Wheel Stud replacement...A pictoral..

[RoyB]

I picked up a set of 21mm wheels spacers on Ebay for $25. I ordered 67mm studs from Pelican Parts and decided to install them this evening. Very easy to do. Took all of 20 minutes per side.

I put together a pictorial in my photo album that shows the entire proceedure.



Hope it helps someone.........

http://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/vehicles/porsche_911/

[JonT]

That is a great photo-tuturial! I just went through this process and this would have been great to see 1 week ago

[RoyB]

Thanks for the kind words!

It's amazing how easy this modification was! The only issue is if you are using longer that 67mm studs. And then you might have to grind a little cresent shaped divit out of the back plate that would be next to the E-Brake adjuster. Then you should be able to install and length stud without pulling the hubs.

I understand that if you pull the hubs you will damage the wheel bearings and then must replace them. And that requires a press to install the races.

The real strange thing is the handling that the car now exhibits. Before the spacers were installed I had a bit of "bump steer", now the car seems much more stable...........Could widening the rear wheel track by two inches change the handling this much. Or is it just my imagination?

Later!

[Jesset100]

Slick deck lid prop

[Wil Ferch]

RoyB:

nice write-up... a couple of questions / comments.

- is your photo album missing an "after" shot?
- were you trying to get the effect of an 8" rim with your (presumably) 7" rims?
- are the spacers aluminum?
- how did you re-find the "sweet spot" for the adjusters afterwards? Is it simply a matter of how much the emergency brake lever comes up ? Presume you can re-establish this while still on jackstands, no?

Other areas of your album....
- are you sure you have your H4's cinched down all the way on the bottom? Don't lose those puppies !
- two part epoxy finish on your wheels.... done for both the black and silver areas? Done only with tires "off" ?
- prop rod is a good idea using arrow shafts. Make sure the "purchase" or seating area is deep...so a gust of wind can't "lift" the lid and drop it.

- Wil

[livi]

Thanks Roy ! Very instructive.

[RoyB]

a couple of questions / comments.

- is your photo album mising an "after" shot? (YES, was too dark last night to take a proper picture)

- were you trying to get the effect of an 8" rim with your (presumably) 7" rims? (YES, the tires were not filling the wheel wells properly)

- are the spacers aluminum? (Some type of aluminum alloy. Maybe 7071)

- how did you re-find the "sweet spot" for the adjusters afterwards? Is it simply a matter of how much the emerggency brake lever comes up ? Presume you can re-establish this while still on jackstands, no? (No adjustment necessary. Put them back in exactly as you took them out and everything will work fine)

Other areas of your album....
- are you sure you have your H4's cinched down all the way on the bottom? Don't lose those puppies ! (Yes, there is no way to tighten the bottom. I had concerns also, but I'm told this is normal)

- two part epoxy finish on your wheels.... done for both the black and silver areas? Done only with tires "off" ? (Just the black area. Done with the tires on the rims)

- prop rod is a good idea using arrow shafts. Make sure the "purchase" or seating area is deep...so a gust of wind can't "lift" the lid and drop it. (The piece that is inserted into the hole on the lid is 3/4" long. It takes quite a bit of force to lift the lid over 3/4" )

Hope this helps............

[Wil Ferch]

RoyB:

One last question.... are the spacers hub-centric? Does the backside have a recess that fits snugly over the stock center flange "ears"? I see that the frontside has the raised lip to provide such a new place for the wheel itself to mount onto.

Wil

[RoyB]

Yes, these spacers are hub centric. I bought them from Ebay and the seller said they were for the front wheels of an Audi. I took a chance. I own a machine shop and figured I could modify them if they didn't fit. As it turns out they fit perfectly. Just a slight tap with a rubber mallet and they were on.

[Wil Ferch]

RoyB:

you have PM...

Wil

[Wil Ferch]

Another question...how is stud length measured..total length "under the head"...or ....threaded portion only?

- Wil

[Rot 911]

Nice work Roy, this question comes up at least a couple of times a year. Nice to be able to point people to your pictures.

[RoyB]

"Another question...how is stud length measured..total length "under the head"...or ....threaded portion only?"

I'm not sure, but it shouldn't make a big difference as the "head" is only a couple of mm thick.

[jeffgrant]

FYI, your links are no longer working... could you post the pics straight into this thread?

[RoyB]

here's the link

http://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/vehicles/porsche_911/

[hmd]

RoyB,

I used this method 2 weeks ago and it saved me heaps of time.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

[RoyB]

Your more than welcome!

[bmgmd]

Great tutorial!

I'm planning on some spacers and couldn't find anything with pics that would help. You should submit it to the official Tech Info Center at this website.

Thanks for the timely info!

[valenciacarrera]

It's a very well written write-up. I would like to add my $.02 worth, if you don't mind.

I ended up replacing OEM studs with 100mm. It is actually possible to this without pulling hubs. The trick is to completely disassemble e-brake attachments to the trailing arm. Once the cable is clear from the trailing arm, you will find a hole that is just enough to pass a wheel stud from inboard of trailing arm to outboard.

[Wil Ferch]

I just did this mod today.... some "builds" on Roy's excellent write-up

- - you don't have to remove the spring that holds the two parking brake drum shoes together...simply lift the upper shoe with a screwdriver levered against the brake...lift out the adjuster. Then, when you install the long stud, simply "hold aside" the spring to one side. simple.

- - there is a screw and nut used to hold on the splash shield.The screw enters from behind. You may have a slight clearance problem as Roy alludes to...removing the bolt affords a "bit" more clearance. You may find that the long stud will enter the wheel hub from behind at a certain hub position...but seemingly won't go in any further. If you rotate the wheel "ever so slightly" afterwards... the long stud will wiggle and find it's way in.

- - no need to remove pads when removing the calipers...

-- make * absolutely* sure the stud is pulled in all the way. A 0.5 mm gap under the head is about 1/3 turn of the lug nut....you don't want to think you're tight and find out later that it requires further tightening !!

Not a placebo effect...the car tracks straighter and the steering "feel" ( oddly) improved. FWIW...I'm running 7" also in the front but with 205's there.

Wil