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I'd go 21mm/30mm with Tarett adjustable anti-roll bars front and rear.......22/28 will understeer...so will 21/27.
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First 911 Suspension Configuration
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Per the chart, stiffness increased by using a 22mm front bar will be an 83.8% increase followed by a rear bar size of 28mm which is an increase of 85.3%. Wouldn't that be considered being balanced if the stiffness in increased by a close ratio relating to front and rear? 22mm/28mm = 83.8%/85.3% Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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With the torsion and anti-roll bars I recommended, you will have a car that be setup to be neutral or have understeer or oversteer. Just get some nice custom valved Bilstein strut inserts and shocks and you will be ready for autocrossing or the big track. |
First 911 Suspension Configuration
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Ok thanks for the info. I will be the first to admit I am still learning and way behind the curve, ha! No pun intended. This is the first I have heard about the understeer tendencies on a factory set-up. Tendency well noted. Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I think Winders and are are the two biggest proponents of messing with the factory balance on this board. I too like going way up in rear rate compared to the front. In my experience, going up in front rate also has a much bigger impact on ride quality than rear rate.
At the end of the day, you're not competing for a paycheck so any changes you make are mostly because it's fun to tinker. The cars are completely fine stock with moderately fresh tires and shocks at AX and DEs. I'm not saying they can't be made "better" but everything is a tradeoff. Specifically related to your list: - Hollow TBs are technically lighter but the difference is about the same as having another half gallon of gas in your tank. If it's that important to you, go for it. The cheaper Sway-A-Way bars are pretty great. - The Michelin Pilot Super Sport is a great tire, but it's long in the tooth these days. The new Conti EC Sport is every bit as good for a LOT less money. - Also take some time with your alignment. These cars are pretty darned adjustable and you can change how they handle wildly just with that. Camber is real nice, don't run a lot of rear toe in, and a little toe in up front will keep the car stable on the freeway. Also resist the urge to lower the car, especially on the factory torsions. That'll introduce all kinds of bad stuff that you get to try and chase with other tweaks. Not fun. Good luck and have fun. There's a reason these are such great hobby cars. |
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I have wiped out getting Euromeisters and have purchased NEW Porsche Factory Fuchs 16s 7s and 8s as long as they are currently making them again....fully forged and lightweight. They are amazing to just look at:D.....I will likely go with a set of BS Potenza RE-71Rs for them. As far as torsion bars go....I'm really partial to the hollow bars from Sanders as I've heard great things and figure as long as I'm doing it might as well. Maybe just sniffing corks and label hunting. I know what your saying about lowering ride height...I did it with mine prior to starting some other projects and was very unhappy with the results. I will dial it back in when I complete the shocks and tbars. |
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