Anyone have tips for threading tough fasteners?

autojack · 08-19-2017, 05:44 PM

I'm in the process of replacing my front AC condenser as part of a comprehensive upgrade to the whole system. This afternoon I spent 2+ hours under the car trying to get the new condenser and stone guard back in place. Despite the excellent instructions from Griffiths, I just can't thread the RH side bolt that is closer to the rear of the car. The hole is right up against the front torsion bar bracket thing, so I can't get a socket or my fingers on it. The only way I can turn it is with an open-ended wrench, and no matter what I try in terms of applying upward pressure on it, it won't thread.

The bolt isn't stripped, and I've got the holes in the stone guard and condenser brackets lined up as well as I can (I adjusted these 4-5 times), but no joy. I've had a similar problem with the bolts for the skid plate that covers the front cross member and fuel pump. Threading a bolt through two brackets and into a hole under the car appears to be partly an art form.

Anyone got any general tips for this type of thing? I was ready to push the car into the sea by the time I gave up.

SCadaddle · 08-19-2017, 05:56 PM

How big is the bolt? Can you slip a piece of rubber fuel line or heater hose over the bolt head then use that as your tool to get it started? How about a magnet tool?

Ayles · 08-19-2017, 06:03 PM

Maybe the first thread is banged up after all the attempts. Can you run a chaser through to clean things up?

sixbanger · 08-19-2017, 06:08 PM

What ever you do don't use a wrench until you tighten it all the way by hand first as far as possible.

autojack · 08-19-2017, 06:50 PM

It's a 10mm bolt. The fuel line idea is pretty clever, MAYBE that would help. But I can't get a socket onto it, so there still might not be enough clearance. Magnet tool, I think I still need some upward pressure to get the threads to catch. Not sure that will help. I was trying to press up on the bolt head with a pin punch and then turn it with the wrench. It seems to be started in the hole, but just wouldn't catch. Maybe I need to tweak the bracket positions again.

A better design on Porsche's part would have been separate holes for the condenser and stone guard.

wayne robson · wayne robson's Garage

Yes it can be a problem if the stone guard has been bent or beet up a little
over the years.I had this same problem a year ago, and what i did
was re drilled the existing holes out by another 1/16 inch.
I forgot the size but say they are 5/16 drill out to 3/8,
then it will go straight up, by using my jack with a piece of wood
while putting in the bolts.

sugarwood · sugarwood's Garage

Are you talking about this thing?
This is a nightmare to replace.
I think I had to lower the car onto the wheels and then thread and tighten.
I can't even remember the procedure anymore.

autojack · 08-19-2017, 07:46 PM

Thanks, I hadn't thought of enlarging the holes any. If I really get stuck I may do that. I did spend some time bending the stone guard back into shape, before that none of the holes lined up well and the guard was hanging up on the crash bar.

autojack · 08-19-2017, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Are you talking about this thing?
This is a nightmare to replace.
I think I had to lower the car onto the wheels and then thread and tighten.
I can't even remember the procedure anymore.

That's the skid plate I was referring to, but not what I'm doing right now. Yes you do have to put the car on the ground to do those allen bolts that go through the sway bar bracket. Even then, getting the holes lined up is an epic pain in the ass.

HaroldMHedge · HaroldMHedge's Garage

Your A/C crash bar may be bent and causing the problem. This bar has an arch across the front. Most used bars that I've seen are straight from banging into something.

Peter M · 08-19-2017, 10:00 PM

[QUOTE=autojack;9706840] I've got the holes in the stone guard and condenser brackets lined up as well as I can (I adjusted these 4-5 times), but no joy. QUOTE]

Jack,
Suggest that you loosen the bolts at the other end of the condenser and guard so it allows you a little movement at the end you are trying to install to help line up the hole.

If you put one or two 10mm nuts in the end of your 10mm socket (3/8'' drive size otherwise the socket will be to big and clumsy to fit in the small space), this will "pack" the head the 10mm bolt you are trying to install "out" so there is plenty length protruding to help get it started in the hole. You may need to tape or use a bit of mastic or even Bluetac to hold it all together until you can line it up with the hole and apply pressure and turn at the same time.

Alternative substitute a M6 screw and washer for the bolt so you an use a screwdriver or hex wretch. You could also cut a slot in the head of the bolt with a hacksaw to allow a plain screwdriver to be used to get it started too.

Mike Andrew · 08-20-2017, 05:31 AM

+1 on opening the holes to provide more clearance. It worked for me as I was as frustrated as you are. Only time in 16 years of ownership that I have thrown a wrench and walked away.
Also like the idea of loading a socket, maybe even a 1/4" drive as they seem a bit thinner walled or cutting a slot.

sugarwood · sugarwood's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by autojack

That's the skid plate I was referring to, but not what I'm doing right now. Yes you do have to put the car on the ground to do those allen bolts that go through the sway bar bracket. Even then, getting the holes lined up is an epic pain in the ass.

Glad I'm not the only one.
I remember it took me like 45 mins to get this thing back on.
I found my old thread, for future reference.
Steering rack cover plate. Best way to remove/replace ?

Snitzler · 08-20-2017, 11:46 AM

I second the idea about loading a socket with some nuts and stuff so that the nut just sticks out of the socket. I ended up using a spot of crazy glue to hold everything in place while fiddling to get the nut started. I learned this when changing my engine mounts.

autojack · 08-27-2017, 09:17 PM

I cut a slot in the bolt head, used a flathead screwdriver to bend the one finicky bracket a little more into position, and finally got the condenser mounted. It seems the bolt hole was at an angle, so that was making things harder. Anyway, it's done now. Thanks for the tip on cutting a slot in the bolt, I've done that to take them out, but never thought of it to put a difficult one in.

Ian Comerford · Ian Comerford's Garage

If you are sure both threads are ok then I usually try to start a difficult thread by reversing it to find the start of the thread. By this I mean turning the bolt anti clockwise until I feel or hear a click. This means that the thread on the bolt and the assembly and adjacent to one another. Once you have the click turn it clockwise.