Removing trailing arm with trans still installed - 87 Carrera?
 

Any tricks here? I’ve seen Chuck from ER have the arms down with the engine and trans still in. My biggest problem is getting a wrench/socket in there and making sure it is seated before cranking on it. Tried once and don’t want to strip the bolt and nut. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509922651.jpg

Also looking for tips on how to remove this shaft, believe it’s part of the clutch or Slavs cylinder?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509922729.jpg

Need to move it to have room for my wrench to articulate.

Trailing arm pivot bolt removal......
 

Tony,

Use a box wrench for the nut (inner side) to hold it and an impact wrench and socket for the bolt (outer) to loosen it. Zap it a couple of times and you are done. If you don't have an impact wrench, use a long breaker bar.

Tony D.

Ok was wondering if I could turn the bolt side

What is the reason you want to change these bushings? A real need or just basic to-do list?
I'm asking, because I've encountered, that in 9 of 10 these bushings were never so worn, that you cried out loud.

so before getting messed up, ask yourself "do I really need to?!"

disconnect left and right (red circle) first.
then remove pry (center red circle).
now you can slide off pivot lever arm.
to remove longbolt set M8 ring wrench at tip and unscrew from trans housing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509956819.jpg

I know it would be easier to leave them in there, but this is a suspension refresh and I’ve changed every other rubber bushing out. That plus I already bought he expensive ER ones that are sport hardness.

my humble opinion: you won't notice a difference in this detail part (unless they are shot, according to picture: not).

Do it, I replaced mine and needed to. You'll feel better

Look at it this way, all you need to do is lock the nut and turn the bolt where there is much more room. I bought a cheap box end wrench and ground off the end with just enough handle left on to grab and lock the nut. I also had to grind down some of at the wall to be able to slide it on the nut in there. I slid it on, it turned at first but then locked as it should and bolts came off just fine.

good luck.

Decision, decision.......
 

Max,

They might be still look good but they are 20 years old rubber bushings. They are old and dry rot by this time. Since you are doing the suspension refresh and has the replacement parts, time to replace them. The best time to do a total rear suspension upgrade is when the engine is out. Stay safe.

Tony

I just purchased a new set of the Sport ER bushings also. It's the last of my suspension rebuild on the rear. I have been procrastinating on doing this also. Looks like it's going to be a ***** to do. On my car the bolt has slide out towards the trans. My nut is facing outward. I am still trying to figure if mechanic put them in backwards. It doesn't look like it has enough room to slid out. I will be watching your post. Keep posting pics. Thanks Maxx

then you have only the chance to cut the bolts head and pull it from the other side.

or: pull the engine in winter time and accept that its your chance douing a thorough cleaning of that area( and maybe do a bit more tasks...)

found this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/215427-lime-rock-thrash-disassembly.html

Flojo. Thanks. Great link. I was thinking of cutting them off also.

It is possible to get them out when the trans is in place. I had to fabricate a wrench from a cheap socket and a 22mm wrench from autozone, basically welded the socket to the box end of the wrench. Then I just used a normal 22mm wrench on the other side, they didn’t exactly come right out but I got them out. I replaced them with wevo trailing arm bolts that have a lower profile head so I can more easily remove them next time.

I’m really getting discouraged - I was able to get a solid lock on both sides of the bolt/nut with a impact wrench, hit it several times, and it didn’t budge. Can’t use heat because of the bushings. What to do?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510345782.jpg

I think the universal joint reduces the torque available. And I’m not even sure I can get the socket to seat properly on the other side. See where the bare metal is - this is where the socket rubs against the torsion bar tube.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510345973.jpg

Even if I put a huge pipe on the socket, since it’s 3/8 “ I’m worried about not getting enough torque. And here’s the big question - how the hell would a ever get a torque wrench in there when replacing the bolts to torque them to the correct spec?

I’m really leaning towards leaving them in until next time the engine needs to be dropped for something else. Here’s the question - if the spring plate was connected but the trans was out, would I be able to replace these?

My theoretical knowledge to that question is, that I beleive there might be just enough play to slide the end out. At least when brake line is disconnected.

But next question is: will it allow you to put force on it to pull the old bushings and insert the new ones?
Normally this is work done on a bench.

Expert may deny/confirm please.

They’re staying in until I have to drop the engine next. Tried two different air guns and it wouldn’t budge. I’m sure it was because I was trying to rotate the bolt instead of the nut.