One stickin bold/bloody knuckles

stealthn · 02-04-2003, 09:18 AM

I'm at my wits end....I've got one bolt on my AC mount (lower rear) that won't come off. The nut is built onto the mount so I can't try it, but I've used every penetrating fluid I have for a week, and heated it several times...no luck.

The space is very tight (rear of engine next to tray mount) and the only thing I can get in there with is a box wrench. My little 9" box wrench is too small to get good leverage with (I think it's a leverage issue), and aside from removing the exhaust and cutting a piece out of the engine tray I can't get to the bolt any other way. Cutting it off isn't a alternative either as nothing is small enough to get in there.

The only other thing I can think of is buying a piece of steel tubing just big enough to go over the box wrench, yet long enough to give me some leverage?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks

Chuck Moreland · 02-04-2003, 09:22 AM

Bob,

Without a picture I can't visualize the space you have to work with. But here's a couple thoughts -

- Drop the engine 5-6 inches. Will this get you better access? It's easy to do

- There are nut splitters available the come in from the side. They tighten down on nut and drive it apart with a wedge.

- If it's just leverage, slip a pipe over the end of your wrench

pwd72s · 09:34 AM

I agree with chuck...the old pipe extension works. Is PB Blaster available in Canada?

stealthn · 02-04-2003, 01:27 PM

Fine here are a couple of pics.
I've looked everywhere for PB Blaster and can't find it so I assume it's not available here.
I don't have a pipe anywhere in the house so I'll have to head to the store

magilla · 02-04-2003, 02:06 PM

If it makes you feel any better, I had a hell of a time with that same thing, and finally gave up. The bracket is still sitting in the car.

slider · 02-04-2003, 02:18 PM

Bob,
I'm trying to remember how I did this - recall there wasn't much space also. In your photo above, this is a nut located below the 4mm measure. I believe this nut holds the bracket that the tape measure is resting on. There was a little more room to remove this nut and flipping the open-end of the wrench back and forth, you should be able to loosen the nut. This way, you don't need to worry about the larger nut.

Joe

Jdub · 02-04-2003, 02:20 PM

Are you sure a Dremel cutting wheel can't get in there? By the way, if you don't own one yet, you will need it. For balljoints anyway.

Good luck. I am sorry you can't get that b#$t*&d out.

John

Superman · 02-04-2003, 03:32 PM

If you're talking about the one that's got the wrench on it in the picture, I think you'll get it off. Every garage needs to have an assortment of lengths and diameters of steel pipe. Put a 3' section of pipe on that tool and you'll be surprized how easy it comes off. I also agree with John. If you do not have a die grinder and compressor, or a Dremel tool, then do yourself a favor and get one. My fasteners all cooperate because they can see the Dremel hanging on the wall.

pjv911 · pjv911's Garage

Put the box end of the wrench on the nut , then take another similar wrench and hook the box end of the extra wrench into the open end . This is an easy trick and will double the length of the wrech giving much more leverage. BTW you should be using a 6 point box wrench on a nut that needs that much torque applied.

Kurt Williams

ZCAT3 · 02-04-2003, 03:43 PM

I can't tell if this applies from the picture, but I was having a tough time getting the passenger side front bolt of the of AC mounting point when getting ready to do a valve adjustment. I had all of the other nuts off but this one. It is in a limited space and would not break fee. My mechanic suggested putting the other nuts back on and trying to take this one off first. Worked like a charm.

gary-o · 02-04-2003, 03:50 PM

Snipe it with another wrench added to your original wrench, just put the boxed end of a second (larger) spanner over the open end of the original wrench and that will give you the results of a boxed end wrench (on the bolt in question) with a handle about double it's original length.
Gary

pwd72s · 02-04-2003, 03:54 PM

I would think a short 6 point socket hooked to a breaker bar would also work. I also strongly advise six point...they simply grip a lot better. And perhaps a biz opportunity here? Seems like the PB Blaster canadian distributorship may be open...

Oldporsche · 02-04-2003, 04:03 PM

Snap-on has some neat crows foot tools. They can go on the end of a 1/4" drive or you can get the 3/8" stuff.

Good luck,
David Duffield

stealthn · 02-04-2003, 04:09 PM

I GOT IT!!!! halleluia........ I just hope I didn't bend any bodywork in the engine bay getting it off.
I picked up a piece of steel pipe and stupid me didn't measure the open end of the wrench to see if it would fit, and it didn't. At this point I had a tear in my eye...what could go wrong now. I took a break and read about Dickster getting his car swiped, so now I quit feeling sorry for myself and went back at it.
I didn't want to put the open end of the wrench on the nut because the bolt was actually "squishing" the corners when I tried it before, but this time I said "I don't care if it strips and put my 3' pipe on the wrench and went for it. CRACK, I didn't know what gave, but when I took everything off it was the bolt

To all who replied, thanks my patience were wearing thin.
I tried putting the other bolts back in but because of the torque I was putting on the mount it twisted so none of the other bolts would go back in. Only when they were all off could I put them back in then tighten them.

I have no idea what the proper tool to get at this is suppose to be, but everything is in the way.

Next time, and for anyone trying to do this, undo this bolt first! Also use a 5 point box wrench as suggested, and or a multi-angled breaker bar.

What a saga, and all this after I got everything back together in the bay, then the right side heater hose came off under the AC.

This repair was a 7 beer (Canadian)