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One thing I'm not real clear on is the software part of the system. What do I need to download or purchase as far as software?

I got my shoes tied this morning, but barely! Doing stuff on computers isn't a strong suite of mine- I usually get it to work, but not without frustration and never the same way twice.

What about auto tune software, or is it part of the main software package?

Thanks,
Rutager
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Rutager West

1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 08-25-2017, 02:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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It's not a part of the software. The Bitz kit comes with a good basic setting but you'll need TunerStudio the tune the engine. Download is 60$ I think. You set the constants and specify your Wideband brand, and press Autotune. Done.
Old 08-25-2017, 02:41 AM
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Yeah, it should be loaded with a basic, rough tune for your engine.

If you have all the electrical sorted, it should run just fine once you hit the key
Old 08-25-2017, 06:02 AM
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Download TunerStudio for your computer, pay for the upgrade, and immediately save the tune from the ECU into your TunerStudio by connecting your laptop to the ECU.

There's baud rates and port configurations you will have to setup before your laptop will interface with the MS box.

When you're "offline" (laptop not connected to the ECU), you can look through all the parameters to get a feel of what you'll be able to adjust.

Remember, anything you change "offline" will automatically be saved on the tuning software.

If you connect the computer to the ECU, and there have been changes, it'll ask you if you want to save the new changes (and burn to ECU) **or** leave the old settings that werr previously burned into the ECU.

Please feel free to ask any questions on this stuff, I love helping out (if I'm not super busy of course).

Last edited by Tippy; 08-25-2017 at 06:10 AM..
Old 08-25-2017, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
Download TunerStudio for your computer, pay for the upgrade, and immediately save the tune from the ECU into your TunerStudio by connecting your laptop to the ECU.

There's baud rates and port configurations you will have to setup before your laptop will interface with the MS box.

When you're "offline" (laptop not connected to the ECU), you can look through all the parameters to get a feel of what you'll be able to adjust.

Remember, anything you change "offline" will automatically be saved on the tuning software.

If you connect the computer to the ECU, and there have been changes, it'll ask you if you want to save the new changes (and burn to ECU) **or** leave the old settings that werr previously burned into the ECU.

Please feel free to ask any questions on this stuff, I love helping out (if I'm not super busy of course).
Good info Tippy,

Any computer preferences? I have an old XP Sony Vaio that I don't connect to the Internet and just use for the factory manual and PET in the garage. Would it be a good one to use, or my main laptop is a Windows 8 equipped one?

Rutager
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1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 08-26-2017, 04:03 PM
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Back at it a little today and wanted to test my AAR both because it is needed in the EFI set up too and curious if it caused my real lean condition before. The heater element tested 17 ohms and at room temp it was about a third open; freezer for a couple hours saw half moon and hooking twelve volts up to it had a complete closing in a few minutes.




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Old 08-26-2017, 04:07 PM
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Modified my air metering unit- basically you just remove fuel distributor, plate and attach a block off plate supplied with the kit- I took it a step farther and removed the swing arm, weighted plate and adjustment bridge parts. For you counting at home, it actually weighed over a pound- probably due to the chunk of brass that is the counterweight. Removing is a hassle as you need to remove the snaprings and tap out the pivot, then reinstall the pivot so there isn't unfiltered air. You also need to put a couple nuts and bolts where the bridge piece hooked up for the same reason.

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Old 08-26-2017, 04:14 PM
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I also drove out the injector sleeves; came out real easy as apparently my peening last spring wasn't very deep and I didn't need to grind, just drove out from behind- a Snap-on 4mm Allen socket fit the recess nicely and the Allen part kept it from falling out. Tap, tap and they were out.

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Old 08-26-2017, 04:17 PM
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Got a little retentive and put all the little parts in a divided container- makes me look and feel professional; should help the work go easier too!

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Old 08-26-2017, 04:19 PM
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Staying organized always makes work easier (no wasted time looking for things).

Question about the Bitz EFI kit: You mention needing the AAR. Does the Bitz kit use that to actively control idle speed? Or does the AAR get reconnected in the original fashion and just add extra air when cold?
Old 08-26-2017, 09:06 PM
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Don't worry about good laptops, it's not a RAM hog to tune.

You just either need a serial connector on your laptop or an USB to serial adapter.

DIYAutotune sells a good USB to serial adapter that should work guaranteed and nor cause connection losses like others.
Old 08-26-2017, 09:32 PM
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AAR is used for cold start only just like original.
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Euro 1978 SC Targa, SSI's, Dansk 2/1, Bitz kit EFI.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanaudical View Post
Staying organized always makes work easier (no wasted time looking for things).

Question about the Bitz EFI kit: You mention needing the AAR. Does the Bitz kit use that to actively control idle speed? Or does the AAR get reconnected in the original fashion and just add extra air when cold?
Like Dennis said, it just adds air at cold start, it is in no way connected to the computer, just operates from its heater and ambient temps.

I asked Tony from Bitz and he said that you could also use an AAR from different vehicles as well.
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Old 08-27-2017, 01:54 AM
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Indeed, you don't need to use the Porsche AAR. Mine has an IACV from a Jeep Cherokee.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rwest View Post
Like Dennis said, it just adds air at cold start, it is in no way connected to the computer, just operates from its heater and ambient temps.

I asked Tony from Bitz and he said that you could also use an AAR from different vehicles as well.
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Old 08-27-2017, 03:10 AM
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Looking for vacuum leaks tonight. I bought some rubber plugs that really didn't seal up that well and my tub wasn't big enough, but I was able to get the metered section of the airbox and the rubber intake boots under water and saw no bubbles. So my sudden lean condition wasn't from a blown air box.




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1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 08-28-2017, 04:08 PM
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Got Tuner Studio on my old laptop with a serial port! Yes, feeling good about the software side now.
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:16 PM
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Making very slow progress, like most of us, other obligations get in the way- work, kitchen remodel and dog sitting are taking up some time.

I cut a blank off plate out of aluminum for the cold start valve and put in the injector adapters after cleaning out the ports.



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1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown
Old 09-03-2017, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwest View Post
Hi Wiggle,

Thanks for the offer, I have my bad air box too, but I never really thought about the Carrera manifold, remember vaguely a mention of it, I'll look into it.


Best,
Rutager
You can bolt up a carrera airbox, I have one on a supercharged car, on a 83 track car and another on Gretchem ,my 78 problem child. Two megasquirts and an adaptronic.


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Old 09-04-2017, 12:37 AM
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John,

Your engine is a work of art!

I did do a couple quick searches and determined that the Carrera intake would add $800 plus to my conversion and decided that it was money I didn't want to spend at this point.

Rutager
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Old 09-04-2017, 05:54 AM
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Plan A, B, C, D? Where are we at on the O2 sensor bung mounting? If you remember, the car was running so bad that I wasn't going to risk driving it to a muffler shop, I can't weld, don't know anyone who does, so I was going to hire a mobile welder.

Well, I was trying to figure out the best way to set it up for the welder going through ideas in my head while walking a dog. Decided that drilling the hole and then holding the bung in place with a hose clamp so the welder could weld without it falling out of place- one thought led to another; "I wonder if anyone makes a clamp on bung?" Got home hit the Google and sure enough AEM makes them and the reviews looked promising.

What the heck, if I want to weld a bung later, just remove the clamp one and have a regular one welded. This gets me over the problem right now for about $40.

Here we are, I did it tonight and the fun level was pretty low, not terrible just sucky enough to make you earn it. The gasket is finicky and getting the nuts started was a little frustrating until I grabbed a slip joint plier and squeezed it enough to get the nuts started. Probably an hour job.




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Old 09-07-2017, 04:34 PM
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