First brake pad replace ?
 

Hi,

First time going to replace the pads on my 89 Cab. Looks like a simple job but there are no retaing clips. I'm guessing they are missing or I missing something.

Also how do I attach the new wear sensor as I think these pads have the older style.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503157496.JPG

See image below.
You may need to spread the calipers to insert the new pads.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503158650.jpg

Went real simple and new wear sensors easy to connect. Still he only question is am I missing the retaing clips or do some not use them?

The clip is there. It is tucked under the pin.

When I pulled out the pins there was nothing that fell off. Like a clip?

No, there is no retaining pin/s like on a toyota. What you see is the complete OEM assembly, The pin/s itself has a retainer compression ring on the head. You really should use new pins at a minimum but you can also widen the retainer ring so it will fit tighter. If nothing else, clean with a wire wheel all the contact points of the assembly to help the pads move without binding.

Consider flushing the fluids to new as they only last 2 years then becomes corrosive

thanks for the info - I will order some new pins

David,
I disagree with Draco's binary views.

The pins are safely reusable unless damaged. If they were truly single use items, new ones would be supplied with the pads wouldn't they? Plus no workshop manual I have ever seen suggests they are single use either.

Brake fluid doesn't "only last 2 years before coming corrosive". Porsche recommend replacing brake fluid at 2 yearly intervals primarily to ensure a safely high boiling point for the fluid is maintained.


A narrow pin punch will make removing and reinstalling the pad locating pins easy.

A set of multigrips will allow you to squeeze the top corner pad backing plate back against the caliper housing to make the piston retract to give you room to fit new (thicker) pads. You may have to crack open the bleed nipple a little to do this.

This will also allow you to easily remove the old pads as there is probably a lip on the edge of the disc that will stop you simply sliding them out. If this lip is large, your rotors probably need replacing too as they will be worn beyond minimum width spec.

Good luck!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503184858.jpg

That "pushing in with a screwdriver" bit makes installing the pins much easier as well.

Also, remember to keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, if it is close to full before you start, it can overflow as you push the pistons back in the calipers. May want to remove some (dollar store turkey baster works great and is cheap).

Also when you retract the pistons, do them one at a time, and only push them back in barely enough to get the new pad to squeeze in. If you get them too far in, it can take a while before they get to their proper resting potion with the pad right next to the caliper. Makes for some really scary stops until they settles in position.

There's nothing quite like having the right tool for the job

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/punches/12-piece-punch-and-chisel-set-66337.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-drilling-hammer-98258.html

http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/no...if_serious.jpg

If a 4 lb hammer is the "right tool for the job" of tapping out those pins, maybe you shouldn't own a 911.

Surely you're joking aren't you?:eek:

Absolutely serious.
Try it sometime.
You will realize your little nail hammer is the wrong tool.