76 911 targa with 915 transmission not going to gears

[kavadarci]

As you may know my car has not been driven for few years and finally today I got the engine running.
While rough running (needs timing adjustment) I wanted to take out for run to burn all that oil but th car doesn't get into gear.
I tried all fears and I can hear grinding.
I adjusted th cable to be maximum and I can see the lever moving but no go.
Fluid is to the top.

Any suggestions? It doesn't feel like the clutch is engaging.

Thank you.

[proporsche]

yup ,do not do too much ****ting.be careful ,clutch replacement is cheaper the trany rebuild.
How does the clutch pedal feels?

hard ?

Ivan

[kavadarci]

Hard yes

[proporsche]

so,do not really bother and take the engine out and investigate...one more thing..does it shift with engine off? classic H shifting
Ivan

[kavadarci]

Shifts fine into all the gears when turned off but it doesn't feel like pushing the clutch makes any difference.
Can the transmission come out without dropping the engine?

[proporsche]

no it is vice versa, engine out without the transmission...is possible and i must say very easy to do

Ivan

[kavadarci]

I wasn't looking towards removing the engine,.
Would any transmission shop know what to do when I take the transmission to them?
Is there something else I can try before engine removal , does the clutch get stuck while sitting

[Walter_Middie]

Is your clutch rusted to the flywheel? If so, put it in gear and start it up and drive it - accelerating and decelerating until the clutch releases from the flywheel. Pretty common for a manual trans car that sits for a long time.

Make sure your brakes are working first.

[proporsche]

The thing is, to get to the clutch you have to either remove the trany together with engine or just the engine.
From what you are saying you have problem with clutch,not the trany. So ,removing the engine is your most economical solution to the problem.Then once you have the engine out you can decide what is next...

Ivan

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Walter_Middie

Is your clutch rusted to the flywheel? If so, put it in gear and start it up and drive it - accelerating and decelerating until the clutch releases from the flywheel. Pretty common for a manual trans car that sits for a long time.

Make sure your brakes are working first.

Go this route first.

+1 on the brakes.

[kavadarci]

So when I adjust he cable do I go towards the car. I did that now or towards the back of the car?

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by Walter_Middie

Is your clutch rusted to the flywheel? If so, put it in gear and start it up and drive it - accelerating and decelerating until the clutch releases from the flywheel. Pretty common for a manual trans car that sits for a long time.

Make sure your brakes are working first.

That did it.
Thank you
Once I got through few gears everything works fine.
I was sceptical on this one but I believe it now.
Now I need some help with the timing as this puppy backfires quite a lot.

I'll start another entry for the back firing.

[Bob Kontak]

Sweet!

Nice job, Rex.

[proporsche]

congrats..

[Walter_Middie]

I can help with timing too:



To check the 6,000 RPM timing, just start the engine, go back to the engine compartment with a timing light, use one hand to hold the timing light and the other rev the engine. Just briefly rev the engine to somewhere near 6,000 RPM. If you're watching the timing marks, you'll see the timing advance, and then stop advancing at some point. This is your total timing. You don't need to sit at 6,000 RPM. Just rev it up briefly and see where where the timing stops. You want a total of around 38 degrees. If needed, readjust the distributor at idle, then rev to 6,000 RPM again until you get the advance you want. Timing at idle is not that important - you want the total timing at high RPM.

[Walter_Middie]

That did it.
Thank you
Once I got through few gears everything works fine.
I was sceptical on this one but I believe it now.

I had a friend store a Datsun 280Z at my house over a winter (outside). Next summer, same thing - the clutch disk was stuck to the flywheel. It's surprising how little corrosion sticks them together. A quick trip around the neighborhood freed it up.

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by Walter_Middie

I'm good with timing too:



To check the 6,000 RPM timing, just start the engine, go back to the engine compartment with a timing light, use one hand to hold the timing light and the other rev the engine. Just briefly rev the engine to somewhere near 6,000 RPM. If you're watching the timing marks, you'll see the timing advance, and then stop advancing at some point. This is your total timing. You don't need to sit at 6,000 RPM. Just rev it up briefly and see where where the timing stops. You want a total of around 38 degrees. If needed, readjust the distributor at idle, then rev to 6,000 RPM again until you get the advance you want. Timing at idle is not that important - you want the total timing at high RPM.

Ok but the distributor doesn't go any further to the right for adjusting, it is all the way to the end

[Walter_Middie]

the distributor doesn't go any further to the right for adjusting, it is all the way to the end

You need to remove the distributor and rotate the distributor drive gear one tooth as it inserts back into the engine so you can rotate it farther in the direction needed. You'll notice that the distributor rotates slightly as you remove and replace it. Just rotate it one tooth when you re-insert it.

[Walter_Middie]

You don't need to be at TDC when you pull the distributor. Just note where the rotor is pointing, pull the distributor up just far enough so the rotor moves freely, and re-insert it with the rotor moved slightly in the direction needed.

[kavadarci]

Ok I will try that tomorrow.
I thought I was stuck with this position.
Thank you.