Car lifted...safety question

[997at]

Hi Guys,
Getting ready to disconnect under engine stuff before engine drop and just thought I'd double check to see if you think my safety set up looks good?
Two 12,000 lb jack stands under the torsion bar ends (holding the weight) and two 4,000 lb (backup) stands under the wood which spans the rear of the floor pan.

[pete3799]

Yup.....you're good to go.
If you need additional room to get the motor out from under the rear you can jack where the wood is.

[FrenchToast]

Not sure the back up stands would do much. The wood would slide off. The saddle is oriented the wrong way. Even the right way, the saddle doesn't look wide enough to hold the wood, letting it still slide off.

If both main stands fail, and the wood falls off, and the smaller stands are under the floorpan, they could puncture through the floor.

As a backup many people put a wheel (with tire) under the rearmost rocker panel and floor area (just in front of the jack stand). I can't say if this is best or not.

[911pcars]

IMHO, avoid using the floor to support the vehicle for reasons explained. In the rear, use the rear torsion bar tube. It's round and fits comfortably on typical jack stand saddles, one on each end of the tube. The factory jack receiver tubes on each rocker arm, along with aftermarket jack adapters are also convenient. However, vintage sheet metal can sometimes be compromised. Thoroughly inspect first before relying on it to keep the car off your head or body appendage.

In front, I use two 2x4s (even 2x3s) screwed together, then positioned on edge so it contacts the front torsion bar ends. Jack stands can then be placed toward the outer ends of the wood support.

However, raising the front evenly can be problematic since most 911s are too low to position the above lift components and a jack under the front end.

This is how I lift the front end. The following support method isn't a quick lift solution. It's for extended service procedures when access and sturdy support is needed under the chassis, especially the front end. Some prep first:

Install a stack of flat aluminum strips onto the top surface of the sheet metal pan such that when installed, the stack just contacts the underside of the front suspension crossmember, thus replacing the existing air space with a solid column of metal. Use a lump of modeling clay (or equiv.) to calculate how much metal to add.



When a floor jack is positioned under the pan (see painted target in photo below), upward force from the jack transfers directly to the crossmember.



A lowered 911 may still not permit access under this area for a floor jack. In this case, use another jack (scissors, bottle jack or equiv.) and raise one side via the existing jack receiver on the rocker panel, high enough to roll a floor jack under the targeted suspension pan.

Once the entire front end is raised to the preferred height, use the sandwiched 2x4s and two jack stands to support the front at the forward torsion bar mounts.

A chassis lift is preferred, but not all of us have the available space or ... a chassis lift.

Sherwood

[fred cook]

When I pull the engine in my SC coupe, I raise the chassis only enough to be able to access the parts and bolts that need to be removed. Then, I use a Sears ATV jack to lower the engine and transmission. once it is fully lowered, I then raise the body enough to pull the engine /tranny out from under the car. Then I lower the chassis back down to a more steady height. Going back in is the reverse. Raise the car, push the engine/tranny back under the car and lower the chassis to a safe/solid working height. It helps to have two floor jacks available to do the various lifting chores. Good luck and be careful!