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Why donít you just drop the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
Ok here is an update, it is bitter sweet.

Good news:
Heat exchangers are out, heat flapper boxes are out.
There was barely anything left of the flapper boxes and you can see that the heat exchangers are gone too.
One nut came out, two came out with the studs.


Bad news:
9 broke but not in, all have around 1cm left visible.
I followed all the instructions , soaked for few days, heated and all I can say, especially after seeing where these studs broke is that they are half corroded , the center portion was thinned out and the power that took to break was minimal.
I have seen videos where people use tons of power and the nuts make horrible noise on the way out, metal on metal, I had none of that light turn and it breaks.

In any case ,
I need help on what is best way to attack these studs?
I sprayed them with libricant and left them for the night.

Few pics.


Kava,

You are making an easy and simple project more difficult. The oil leak has to be fixed. The air injection will be removed and fix those snapped exhaust studs. With the engine sitting on an engine stand, you have the comfort and luxury of doing all these back breaking jobs while you are sitting on rolling chair. It is not how hard you work but how smart you did the job that matters. Unless you are the kind of person who enjoy doing things the hard way then continue what you are doing. And you will be back with more questions than anyone Iíve seen in this forum. Lastly, just stay safe.

Tony
Old 11-08-2017, 07:58 PM
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I broke several studs.

The jig for replacement was expensive but very much worth it, I ground the studs down flat then drilled and tapped with the jig. New studs went right in. Very nice tool.

I did have to buy a couple extra drill bits.


https://www.stomskiracing.com/products/exhaust-head-stud-repair-kit
Old 11-09-2017, 11:11 AM
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Even Kroil won't get the studs out of the heads. Get the drill jig mentioned above, then sell it when you're done for a slight discount.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:58 AM
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Seems like I am heading that way.i do want to try one more thing.
I can put either one or two nuts on some of he studs.
I can borrow a welder and weld the nuts to the studs and give it a go.
Worst case they break and I buy the tool.

I did remove all the air injection plugs and they were too rusted like there is no tomorrow but none broke and I did same what I did for the studs.
By the way what type of bolts I can use to plug the whole?

At better examination today the two studs that came out with the nuts have solid center while the others are honed out and half gone.

That explains why some broke after one or two turns not right away.
I have removed tons of nuts and bolts but these didn't need any pressure to break OR maybe I should ease on the weights at the gym, lol

I have some confidence that few will come out with welding but probably will need the tool.

New exchangers and flapper boxes arrived so at least that is good news.
I test fitted them and they fit and look great.


Old 11-09-2017, 01:24 PM
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later air pipe! :-D

So I'm surprised you bought the same HEs. Thought you were considering SSI (backdate 74 style) like some of the pics posted. The HEs you took off look fine, just greasy, unless we can't see piles of rust. But I don't see that in pics.

The 74 style are better as they have an even length tube to the ...spacing the name ...joiner connecter thingy.

As others have said, get the stomski kit. I found mine on Ebay for a steep discount if you are willing wait.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:11 PM
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These were fantasy deal I couldn't refuse.
The old heat exchangers fell apart when I took them out.
I'm hunting for the kit now.
Old 11-09-2017, 04:07 PM
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You really should have stopped after you broke 1 or 2 studs and gone a different direction...

You can use a socket and extension, fit it through the holes in the ssi, and use an impact wrench. You need thin walled sockets though...

Weld some nuts on there, with a tig if possible, as that gets it red hot. Then zap with an impact wrench.

Drilling out 9 studs sounds like a long, perilous, painful journey...
Old 11-09-2017, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
You really should have stopped after you broke 1 or 2 studs and gone a different direction...

You can use a socket and extension, fit it through the holes in the ssi, and use an impact wrench. You need thin walled sockets though...

Weld some nuts on there, with a tig if possible, as that gets it red hot. Then zap with an impact wrench.

Drilling out 9 studs sounds like a long, perilous, painful journey...

That is the plan of attack. I have 350lb impact wrench and that might be little too much, need to get smaller.
Will keep you posted.
I say this (maybe for my benefits) but the studs that broke I highly doubt that anyone would have been successful in removing.
It's either this car was left in a moist environment for a long time or maybe it's something else but the two studs that came out with the nut were solid in the middle, the ones that broke are thinned out and rusted in the middle with almost no stem to hold anything together.

I really appreciate the help from everyone here and I will keep you posted.
One way or the other it is a progress.
Thank you.
Old 11-10-2017, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kontak View Post
Propane with time

Mapp gas with time.

Oxy Mapp gas with a $50-70 Bernzomatic dual feed unit from Lowes or Home Depot.

Bummer is the OXY tanks don't last for long. Maybe enough to get your nuts off the studs then the $10 tank is spent.
oxy map kit at lowes is excellent but as Bob points out you go through oxygen quick. The pencil tip point is perfect for this job .. don't move forward without it or disaster will ensue..
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
That is the plan of attack. I have 350lb impact wrench and that might be little too much, need to get smaller.
Will keep you posted.
I say this (maybe for my benefits) but the studs that broke I highly doubt that anyone would have been successful in removing.
It's either this car was left in a moist environment for a long time or maybe it's something else but the two studs that came out with the nut were solid in the middle, the ones that broke are thinned out and rusted in the middle with almost no stem to hold anything together.

I really appreciate the help from everyone here and I will keep you posted.
One way or the other it is a progress.
Thank you.
I wouldn't be going anywhere near exhaust studs with any kind of impact wrench , that is just begging for disaster.
Heat cherry read as mentioned many times and ease them out .
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:51 AM
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I would mig weld a nut onto the stud as you mention above, then let everything cool. Then use a torch to heat the aluminum around the stud to get the stud hole to grow slightly then wrench the stud out. Rob
Old 11-10-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30westrob View Post
I would mig weld a nut onto the stud as you mention above, then let everything cool. Then use a torch to heat the aluminum around the stud to get the stud hole to grow slightly then wrench the stud out. Rob
It does look like the bulk of the shears allowed enough room for this.

No on impact wrench. Yes on heat.

Rent or buy the oxy/acet tanks.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyt911sc View Post
kava,

you are making an easy and simple project more difficult. the oil leak has to be fixed. the air injection will be removed and fix those snapped exhaust studs. With the engine sitting on an engine stand, you have the comfort and luxury of doing all these back breaking jobs while you are sitting on rolling chair. It is not how hard you work but how smart you did the job that matters. Unless you are the kind of person who enjoy doing things the hard way then continue what you are doing. And you will be back with more questions than anyone iíve seen in this forum. Lastly, just stay safe.

Tony
+1
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:41 PM
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