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Carrera replacement heater blower (long)

If you need to replace the blower motor on the engine there's a great way to do it with a motor from Graingers - $22 vs $200+ for an oem motor. It's not too hard to do if you're even a little bit handy. The Grainger motor is not a direct bolt-in, but it's still pretty simple.

Some of this info came from another Pelican who's name I have misplaced - sorry for the lack of a proper credit.

The Graniger motor is number 2M197 - you can order it on their website (www.grainger.com) for $22.73.

You need to pull the fan motor and housing off the engine, a very simple job. Remove the old fan motor and squirrel cage. You'll have to fabricate a round plate to mount the Grainger motor to the Porsche housing. I used a piece of .080" aluminum with three holes to mount to the housing, and then a larger center hole and two small mounting holes for the motor. See attached photo (if it posts OK).

The Grainger motor has a 1/4" shaft, and the Porsche fan has a 5/16" hole. I found a perfectly sized bronze bushing at a hardware store - 1/4" id, 5/16" od, 3/4" long, or you can make one from some 5/16" X .028 wall tubing. Then I drilled and tapped the boss on the fan to accept an allen-head set screw (sorry, don't remember the size) to hold the fan on the shaft. The shaft has a flat side, so if you also drill the bushing you can lock it on well. To gain access for the drilling and tapping, I removed one of the blades on the fan, and another on the opposite side to maintain balance. Assemble the motor to the housing, then position the fan correctly before you tighten it down. I also used some Loctite to be sure everything stays together. (See other photo).

The new motor housing is slightly shorter and slightly larger in diameter. It fits in the Porsche mounting cradle fine, but I changed to a slightly longer bolt for the band clamp that holds it all together. Sorry, don't have any notes about the size - I think it was an 8mm metric, not sure about the length.

(I snipped the wiring harness off the old motor and spliced it onto the wires from the new motor (black is ground on the motor, brown is ground on the plug), so it plugs in like stock.)

EDIT 03/04: REVERSE THE WIRING CONNECTION! Wiring the motor with the black motor wire to the brown harness wire will cause the motor to rotate in the wrong direction. This is a simple DC motor and it will run in either direction by reversing the
polarity.

Correct wiring is: Red Grainger motor wire to brown harness wire (ground), black motor wire to "hot" harness wire.

The whole job took about an hour and a half, and it would probably take 15 minutes to swap just the motor in the future. The Grainger motor is made by Dayton and seems to be at least as good as the Porsche part. Working fine so far!

Last edited by Wavey; 03-14-2004 at 09:05 AM..
Old 02-07-2003, 07:02 AM
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Wavey - Excellent post! I'm archiving this for that inevitable day when my motor goes out.
Thanks,
Colin
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:28 AM
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Very good post! I bet my '86 Carrera would never know the difference.
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:37 AM
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My blower's still working, but this is definately going in my "Book of SC Knowledge". Thanks a lot.

Jerry M
'78 SC
Old 02-07-2003, 07:52 AM
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My pleasure, guys. Always glad to share some tips. Lord knows I've gotten plenty here.
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:41 AM
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Very Cool!!

Man the last week has provided a wealth of knowledge.
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:52 AM
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Wish I hadn't've spent $253 on the OEM motor last year.
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Old 02-07-2003, 12:33 PM
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I did the same type thing for the condensor fan in the trunk. A surplus $5.00 motor has performed well for the last couple of years.

Tim
Old 02-07-2003, 12:37 PM
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Great post. Mine's TU and I've been looking for a cheaper way out than the $225 or so.

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Old 02-07-2003, 07:10 PM
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Hmm, looks like Grainger part 6L100 might work for the reducing bushing too, but it seems pricey at almost $4, but still beats $200+.
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:46 PM
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Tim Polzin I sent you a PM.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by masraum
Hmm, looks like Grainger part 6L100 might work for the reducing bushing too, but it seems pricey at almost $4, but still beats $200+.
But for $4 you get 3 bushings!

I did this repair last weekend (with the 6L100 bushing). I used the mounting plate off the old motor. 1-1/8" hole saw to open up the center. Drilled out 3 rivets. Used a Dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheel to take off three posts. Drill type circular sander to smooth it down. It is aluminum so it goes fast. I wish I took some pics. It will all make sense when you get the plate off the old motor.

Redrilled 2 mounting holes (existing holes are close but not close enough). Then remove the nuts on the new motor, slide the plate on, bolt it up and your ready. Attach the fan per Wavey.

Wavey this was an excellent find! If you're ever in Atlanta, cold adult beverages (or a good meal) are on me!

Andrew
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Old 02-12-2004, 02:33 PM
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I did the replacement as well a month or so ago. It cost me under $25 for everything! It was very easy. The only tools I used were a drill to drill out the rivits, a grinder to grind down the posts, and a tap. Took me about three hours from start to finish, and was a very satisfing repair.

$4 for three bushing is good also. The brass bushings are so soft, that I crushed one on accident while putting it in. I would have been pretty pissed if I diddn't have a replacement.

Thanks for the great info Wavey!
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Old 02-12-2004, 05:39 PM
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Yep, works like a charm and is easy to boot!
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Old 04-18-2004, 01:43 PM
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Sweet!

Has anyone come up with a similar solution for the replacement of the blower/fan up front that connects to the fresh air intake? I'm referring to the fan that looks like this (914) one:

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Old 04-18-2004, 02:50 PM
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The engine heater motor works great--wonderful substitution for a $200+ part.

Any problems with footwell blowers after this installation? I just completed it, and mine come on briefly, and then stop. Is there some relay in the trunk area that is related?

Help!
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:42 PM
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I have the same problem with my footwell blowers after doing the engine blower repair. Sometimes, the footwell blowers will run until the engine hits about 2500RPM then they go off. If I turn the engine blower off (push down the red levers) then on again they will run for an instant then go off. Most of the time they just run for an instant then stop.

There is a pricey relay/control unit in the engine compartment (left side by the small fuse block). That is my guess as to where the problem is but I haven't swapped it out with a good one to to see. (Should have hit someone up at the AutoX a few weeks ago!)

Also, I seem to recall reading about the need for a certain amount of resistance through the engine blower moter to make the control unit work correctly. I wonder if this "replacement" motor is the problem and not the relay/control unit.

Andrew
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Last edited by aj88cab; 12-09-2004 at 06:58 AM..
Old 12-09-2004, 06:29 AM
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The footwell blowers are notoriously unreliable. If you take one apart and see how cheaply the motors are made (especially for what they cost!) you'll understand why. The bushings wear out / wallow out and the motors bind up. If the bushings aren't too bad a clean and lube will help for a while, but they're going to fail again. I just pulled the fuses on mine (at the motor) and have no problem running just the engine blower. Some day I'll pitch the footwell units, but that will require a new hose between the chassis ducts and the dash ducts.

I have to say this again - for a performance car, where simplicity and weight are issues, I can't believe how poorly designed and convoluted the 911 HVAC system is. A total of 6 electric motors, each with their own weight plus the weight of the associated wiring, switches, relays, etc. and none of them up to the task.
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:28 AM
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I replaced the brushes in the original motor a month ago.

Simple and effective.
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:42 AM
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Has anyone verified whether the resistance through the Grainger motor is compatible with the rest of the system? I just pulled out my blower motor and it's unfortunately toast. I was hoping for bad brushes, but the top plate bushings (if there were any) are worn through and the hole in the top plate is very oblong. I might attempt to round out the hole and fabricate a new (oversided) bushing, but I'm afraid the magnets and coil plates are bad after bouncing around loose for so long.

Anyway, replacing the motor would probably be easiest, but I would like to ensure the footwell blowers will work afterward. A couple of people mentioned they stopped working after installing the Grainger motor.

Shawn
Old 12-11-2004, 11:00 AM
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