Distributor repair Help!

[Dizzy911]

Original distributor 0 231 184 007 from 1977 911s 2.7

While checking the vacuum advance I found that the timing plate that the points are mounted on is firmly frozen in place; the vacuum lever can not budge it and it can not be moved by hand either, or just barely. I need to remove the plate and clean and lubricate it.

I removed the distributor and can not see anything holding the timing plate but it barely moves in any direction.



Found many distributor maintenance posts, one that says to rotate the plate a quarter turn to remove, another says to pry it out.
I do not want to risk damaging the plate. but can not see a method to rotate the plate or anywhere to safely pry it out.

The plate as two notches opposite that suggest a spanner of some kind may be used to rotate the plate. Has anybody found a good tool to attempt this removal?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Jim

[jlex]

Judicious use of carburetor choke cleaner may help in freeing things up. I remember having to free up the 30pict3 distributor on my daughter's '70 Beetle using choke cleaner as a temporary fix. Tore it down & rebuilt/regreased it the right way later... A bit of choke cleaner or brake cleaner may help free things up for you so you can get it apart.

[reclino]

On the electronic ignition version I rebuilt 1986 930 there are 3 small Philips screws holding the advance plate in place. I had to rotate the plate to the correct position to see them. You can see one of the threaded holes in the distributor and the corresponding hole in the pulse generator plate in the below pictures.
David

[zedsn]

For the 2.7 the assembly has to be rotated a small amount to remove it but I cannot remember if it is clockwise or counter clockwise. Mine was easy to get apart but hard to put back together if I remember correctly.

[bpu699]

If it's internally rusted, you could dip it in evaporust from harborfreight. It will dissolve rust. But, it also takes off galvanizing...

[Flat6pac]

Buy WD40 in the gallon at Lowes, a 2 qt covered pitcher at the dollar store. Let the body soak for a couple days . Always does wonders.
Bruce

[Dizzy911]

Thanks for the ideas, guys.

I can not see any screws through any holes to remove.

The top plate that the points screw on to has that braided wire soldered to the plate below it so they both must me removed together it seems. The top plate (is supposed to) slide over the plate below it to advance the timing, but it doesn't budge.

The weights and springs look clean (through the oval hole) and move easily under the plates , so i hesitate to mess with them.

i can not see any shoulder on the case holding the plate in (that the plate would rotate under) so do not understand what is beneath the plate securing it.

I will try pushing CW or CCW again to see if I can get something to release.

Thanks.

[john walker's workshop]

There are 3 notches that hold the bottom plate. You can see their depressions on the outside of the body. You need to tap the plate sideways to free it from the notches. You probably can free it up without that hassle just by spraying the plate with penetrating oil and working the top section back and forth for a while until it's easy to move.

[Dizzy911]

thanks jw. that is what I did. sprayed penetrating oil between the plates and worked them back n forth to free them. then wiped off excess oil. then sprayed some wd40 between plates. also cleaned old grease around the ball bearing and added new grease there. now it moves fairly easily. put the vacuum retard drum back on and used a hand vacuum to check. about 6 in of vacuum pulls the plate to max position retard.
looks good.

thanks to all.