911sc 1981 Reservior

[PistonPete]

1981 911 SC

Ok So filled my gas up yesterday and after driving 200 yards to stop at restaurant next door I saw fluid dripping from, in front of, front drivers side tire. Did the sniff test and sure enough it was gasoline. It left a decent size puddle not huge but it eventually stopped and hasn't drained since.

It appeared to be leaking form a line I thought was part of windshield washer fluid reservoir. (See image)But after inspection with tire removed it looks like the windshield washer reservoir is not there so . I have inspected the manual I have but im just not sure what the heck this reservoir is. I am pretty concerned as a fuel leak line can potentially be dangerous.

Any help would be great. Thank you ahead of time.

[john walker's workshop]

Expansion tank for fuel tank. Common for the hoses to rot.

[PistonPete]

Wow thanks. Fixed!

[81SC]

Also check the smaller diameter hose that goes to the top of the expansion tank, it is probably perished as well.

[BoxsterGT]

Time to check all Fuel Lines & Hoses if you haven't done so before now. If original, they are 38 yrs and counting, and due for replacement.

Len

[panzerfaust]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

Time to check all Fuel Lines & Hoses if you haven't done so before now. If original, they are 38 yrs and counting, and due for replacement.

Len

my upper tiny hose has been disconnected. i reckon no harm is done with it off since the euro cars dont have the evap circuit and just vents in that area?

my tank is currently out on my M491. do you have to remove the motor/tranny to install new tunnel fuel lines?

[BoxsterGT]

You can replace the Tunnel Lines with the motor & trans still in place.

Lots of info about this here on Pelican Parts forum.

Here are a couple tips compiled from fellow Pelicans who have passed on this info....

You must support the Trans and remove the Trans Mount so you have access to the Rear Hose or Hardline connections to the Tunnel Lines.

Important to use Flare Wrenches (17 & 19) of good quality and possibly a good pair of Vise grips for the rear fittings during this part of the work.

The Grommets are next. With a Flat bladed screwdriver push them into the tunnel and pull them out with long nose pliers & the aid of a flashlight.

Inside the Tunnel bend back the metal tabs.

For the next step it is even more important to have that helper.

The replacement tunnel line must be rotated to attach to the original using the M14 female coupler (I provide one at N/C) at the rear. To help in sliding the line through use some electrical tape over the coupler to make a smooth connection and eliminate snags. NO need for lubricant here.

To keep out dirt tape over the fittings w masking tape. I used caps originally but they seemed to get in the way during installation.

Your assistant (again, very important you have one) can then pull the old one out at the front while you are guiding the line in at the rear.

Once in place, DO NOT attach the Hoses until the Tunnel Lines are installed. This way you have some movement back & forth to get them in place, especially at the front.

The grommets are next. Use the same screwdriver and some rubbing alcohol or lube oil to push the grommets in place.

Last is to bend back the metal tabs so the lines are secure.

Hope this helps.

Len

[panzerfaust]

Len, thanks you for the in-depth explanation . i will contact you when i get a chance to get details on your replacement lines. cheers