Chain tensioner install

[dynosoar1]

In addition to my other projects I am currently in the middle of....exhaust swap, suspension refresh and mounts...i am taking on the task of doing the chain tensioners for the quote "piece of mind" factor.

I am very apprehensive about doing it myself as it seems everything is so critical that my four thumbs may mess something up. For guys that have done this yourself have you found it to be as daunting as it seems? Everything is out of the way and really at this point is just removing covers and inserting replacement tensioners and new lines without letting the chain loose. I'm thinking I should put all new ramps at the same time right?

Shops want too much dough for this job, but then again they have the experience doing it. I've rebuilt American engines before and have a dangerous amount of get me in trouble experience. Is this something best left for a pro or should I just do it? Everything else I've done ...turbo tie rod upgrade, valve adjustment, new oil return tubes, removing original exhaust has been relatively easy so far and very rewarding in the get know my car way.

[FL911SC]

dynosoar1,
I installed the oil feed tensioners on my '79 a few years back. Like you I was a bit nervous and apprehensive. Once I finished it, is stood back and said "that wasn't that bad".

Don't forget to put the motor at top dead center on cylinder 1. This should release some pressure off the chains. I used some longer zip ties to hold the chains in place by running the zip tie through the link to hold it tight. If you are changing the guides as well, then this may not work since placement will be a bit more limited.
Put a rag on each side of the bottom motor where the chains go into the case. This will prevent a dropped washer or socket from falling into the crank case, which will ruin your day.

Note that depending on the model engine, you will need some new tensioner pulley arms, or spacers so that the arm sits on the top of the tensioner in the correct place.

Lastly, based on what I a read about doing this job, I had tried to prime the tensioners with oil, but I don't know how much if an affect that really had since a lot of the oil comes back out when you are installing them.

Like any job, be methodical, think first, and it when you are done, you will probably agree that "that wasn't so bad".

This photo shows the new left side tensioner installed along with the new pulley arm.

[BK911]

Now would be a good time to verify/adjust cam timing.
You know, while you're in there.

[dynosoar1]

Originally Posted by FL911SC

dynosoar1,
I installed the oil feed tensioners on my '79 a few years back. Like you I was a bit nervous and apprehensive. Once I finished it, is stood back and said "that wasn't that bad".

Don't forget to put the motor at top dead center on cylinder 1. This should release some pressure off the chains. I used some longer zip ties to hold the chains in place by running the zip tie through the link to hold it tight. If you are changing the guides as well, then this may not work since placement will be a bit more limited.
Put a rag on each side of the bottom motor where the chains go into the case. This will prevent a dropped washer or socket from falling into the crank case, which will ruin your day.

Note that depending on the model engine, you will need some new tensioner pulley arms, or spacers so that the arm sits on the top of the tensioner in the correct place.

Lastly, based on what I a read about doing this job, I had tried to prime the tensioners with oil, but I don't know how much if an affect that really had since a lot of the oil comes back out when you are installing them.

Like any job, be methodical, think first, and it when you are done, you will probably agree that "that wasn't so bad".

This photo shows the new left side tensioner installed along with the new pulley arm.

Thank you! This is for an 83 SC 3.0...its my understanding that I won't need any spacers...is that correct? Also, did you change out chain guides/ramps? Does that add to the difficulty level or is it just a good thing to do while in there?

[Steam Driver]

Don’t fret over this too much. Yes it is very important and you need to proceed with care. However, think about this; for the cam to “jump” timing requires moving a whole chain tooth and since there’s a lot of wrap of the chain around the IMS sprocket this isn’t going to be easy to have happen. So it is a factor for sure, but not as delicate as some would have you think.

As for the ramps, I would replace them “as long as you’re in there.” However I would (as advised above) plug as much as you can with shop towels to keep things out of the sump because the ramps are tapered and somewhat hard to hold onto, particularly the old oily ones! They can”squeeze” out of your fingers easily and end up in the sump. If the engine has a sump plate this isn’t so much of an issue; you can retrieve it. If your hands are too large yourself you can always get your wife or girlfriend to reach in and get it. (Ask me how I know. . . )

After that one I devised a way to run a loop of safety wire through the outboard mounting hole of the upinside ramps. That way you can retrieve it if it does get loose. After the bolt is in place in the inside mounting hole, pull the wire out and finish the installation.

[obscene]

go for it! ziptie works perfectly to hold the chain in place. biggest thing for me was getting the gasket surface clean. I also sprayed copper gasket to help seal things up.

[john walker's workshop]

If you set the engine to #1 TDC, you can remove the tensioners and the cams will not move. Just don't move the crank or pry on the chains and you'll be fine.

[dynosoar1]

Originally Posted by obscene

go for it! ziptie works perfectly to hold the chain in place. biggest thing for me was getting the gasket surface clean. I also sprayed copper gasket to help seal things up.

Awesome photos! Thanks so much to all of you for the input and the photos.....im going to do it myself for sure....seems almost too simple which is what makes me more nervous than anything.....anything else I should be doing...you know..."While I'm in there!"

[obscene]

nope. like you said, the tensioners are the while you're in there job during your exhaust swap.


replacing the ramps is the optional thing. I don't know enough about those to comment. mine looked good so I left them.

[Coastr]

It was the first job I did. Give yourself time, don't rush and you'll be fine. I used a nut/bolt combination to hold tension while the tensioners came out. Photobucket ate my photos though. I copied off someone else.