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I hope last heat exchangers question

As I am reading, checking and waiting for the penetrating oil to work I found that the angle to attack the nuts is awkward not allowing socket to go straight up.
Has anyone cut the heat exchangers marked in yellow before (assume there is enough space to do this) this way one gets straight access to the nuts.
I thought I ask.
Old 11-08-2017, 01:35 PM
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A 13mm 6 point wobbly socket works fine. Don't expect the WD to do anything, you need heat.
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Old 11-08-2017, 01:52 PM
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Iíve had the best luck by heating and bending a closed end wrench to fit over the nuts (if they werenít the barrel nuts accessed through the heat exchanger). SSI used to enclose a special wrench to allow access to some of the nuts as well, so you might see if you could borrow one locally.

Otherwise, I donít see where cutting the tubes as indicated would be an issue if youíre throwing the old heat exchangers away.
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Old 11-08-2017, 01:52 PM
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Snap on or brand name swivel socket. Other will strip.

We are here for you mate.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:07 PM
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:15 PM
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X2 on the heat.



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Old 11-08-2017, 02:54 PM
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A distributor wrench (we call it an ssi wrench) makes it easy. heat the bolts to red hot first.

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Old 11-08-2017, 02:58 PM
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And someone will probably give you $$$ for those exchangers....
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:59 PM
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Wow
Since I don't have acetalyn torch what are my other options?
Old 11-08-2017, 03:09 PM
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Wow
Since I don't have acetalyn torch what are my other options?
Old 11-08-2017, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
Wow
Since I don't have acetalyn torch what are my other options?
Propane with time

Mapp gas with time.

Oxy Mapp gas with a $50-70 Bernzomatic dual feed unit from Lowes or Home Depot.

Bummer is the OXY tanks don't last for long. Maybe enough to get your nuts off the studs then the $10 tank is spent.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:24 PM
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I used a hand held Home Depot propane one successfully. Took a while to heat each fastener but all came off with a single tank.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:40 PM
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Rent a small oxy/acet.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:02 PM
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I took the cut-them-off approach. In my case the old heater boxes where rotted away. By cutting them off you can at least get at the nuts with a Dremel.

Just make sure you cut with the heat exchangers facing down so no metal bits fall into the exhaust ports.

Mark
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:07 PM
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Broil (darn auto-correct; substitue a "K" for the "B" in that first word) works better than WD. Let it sit over night. I know heat is a good answer also or in addition to. But frankly, I've never had any issues removing them without either, even on my project car which I know hadn't been touched for at least 15 year before I got it. I can't explain that; just lucky I guess (in that respect anyway).

Use an anti-seize when you put it back together. When I had the 914-6, where the HE's had to come off for every valve adjustment, it never let me down.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:20 PM
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Thank you everyone for your suggestions, I'm ready.
I've taken an engine out from 71 Mercedes 250c , rebuilt and put it back in and was not nervous as with these .

Will keep you posted.
Old 11-08-2017, 04:32 PM
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We use map gas at the shop but at home, I have a propane torch that was $15 at Home Depot and I've used it a ton for loosening up rusted fasteners. While it's still hot, touch an old candle to the threads. The joint will wick in the wax instead of evaporating the penetrating oil. Then tighten the nut a 1/16 turn to break it free and then loosen it.
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:24 PM
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Kano-Kroil is simply the best. it will free up anything. Here in Paducah KY we had a facility which enriched uranium for nearly 50 years. There was some serious caustic corrosion which attacked the machinery used in the production. Kroil was the go to for freeing up frozen hardware. If you have a few days just hit the nuts with it and let it sit. its amazing stuff.
Old 11-08-2017, 06:44 PM
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PB Blaster with the engine on a stand and upside down (soak for several days) and MAPP gas, several heat cycles of heating the nut cherry red, I've done 2 engines successfully this way
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:51 PM
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Ok here is an update, it is bitter sweet.

Good news:
Heat exchangers are out, heat flapper boxes are out.
There was barely anything left of the flapper boxes and you can see that the heat exchangers are gone too.
One nut came out, two came out with the studs.


Bad news:
9 broke but not in, all have around 1cm left visible.
I followed all the instructions , soaked for few days, heated and all I can say, especially after seeing where these studs broke is that they are half corroded , the center portion was thinned out and the power that took to break was minimal.
I have seen videos where people use tons of power and the nuts make horrible noise on the way out, metal on metal, I had none of that light turn and it breaks.

In any case ,
I need help on what is best way to attack these studs?
I sprayed them with libricant and left them for the night.

Few pics.

Old 11-08-2017, 07:25 PM
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