Wheel Adpators vs. Spacers

[dwPT]

Hey all,

Want to widen the rear track a bit on an 89 carrera. Thinking of using 21mm wheel adaptors instead of spacers (bolt on to the hub rather than the expense and effort of pulling and then installing longer studs). Any issues with using adaptors. Oh, the wheels are standard Fuchs.

[Joe Bob]

Depends....if you plan on tracking the car, the race tech will fail it....if you use longer studs and spacers, like the turbo, you are OK.

[dwPT]

Not tracking it, for now. Just want to fill out the wheel wells until I get wider wheels.

[Adman]

dwPT... Have you found a good source for purchasing the adapters. I am interested in 21mm H & R adapters. Can you recommend a website for ordering at perhaps a discount?
Matthew

[maxnine11]

i'll suggest a ebsite for ordering.....THE ONE YOUR ARE USING !! look here for spacers http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/por_911M_suspen_main.htm

[Joe Bob]

Pelican has them....

[Adman]

Guys...I have been to the Pelican site. I purchase from them often. I dont see 21mm adapters. The closest I have seen are 1" and are they H&R?
Matthew

[maxnine11]

glad you checked with our host first (you didn't mention that)....if there is something I don't see in the Pelican catalog, OE Porsche part or after market, I just phone Pelican with info and part number and they can usually track it down for me, and throw it in with the rest of my order. give it a try, and good luck! max

[Superman]

I'm using some 21 mm spacers that I heard were supposed to be for a 944. They fit fine. I needed to install longer studs. They are fine for track. Apparently, stock Turbos had 2" spacers!

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by Adman
Guys...I have been to the Pelican site. I purchase from them often. I dont see 21mm adapters. The closest I have seen are 1" and are they H&R?
Matthew

Here's what you need:
Weltmeister Turbo Star Spacers

Space out your wheels without adding heavy wheel spacers. Weltmeister™ engineered Turbo Star spacers reduce wheel inertia to improve suspension response. They are 40% lighter than heavy solid spacers and over 10% lighter than Factory spacers (they also cost 25% to 50% less). Computer tests show Turbo Star spacer design is safe against deformation at greater than 7g cornering load! These strong 6061-T6 aluminum spacers come in three widths and require longer wheel studs. 21mm spacers require 67mm wheel studs; 27mm spacers require 72mm studs; 54mm spacers require 100mm studs listed below.

Weltmeister Turbo Star Spacer (sold per pair, 21mm, requires 67mm studs, not included)
PEL-910651 $109.95

[dwPT]

I'd loved to go the WeltMiester route but those requires longer studs and thus pulling the half-shafts and the old studs. I just want to bolt an adaptor to the hubs and then use the studs on the adaptor (the lazy man's way I know but I don't have the space nor the tools to pull half-shafts and wheel studs). The HRs adaptors are designed to let you do that. All you guys out there using this approach, are there any adverse effects from going this route?

[Joe Bob]

Pulling half shafts......NOPE.....can be done without that, at least on a 911....

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by mikez
Pulling half shafts......NOPE.....can be done without that, at least on a 911....

Yep, all you need is special Porsche tool BFH! Wackety, wack wack. Out goes old studs in goes new 67mm studs.

[dwPT]

On the rear???? The Bently manual diagrams and procedures doesn't show this. How much is the tool??? Any pictures.

[Rot 911]

Here is a pic of special tool BFH:

And here is how you use it (from a previous thread):
Just wanted to express my appreciation to John and offer some additional insights to the rookie wrenches. I completed the wheel stud replacement this past weekend. The first wheel took about 3 hours, the second less than an hour. Let me explain the time difference.
John said to remove the e-brake cable and have a lot of washers handy. Well, here’s what that really means. I removed the wheel, then I tried to remove the e-brake cable. That failed, so I removed the calipers, then the disc. Well, well, look at the end of the e-brake cable and the cotter pin secured nut. Once they were removed, the cable came right out. NO, don’t pull it all the way out, as it has an interesting double hinge mechanism that is hell to reconnect.
Next I began to hammer out the old studs. For some reason I was being gentle with the hammer. After several applications of liquid wrench, a little heating with a torch and more serious beatings, the old studs began to move. Yes, the e-brake hole worked.
Now for the washers. You need to somehow pull the new lugs tight and that is the purpose of the washers. The thread does not go all the way to the head of the lug, so the washers take up the slack. Figuring all of this out, finding substitute for a bunch of washers and realizing that the lugs had notches that should sorta align with the hub, took the extra time.
Again, thanks all. It saved much time and the cost of two rear wheel bearings

[dwPT]

Kurt,

Thanks for the info. One more dumb question: this method still entails removing the disc and the calipers as well, right??? Any need to bleed the brakes as we never touch the bleeder valve.