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Verify Quickjack SC lift points

So I have scoured the webs to get a final answer on the recommended lift points for a Quickjack, even the pelican technical article. I came across the standard recommended jack point image but still feel a bit vague and figure this is an item you want to make sure is done right so I decided to reach out to the community. Are these acceptable jacks points where I could leave the car for weeks on end?

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Old 09-13-2017, 07:53 PM
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I would rather have the rubber blocks on the pinch welds. On my SC, the Quickjack frames are inboard of the tires. Also, make sure you have the Quickjack set up with the hoses pointing forward.

Check out this thread: Alternate front inboard lift point

Mark
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:36 AM
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Like Mark says, pinch welds. I also get nervous with the Jenga style stack of pads/pucks you have going on there. Can you limit it to one rubber block?

Also, in the front I use the pinch weld that's on an angle inboard (see thread Mark Posted) and just adjust the block diagonally. I don't have AC so those lines aren't an issue.

Will

Last edited by OldSpool87; 09-14-2017 at 05:22 AM..
Old 09-14-2017, 05:19 AM
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I use the same jack points indicated by the link Mark posted, on the pinch weld. The rear is acceptable. Note; I cut grooves on the hockey pucks that mimic the pinch weld outline and it cradles the pinch really secured. Works great. Good luck.
Old 09-14-2017, 05:23 AM
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I don't use the stacked blocks either, in my case mostly because my driveway is sloped, so if I'm using the QJ on one of the other cars out there, the stacked blocks lean due to the slope.

To get added height (especially to lift our SUVs) I screwed together two 2x12 wooden planks and I use those under the QJ. That gives me an extra 3 inches or so without worrying about the stability of stacked blocks/pucks.

Mark
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:07 AM
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You're fine on the pictured spots

If you lift on the pinch weld you should have slotted blocks
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:07 AM
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I use mine like Mark noted. the included blocks are fine, they are soft enough for the pinch weld to sink in a bit and remain stable. Slide the QJ just inside the tires front and rear, angle the block to match the pinch weld where it runs from the rocker inboard and you are good to go
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:16 PM
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Those are the locations I use on my SC. Also a thing to remember is the car is lifted by four points at the same time so very little pressure on each point.

I wouldn't put a (single point of contact) trolley jack under one corner to lift that wheel off the ground.
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:30 PM
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Thanks for the quick responses. For future reference I am using the the Quickjack with the lines going out the front of the car as suggested by Mark. It sounds like I could use the current position however I have also ordered a set of pinch weld blocks on Amazon that will be here for weekend wrenching. Also I do have the ac lines in there but they are not long for this world as I have already pulled the the ac stuff from the engine and interior. Upwards we go to get those pesky fuel lines out of the car and lower my ridiculously high seat rails.
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenX Porsche View Post
...
Are those spots safe, both structurally and from a balance perspective? namely in the rear ledge under the torsion bar and the flat spot (near a vertical ridge) in the front. If so, those seem to be the easiest places to use with a 5000SLX. I would not use a stack of blocks though, just one.

Bill Verburg seems fine with those spots and that is reassuring...
Old 10-26-2017, 08:31 PM
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The spot below the torsion bar tube should be fine — it is structurally sound.

I’m not super crazy about putting the weight on the floor pan in the bottom picture. It looks like the picture is the front left corner of the floor pan. I would use an 8mm socket and take off those A/C line brackets. Pull the hose back and use a hockey puck or block with a split in it and place it right on the pinch seam. It takes two minutes.
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:01 AM
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Finding good spots on the pinch welds without crushing oil or AC lines seems to be a challenge. My simple 914-6 makes it much easier to find appropriate lifting points on my scissor lift.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:05 AM
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Hey, nice marmot.
 
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Maybe an alternative would be to get a small piece of plywood and put that in between the floor pan and the pad? Maybe 12x12 or 18x18? 1/2” or 3/4” thick? I’ve never tried it so just spitballing the idea.
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:40 PM
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