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Hi Rutager,

you can download the stock tune from the yahoo bitzracing group,
you should be able to open it (i've gotten compatibility errors before, but i could work around it changing the file in notepad, i deleted one line on the top regarding the version of the software...then it will open)

yes, the software will give you wideband readings, in voltage, so you should be around 2,5V when running around stoich. There's a view with gauges, and one of them is the wideband gauge.

if you can't find it, shoot me an email demanjan at hotmail dot com and i will email you the stock file which i altered.

cheers, Jan
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #181 (permalink)
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i deleted these two lines from the stock file:

< bibliography author="MegaTune 2.25" writeDate="2010-06-07T07:33:57-04:00" />
< versionInfo fileFormat="4.0" nPages="1" signature="" / >

then i could get it to open in the recent tunerstudio software

a little 'maybe' tip is to exclude the O2 correction from the parameters from now, that way you can forget about the wideband being a factor in your troubleshooting:
settings - enrichments - EGO step and EGO limit both 0 .
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #182 (permalink)
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Thanks Wrecka,

Probably a week or two out from getting the distributor back, then I'll check everything out.

Rutager
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Rutager West

1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 10-13-2017, 02:09 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #183 (permalink)
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While in a holding pattern until the distributor comes back, I though I would hook up the computer and download the factory tune and compare it with what it is supposed to be and make sure I'm good there, well, what I thought was a serial port on my old laptop was a VGA!

Good news is I can order the adapter and have it by the time the distributor gets back.

I ordered the one from DIYAutotune as recommended by a poster a few pages back.
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Rutager West

1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 10-14-2017, 05:12 PM
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Did you every consider Weber or PMO carbs and be driving again sooner?
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Matt Mariani, Philly Pa
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:01 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #185 (permalink)
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Hi fixer,

I don't think the issue is the intake, the Bitz kit has a tune that is supplied with it that seems like every story I've read has been successful. I am pretty sure that my problem is either ignition or false air and not related to my fuel delivery.

No offense, but I don't think that carbs are even close to a guarantee of trouble free running. Jets and air balancing can be problematic as well. Not to mention I just spent over $2,000 dollars on this fuel system and carbs would be more than that on top of the money spent. I need to work through this problem.

Best,
Rutager
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Rutager West

1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 10-15-2017, 09:37 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #186 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwest View Post
Hi fixer,

I don't think the issue is the intake, the Bitz kit has a tune that is supplied with it that seems like every story I've read has been successful. I am pretty sure that my problem is either ignition or false air and not related to my fuel delivery.

No offense, but I don't think that carbs are even close to a guarantee of trouble free running. Jets and air balancing can be problematic as well. Not to mention I just spent over $2,000 dollars on this fuel system and carbs would be more than that on top of the money spent. I need to work through this problem.

Best,
Rutager

Rutager,

I wasn't trying to irritate you I'm curious why people don't just go with good carbs and be done. High end nothing bests carbs imo. Webers can sputter and cough off idle so if you drive in traffic a lot it's not for everyone.

Good luck buddy, hope you're driving again soon.
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Matt Mariani, Philly Pa
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1978 Super Carrera Coupe 'Foxy Brown' Mocha/Cork
1969 911E targa Crystal Blue / Black
1968 SWB 912 "Stinger 912R 1677 lbs
Old 10-15-2017, 11:16 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #187 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixer View Post
Rutager,

I wasn't trying to irritate you I'm curious why people don't just go with good carbs and be done. High end nothing bests carbs imo. Webers can sputter and cough off idle so if you drive in traffic a lot it's not for everyone.

Good luck buddy, hope you're driving again soon.
If that were the case every competitive driver/team would be running carbs.

They are cool and look appropriate on carb era 911's, or a backdated model.

FI does not sputter and cough.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixer View Post
Rutager,

I wasn't trying to irritate you I'm curious why people don't just go with good carbs and be done. High end nothing bests carbs imo. Webers can sputter and cough off idle so if you drive in traffic a lot it's not for everyone.

Good luck buddy, hope you're driving again soon.
Hi Matt,

We're all good here, I didn't take your post in a negative spirit at all. Been a long time since I've had carbs and was running CIS previously. I've read a lot of threads over the years and in no way take my decision as based on any science or enough real world experience to be have the right answer for everyone.

So from my "research" it seems carbs are awesome when at their sweet point, but gas mileage can be poor and they aren't as happy across a wide spectrum of temps and rpms. I strictly street drive and fairly conservatively at that. I also regularly take long road trips.

My reading on the EFI, Bitz in particular was that it performed smoothly from idle to redline, starts great and returns very good mpg. My research also seemed to point to good running with the included program.

Thanks for the good luck wishes, been a frustrating time.
Rutager
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:21 PM
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Hi Rutager. Wish I could help, but you are way out of my league. Just supporting you in your quest. Q
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:23 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #190 (permalink)
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Hi Queen,

You flatter me!

In reality, nothing too complicated in installing the system lots of instructions and the help of others who have done it before me.

Oh, Queen, this is so up your alley- frustrating hard to solve issues except for I only have one Porsche to fix.

Best,
Rutager
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:47 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #191 (permalink)
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Okay everyone, got my USB to serial port adapter and think I managed to get it connected to the Megasquirt.

When I did, it showed the following screen that says what is on Tunerstudio and programmed into the Megasquirt are different. Big issue I saw is that the O2 is listed as narrow and I'm using the LC-2? He told me he made the necessary changes before shipping, now I'm wondering if it didn't take?

If anyone knows what a 2.7 tune should be, could you take a look and advise?

Thanks

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Old 10-19-2017, 03:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #192 (permalink)
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Go with Tony's base map and change the O2 to Wideband.
It should get you up and running.
There are multiple maps posted in the bitzracing yahoo forums file section.
I have a map or 2 for my car in there.
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Old 10-19-2017, 04:49 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #193 (permalink)
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Don't click any buttons.

1. Take notes on any differences between the TS settings (left side) and controller settings (right side. Any differences are ones that you made in TS that have not been written to the ECU.

2. use the "Use Controller settings". Then select "Save Tune As" This will be your initial default tune as delivered from Tony.
Then you can go about making changes.

Next I would calibrate the WBO2 sensor. There is a drop down menu for O2 sensor calibration. Select LC-1 default. The LC1 and LC2 have the same settings. This will give you the correct reading in TS while driving.

Then you can start driving and tuning the car.

The "narrow band" setting is for EGO correction. Right now you should set this to "disable" until the car is tuned. Then turn it back on at "single wideband". EGO correction can mess up your tuning. The automatic tuning algorithm can overtake your manual changes causing you go tune in circles. I also disable acceleration enrichment until the base map is complete.
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Last edited by jpnovak; 10-19-2017 at 05:15 PM..
Old 10-19-2017, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmy2 View Post
Go with Tony's base map and change the O2 to Wideband.
It should get you up and running.
There are multiple maps posted in the bitzracing yahoo forums file section.
I have a map or 2 for my car in there.
Dennis,

So the settings that are in the controller look good with exception of the O2?

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:24 PM
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Jamie,

The TS tune was one that I clicked on at the main menu; MS1 BG 3.0. I haven't entered any data myself.

Any chance having the O2 set to narrow when it was connected to the LC-2 was causing all the backfiring?

The distributor should be at the rebuilder now, maybe it was basically fine? Although the vacuum retard didn't work- did when I sent it in the first time.

Thanks for the help- I won't enter any data unless I know what I'm doing!
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:31 PM
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Here's the screen shot of the tune I clicked on to the left with dot next to it:

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Old 10-19-2017, 05:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #197 (permalink)
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Let's get some terminology straightened out.

You opened a "project" . This decodes as BG = Bowling and Grippo (creators of MS) MS1 - Megasquirt 1 processor 3.0 V3.0 board. There are default values loaded into TS when your PC connects to MS for the first time. These may be different than the "tune" file that is programmed into the ECU.

When TS opens a project it will load the last file that was used. In your PC folder this will be called "currenttune.msq". IF this was the first time you connected the current tune was default values.

When TS connects to the ECU will open a comparison screen which you found. This compares the differences in the "currenttune.msq" running in the virtual window of TS and the tune values that are currently loaded and running on the ECU. This is a good way to keep track of any offline changes made and give you a decision point to keep them or not. If you click "use TS settings" on this screen it will burn these values to the ECU and they will not become the currently operating controller settings. In other words, be careful here until you become familiar with the system or you risk to overwrite the tune values.

It is good habit to use the "save as" function often and create many different files. This way you always have a backup in the event that you screw something up {operator error).

Looking at the values in the screen I think you are going to be running eye-watering rich and that would certainly cause some serious backfires. The lower rows have some very high VE values in the table.

Don't sweat it. Just start tuning. Tune idle first and target "lean best lowest MAP" reading. This means as you go from lean to rich you will see the MAP value decrease. It will reach a point where it flattens out and goes no lower. Run as lean as you can on this plateau and you will have a very stable idle. Don't focus so much on AFR readings. Lowest MAP will likely be 13.3-13.5 depending on compression and individual engine dynamics.

btw, tuning here means manually adjusting the VE table to add/subtract fuel depending if you are lean/rich.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #198 (permalink)
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What Timmy2 stated. Don't use TunerStudio's tune. Go with the Megasquirt settings which is the map that Tony provides to get you started. The O2 settings should be changed to reflect Wideband
Old 10-19-2017, 05:56 PM
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Hi Rutager,

the O2 setting narrow/wide is probably not the culprit of your problems...it only influences the fueling by 5% at the most.

Did Tony give a 2.7 base map? or did he just ship it with the 3.0L map? Maybe lookup in the yahoo community for 2.7 files...

Doublecheck the settings - 'constants' in tunerstudio, make sure that they are correct for your car.
required fuel should be 10.6, that's the main one (11.6 for 3 liters).
i'll sum up the rest in my system:
ms 5.8
inj op time 1.0
batt volt corr 0.2
PWM curr 100
PWM time 25.5
fast idle 62.7
baro off
control algor speed density
squirts 2
inj simultaneous
four stroke
6
port
6
250kpa
even fire
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:23 PM
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