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AirCooledExcellence's Avatar
 
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Angry Bump Steer Kit

Guys,

Tried to install the bump steer kit today. Seemed easy enough, remove the two bolts that hold the rack in place, pry up eack, insert spacers, insert new longer bolts, EASY!

I managed the first 3 steps OK, but can I get the new bolts to go in, NO WAY!. The bolt threads don't seem to be engaging the rack threads properly and if I look up through the hole it looks OK.

Anyone else have this problem? any tips?

Cheers
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Old 02-11-2003, 03:01 AM
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Hi-

Getting them started might be a little tricky if you don't have the holes lined up just right. Did you loosen the connection from the steering rack to the steering shaft? Open up your smugglers box cover and pull up or remove the cardboard shroud that covers the steering shaft and u-joints. Loosen the connection from the shaft to the rack- I think its like a 12 mm bolt or so...this will allow you to pry the rack up easier (the rack splines will slide up through the connection). Also, lay the old bolt thread-to-thread with the new longer bolt and make sure the thread pitch matches.

Good luck-
BG
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:34 AM
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BER BER is offline
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Tim,

I installed a bump steer kit last winter on my '84 911. The only problem I had was the alarm horn was blocking access and needed to be temporaily removed.

A couple of thoughts...I assume you are using the longer bolts that came with the kit (I know you said that you were). Lay the new bolts up along side the rack, bump steer spacer and the support beam to double check the new bolt is long enough. You can check the bolt size and thread pitch against the original bolts you removered...the only difference should be the new bolts are longer. If all that checks out, then the new longer bolts should fit.

I seem to recall having to reposition everything a couple of times before I got the new bolt to engage the threads in the support beam. I used a 24" pry bar to move things around until everyting was lined up.

If everything checks out (i.e. new bolt size), then the new bolts should work. Don't get frustrated and cross-thread the new bolt because then you will have reason to be miffed.

Good Luck, Bruce
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:39 AM
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You are not alone. I couldn't get my driver's side bolt to thread in for anything. I tried everything. Persistence finally paid off. I got it threaded in by prying it into position a little and cussing a lot.
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:58 AM
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Try putting the old bolts back in, then remove only one at a time so you can keep the aligment of the rack correct. Once I did this it was a breeze. Definately a pain with both bolts removed....

Have fun!
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Old 02-11-2003, 06:54 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys!

I'm glad that I'm not the only one who had problems with this. I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Cheers
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Old 02-11-2003, 07:57 AM
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If I can also recommend, once the new bolts have been threaded, turn the steering wheel back and forth lock-to-lock a few times. This will help align the rack.
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Old 02-11-2003, 08:27 AM
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Brad gets the cigar!!

I removed the spacers and put one of the old bolts back in, tightened it about half way. Then I put a spacer on the other side and the new bolt went straight in and nipped up no problem. Took the old bolt out, inserted the remaining spacer, new bolt went it fine!

Cheers Brad!
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Old 02-12-2003, 02:53 AM
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If you don't loosen the U-joint on the steering column before you push up to get the spacer under, you are working against yourself. There is also more pressure on the steering-column-bushing if you don't re-set the U-joint after shimming the rack. Just make sure the steering wheel is straight throughout.
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Last edited by Gunter; 02-12-2003 at 05:48 AM..
Old 02-12-2003, 05:46 AM
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Whoohooo, maybe I should go but a lottery ticket

Another note on the steering column u-joint.....make sure you drive the car around the block with it loose so it can settle into its new position. Otherwise, you'll get a *popping* sensation thru the steering wheel when you turn due to the joint binding under tension.

Best of luck..
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:39 AM
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bb80sc: Leaving the U-joint loose and driving? Are you joking here? This is dangerous and should not be suggested.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD!
1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
Old 02-13-2003, 09:12 AM
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No need to leave it loose and drive. Just loosen the nuts on both ends of the joint. Loosen enough to be able to wiggle the joint up and down a bit. You can then turn the wheel in the car back and forth a bit to settle it if you'd like. Really not necessary though. You're simply making sure the joint isn't binding by being "bent" too much. Loosening both bolts allows you to straighten the joint out a bit.

Technically, you should replace the locknuts when you loosen them up, but it's not that big of a deal. Still, the M8x1.25 nuts are only like 25 cents each at your local hardware store. 50 cents is pretty cheap to be sure one doesn't miraculously get loose.

One other thing..............

I intended to install these rack spacers on my car. When I put the spacers under the rack, the rack housing moved up against the rubber fuel lines. I didn't like the idea of this happening, so I decided against the spacers. Anybody else have this happen?
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Last edited by KTL; 02-13-2003 at 10:48 AM..
Old 02-13-2003, 10:43 AM
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Kevin: If you are concerned about the fuel lines rubbing, cover or wrap them. The spacers definately help with bump steer.
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1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
Old 02-13-2003, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gunter
bb80sc: Leaving the U-joint loose and driving? Are you joking here? This is dangerous and should not be suggested.

Umm, this was actually recommended to me here when I did my spacers and got the *popping* afterwards. If the splines are lubed, the joint has to be ever so slightly loose to get it settled. I would agree that really loosening up the joint and driving would not be smart. Perhaps backing in and out of the driveway would be a better recommendation. In my case just turning the wheel did not do the job.

Disclaimer: Please use common sense
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Old 02-13-2003, 03:20 PM
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When I first got my car, it had a nasty clunk through the steering wheel over any significant bump. Spent forever trying to locate the problem - suspension, tie rods, rack bolts, ...everything. Finally tracked it down to the steering shaft.

Loostened both universals, soaked 'em in lube, and let them relax by rotating the steering from side to side on the jack. Cinched up the joints - problem solved. PO must have had this problem for years!!
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Old 02-13-2003, 03:29 PM
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