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Dave O
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brookeville, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Monson View Post
Worth more than that. Go dig around the classifieds a bit. I'm talking a couple grand when a stock decklid is a couple hundred. If using aftermarket FG, he could possibly buy his decklid, hood and fenders for that he can sell it for.
This one was top dollar. I agree that $2k is not out of line for a factory tail.

Carrera 3.0 / Weissach OEM tail FS
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1977 911 Carrera 3.0 Targa (Minerva Blue)
1987 VW Vanagon Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25
Old 08-29-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by peon77 View Post
Congrats on the car it looks like a great starting point!

6/74 is very early for a 1975 what is the VIN?
Thanks - I'm excited to have some fun with it!

The vin is a number under 25... actually under 20... actually under... we'll you get the idea. Once I get all of the paperwork, I'll let you know for sure, but it is seems low! That's what made me wonder if it could be a Carrera. Though the bodywork (rear arches) shows it isn't but it has all of the spoilers and three spoke turbo wheel that came with a Carrera spec. Must have been well specced in the day.

Thanks for admiring my tail guys I'm amazed at what great condition it's in compared to the rest of the paint. The black plastic is still soft and very black!

Also thanks for giving me an idea of its worth. I'm not in this to make money, but it's nice not to be ripped off either.

I'll grab a few more pics this weekend when I've done some of my 'honey-do' list. I try to balance out a day working on the house / with the family to a good morning or so on the car.

Any recommendations anyone as to what I should put on the floor pan once I've scraped off the tar and delt with the watery rust marks? I'm thinking of things like POR 15, rustolium, epoxy etc.
I've used different things over the years but nothing in the past 3yrs. Is anything new or preferred?

Thanks for the kind comments Wiggle_puppy. Once I get the floor painted and rust stable, I'll be looking into some sort of sound insulation.

I'm also surprised that the floor seems much stiffer than my SWB cars. I don't remember if the ribbing is different, if the floor metal is thicker, or just that this one isn't rotten!

Thanks all!

Last edited by Munky King; 08-29-2017 at 05:44 PM..
Old 08-29-2017, 05:26 PM
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Eng-o-neer
 
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Since it's a '75, and needn't pass smog in California (possibly anywhere?)...seems like a good candidate for a hopped up motor to me.

For your floors, clean up all rust and coat the bare metal in a two-part epoxy primer. I've read that POR15 can become brittle such that even though it doesn't "fail" moisture can get behind...Really, for an interior in a car that doesn't leak...prolly anything is fine. For sound deadening, well...:

Interior sound deadening, noise reduction, and thermal insulation
Old 08-29-2017, 06:05 PM
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Thanks for the advice and great link Tremelune.
That will give me some great reading today
Old 08-30-2017, 03:26 AM
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Well after spending most of yesterday and today, building a deck by the lake for Mrs Munky, I managed to steal a couple of hours on the '75.

Still working on pulling up the tar on the floor to see exactly what I've got myself into...

I managed to get most of the drivers side cleaned up, then the good lady had to run to the shops for some salad... so I was lucky enough to get a good way ahead on the passenger side.
I've been spraying the pedal box and foot support with oil every time I go near it. I'm hoping that's going to give me some hope of painless extraction!

I've only found one hole so far, that someone in the past drilled and now has light surface rust around it. Two second job with the welder and a piece of copper.

I've been bumbling around for engine options too. Going to speak to a Porsche mechanic tonight to see what he thinks of my plans!

Last edited by Munky King; 09-02-2017 at 03:58 PM..
Old 09-02-2017, 03:53 PM
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Rear of drivers side didn't look to bad either.
One I get the floor cleaned up, the rear will be the next area for attention.
Old 09-02-2017, 04:00 PM
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Not as much done as I would have liked this Labor Day holiday. Too long on the honey do list. I have one part of the honey do left and I should be good for the Autumn.
I did manage to get just a little more done.
I managed to disconnect the fuel tank (still need to jack it up to break the seal), started worrying about the wiring and got the passenger side floor cleaned up.
Just the dash, back seat and wall area, oh and the pedal box to remove and then it'll be time to get the grinder and welder out!
Old 09-04-2017, 03:02 PM
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So I had half a morning to play on the car today, so I thought I would pull the pedal box.

Every time I've passed the car, I've been tapping the main two bolts and spraying them with PB blaster. I've also given it a good rub with a wire brush, but as you might guess, I managed to break both bolts

I did think about heating it, but there was a good amount of PB residue and under the dash isn't a great place to have a mini fire...

Then I started on the two at the back. I remember pulling a friends pedal box years ago on his '82, but my back bolts seemed to be really corroded in. As I tried polishing around them (to get rid of the rust) I realized that the prior owner must have been some sort of safety freak as it looked like he had gone and welded them in.



Dang. I thought I was going to have to cut the rotten things off.
I'll save that until next time, I thought as I had to carry on with the honey do list.

This afternoon, I was reading Wayne's 101 book and realized that they are welded from the factory and I need to take the bolt out from the front on early models! DOH!!!

I should have read his book earlier!

Anyone else had the front two bolts shear? Is there an easy obvious solution that doesn't involve drilling big holes in the floor?

Thanks!
Old 09-24-2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky King View Post

Anyone else had the front two bolts shear? Is there an easy obvious solution that doesn't involve drilling big holes in the floor?

Thanks!
They probably wont sheer off. I would soak the outside nuts if you see any rust around that area. Just jack up the front of the car, remove the heavy skid plate that protects the steering rack and you can easy remove the two nuts that hold the pedal box in from the outside of the car.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:41 PM
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Thanks. That must be the way to go as it's what Wayne's book suggests as well.
I really meant the best way of replacing the two bolts I sheared closest to the drivers feet.
Am I going to have to drill and tap? Or are they welded in a captured piece of metal work?
Thanks and sorry for not being specific!
Old 09-24-2017, 04:56 PM
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These bad boys
Old 09-24-2017, 04:59 PM
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Had a little time to play with CAD yesterday.
Thought I would play with some ideas for a gear shift knob.

Still a little way to go, (I think the numbers need a little more work) but the idea will be to fill the 'R' hole with an accent color from the interior.
Old 09-28-2017, 03:36 AM
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Ah I missed the sheared off bolts the first go round. Since it isn't a stock restore I would just drill them puppies out and use rivnuts on the floor. The shifter looks unique and interesting.
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Old 09-28-2017, 05:01 AM
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Thanks for the great advice Duane.

However good or bad the gear stick turns out, it won't be as epic as your rear end!!!
You really are making an excellent one of a kind mid-year!
Old 09-28-2017, 06:17 PM
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Had another 10mins on the CAD at lunch today.
Got this finished up...
Hope to get some time on the car this weekend!
Old 09-29-2017, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Munky King View Post
Had another 10mins on the CAD at lunch today.
Got this finished up...
Hope to get some time on the car this weekend!
Are the gear numbers and reverse R going to be raised? Is the voided area going to be left hollow or filled in somehow?
Old 09-29-2017, 07:08 PM
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:24 PM
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Liking the prison knob.
Unlikely to get me into trouble on my mid year though, as the engine hasn't been in the car for over 15 years!

Nathan, the numbers are raised by about 1mm (which I'm sure I will regret not doing cutouts) and I was thinking of adding colored resin to the 'R' tube in a color to match the interior. The interior part will be hollow. The whole thing will be stainless so should be strong enough.

My current shift knob is held on by a screw passing through and into the rod of the shifter, so doing the same on this. I'm just playing about as anything that can do to push this project forward is a plus!
Old 09-30-2017, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Munky King View Post
Liking the prison knob.
Unlikely to get me into trouble on my mid year though, as the engine hasn't been in the car for over 15 years!

Nathan, the numbers are raised by about 1mm (which I'm sure I will regret not doing cutouts) and I was thinking of adding colored resin to the 'R' tube in a color to match the interior. The interior part will be hollow. The whole thing will be stainless so should be strong enough.

My current shift knob is held on by a screw passing through and into the rod of the shifter, so doing the same on this. I'm just playing about as anything that can do to push this project forward is a plus!
Looks great my concern is the comfortability and possible danger of cutting your hand on the raised numbers. To make them look nice and crisp I think they will be inherently a little sharp.
Old 09-30-2017, 08:42 AM
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You could be right... Dang!
I'll change it to inverted and fill it with something. Good point and catch!
Thanks!

Managed to clean out the front today.

I also started to look at getting to the front of the pedal cluster.
Can anyone help please!
If I undo this bolt, will the antiroll bar shoot down?

I'm not 100% sure if it will and can't see it very clearly.
I'm guessing the back of the pedal box next to the brake master cylinder is behind this plate.

Thanks for any advice
Old 09-30-2017, 03:23 PM
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