Car runs fine except for that stalling bit..
 

1980 3.0L (Don't know if it's ROW, how do I check?). Just got the car, will be doing oil, plugs etc but for now...

It has some 'issues', maybe some input from members?

1) Permatune, but it runs so I'm leaving it alone (this could be the issue but probably not the stalling at lights).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508082621.JPG

2) This air hose runs from side of airbox opening to side of engine, car runs same with or without it hooked up. (I'll fix of course but what is it?)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508082682.JPG
The engine in question, very Ronald McDonaldesque :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508082705.JPG

3) Random unhooked connector. (But blue glove sorry this picture is just terrible!)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508082735.JPG

Ordered the pressure gauges and I feel another engine drop is in my future :)

If it is a ROW it will be a 930-10 for the 1980 year and the serial number for the motor will start with 63XXXXX if US it will be 64.
The quickest way is to look at your exhaust system and see if you have an O2 sensor in the system...if you do you have the US version as that controls your AFR.

If you are dying at idle you may be too rich in your AFR/CO...so need that checked...or have an air leak leaning you way out.

I 'think' that hose goes behind the back of your motor and around to the charcoal canister passenger side forward.....it will run fine without that but plug the hole in the filter area.

Look down in this area. It's on a flat parallel to the ground behind the fat round sensor. I am almost certain the engine number is on the case here and I believe the serial number as well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508089095.jpg

It's running super rich (clothes smell great!!). It warms up then wants to sputter and will die if I don't touch the gas.

64 starting serial number. And I plugged the port (runs same).

If it runs ok except for stalling, I wouldn't feel this way.

You have some work to do but you do kind of need to get into the car and crack that learning curve. Read more than you wrench for now.

That hose should wrap around the back of the engine over to the back of the charcoal canister. There are two ports in the rear (well front side) of the canister. One big and one little. The big goes to the air box on the air filter side. Little leads to the expansion tank in the driver's front fender. The lower pressure on the air cleaner side when throttle is opened draws the canister fumes into the engine. Removing it has no impact on engine operation as you've seen.

There is an open port on the rearward side of the canister that used to have a hose that connected to the fan shroud near #1 cylinder that was no longer used in 1980.

US model and over rich can and will cause stalling at idle.

Sometimes folks set it rich to override some air leaks...that's a guess.

The factory settings are pretty lean for the US model (too lean for me) but you can reset this adjustment...however, if you lean it too much you can blow up your airbox on startup (not good) and the proper way to do it is with an o2 sensor in your tail pipe and a fully warmed motor. Any Porsche indy guy can do that for you in a few minutes.

I looked in the parts catalog and it says the 1980 ROW is 930.09/19 and US/Canada version is 930.07.

Pichu, for fun, can you confirm? 1980 is the "same" as the rest but just a little different.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508091061.jpg

Here is the parts catalog pdf file........

https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/911_USA_78_83_KATALOG.PDF

Awesome!! That pdf is great! I will check the numbers tomorrow too dark today.

Did a quick 'backdate' heat delete (fan wasn't even hooked up, hoses not connected just kinds sitting on exhaust side...).

that hose looks like it is for the brake booster. you could be rich enough that opening it does not lean it out enough to notice.

you need to check fuel pressures. also check power to WUR. if the WUR does not heat up or is not raising the CP when warm it will run very rich.

Will check all those for sure.

Also, I found a 3mm hex key in the mixture slot :) you know, just kinda hanging out..

Take the Allen wrench out. It will mess with the movement of the airflow meter plate.

I had the airbox cover off, and was moving the plate, then I found a little lever pulled on it and it come loose.. OOPS broke something, kept pulling, oh... hex key! phew!!

I have learned quite a bit about idle screw, mixture screw, air leaks, CIS.

Best I have learned; turn in mixture screw till it runs. (Hope that works). Also (an older Bob post), turn in idle all way, should run around 200RPMs, if it's 600ish RPM there are air leaks.

Anyone wanna see pics of the purple beast? Kind of a sheeper, please no making fun, it's the only running 911 I have!

the barney mobile?

Fixed it! Idle is great, runs really nice. How; closed idle screw all the way in, and out 1.5 turns (car still ran all the way in so no intake leaks?), then mixture screw (sans hex key) fiddled with it, but it smells sooo much better.

Runs really nice. Onto fixing other issues but it drives good, very happy and thank you for all the help!

Pics of Bjarny will be posted tomorrow :) I want my buddy to see first.

wait a minute, you turned the mixture screw ALL the way in and it still kept running so you think that proves no air leaks? I would think that proves the opposite.

cant say I have ever turned one ALL the way in but I have idled it down pretty low and it was not all the way in.

You misread my post. I said 'Idle screw', not mixture screw. 2 different things.