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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
I'm going to use Cerakote MC-5100 Aluminum clear on these. It's an air cure product and can be applied to any surface finish including polished. I'm also planning to use it on the front crossmember, steering rack housing, front hubs, etc. and also the bare magnesium fan and housing.

I don't like the look of freshly blasted aluminum, it's too whitish and powdery looking for my liking, so I like to smooth the finish by hand with various abrasives. It's a lot of work to get the finish you see on the rear control arm but worth the trouble. It gives it a nice "as cast" metallic glow. (EDIT - looking at the above pictures, the rear control arm gives the most realistic photographic representation of the finish)

I haven't had a chance to fully finish the fan yet but here's a peek. It's always the most work to make something look effortless, like it hasn't been messed with at all. That's what I'm going for.

Jonny, do you think this product would be good for finishing RS wheel?

Andy
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #381 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by acme911 View Post
Jonny, do you think this product would be good for finishing RS wheel?

Andy
I'll have to get back to you on that. Still experimenting. But I certainly hope so!
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #382 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
I'll have to get back to you on that. Still experimenting. But I certainly hope so!
Impressed with the clear so far. I'm letting it cure for a little longer before I torture test it, but so far so good. I have a spare fuchs I've been playing with trying to get the finish I want and I think I am getting there. The anodizing is stripped, the petals sanded to remove imperfections, bead blasted with 80/120 (very fine). I hastily polished the rim for this test. I didn't follow the application instructions exactly since they call for washing with blue dawn and I don't have water at the shop - I cleaned multiple times with wax and grease remover.

Wet:



Dry (the right petal/rim)



The clear is the closest thing I can think of to anodizing that you'd be able to apply yourself. It's very thin, and has very low surface tension. I poured tiny amount on the concrete floor and it soaked right in. I sprayed (and measured once dry) a test piece with two pretty heavy passes and ended up with a dry film thickness around .0007-.0008. I purposely sprayed the wheel with a similarly heavy application so that's a bit thicker than the instructions call for at .00025-.00050.

I think this is really going to work well on the blasted wheel finish as it doesn't really impart much change on the appearance of the surface finish. I'm hoping to preserve the metallic sheen of the blasted metal, but at the same time provide some protection against corrosion and scratching and smudging and fingerprints. I'm going to try a second test today with a thinner application to see how it is different.

This is definitely a "go" for the rear trailing arms, font hubs and crossmember. Sort of a barely there layer of protection without making look overly processed and plastic dipped. Hope to get those sprayed this weekend. I'm thinking of it for the fan too. I switched out to a finer glass bead and liking the look "as blasted":



The problem with having such a modest amount of shop space is you need to keep on top of things...... the shell is wrapped up while I make dust and overspray.

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Last edited by Jonny042; 11-24-2018 at 06:06 AM..
Old 11-24-2018, 06:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #383 (permalink)
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Lots of work lately, but sometimes it doesn't feel like a lot of progress.

I realized I haven't posted in a while though and the pics on my phone tell a story:

I raised the spindles on the struts 19mm and primed and painted them:



Blasted and cleaned and applied Cerakote MC-5100 Clear to the valve covers and hubs:





And also the rear trailing arms and front crossmember:

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Old 12-10-2018, 04:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #384 (permalink)
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The endless parade of shiny stuff continues:

Pretty soon I'll be able to assemble the suspension, waiting on stuff to be plated and a few other parts. In the meantime I did the final prep on the rear hubs and brake bits:







Looking forward to assembling the suspension as the parts are taking up a lot of room in boxes!
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #385 (permalink)
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At long last... MFI!!!

After years of all this kicking around in my head, work has finally begun on the MFI system. I've been accumulating parts, documentation, knowledge, tools, and equipment to make this all happen (and work!) the system will consist of:

- 911"T" throttle bodies enlarged to 40mm throttle plates, tapered to 38mm at the head

- small port SC heads ported to 38mm intake port, machined for MFI injectors

- 911"T" plastic stacks taper bored to 38mm bottom exit

- 911"T" pump converted to RS pump specs and calibrated for the 3.2SS motor

This weekend I started to work on the machining for the throttle bodies. The tricky part is the taper from 40 to 38mm but I ground a tool to make it happen and it's working out:



There is a big difference between the "T" throttles and mine!! They are going to have to flow more than twice the air to support the 250Hp target.....



Top:



Bottom:

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Old 12-10-2018, 04:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #386 (permalink)
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Nice work as usual. I wish I could see this car in person when completed. Thank you for sharing it here.
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Old 12-10-2018, 06:03 AM
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Whoa! What a difference between the throttle bodies. Heads next?
Keep up the good work.
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Old 12-10-2018, 06:49 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #388 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blee View Post
Whoa! What a difference between the throttle bodies. Heads next?
Keep up the good work.
Heads are in the list of things to be machined, along with the plastic stacks. I'll be opening up the ports to 38mm and blending in like you did to yours, and also machining for the MFI injector.

The plastic stacks are most definitely going to be the most challenging part of the induction system. I need to take them out to 38mm at the bottom and taper up to 45mm at the top. Sounds easy..... but like anything else, once you have (or make) the right tools, it happens in short order.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:49 AM
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Nice work. I can't wait to see the motor completed.

How are you going to mount the injectors?
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Old 12-10-2018, 08:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #390 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
Heads are in the list of things to be machined, along with the plastic stacks. I'll be opening up the ports to 38mm and blending in like you did to yours, and also machining for the MFI injector.

The plastic stacks are most definitely going to be the most challenging part of the induction system. I need to take them out to 38mm at the bottom and taper up to 45mm at the top. Sounds easy..... but like anything else, once you have (or make) the right tools, it happens in short order.
Curious; How do you make the right tool to do a taper bore like that? Do you cut down a bit with a lathe or ???
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
Curious; How do you make the right tool to do a taper bore like that? Do you cut down a bit with a lathe or ???
+1. I have always wondered how one would do a taper bore in the intake stacks. It will be interesting to see how that is done.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:19 AM
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+2. Interested to know.
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Old 12-10-2018, 03:33 PM
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Nice work. I can't wait to see the motor completed.

How are you going to mount the injectors?
I'll mill a hole and tap the intake spigot - there's plenty of material on the SC heads to do this. Just have to make sure there's clearance from the throttle body.
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:29 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #394 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
Curious; How do you make the right tool to do a taper bore like that? Do you cut down a bit with a lathe or ???
That's the plan at this point. Just trying to figure out how to accomplish it. Sometimes I wonder what I've gotten myself into. Then I remember if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

What I'm planning is to make a tapered ream to cut the appropriate taper in the stacks. It's a fairly slight taper but matches what I've read somewhere (David Vizard perhaps?) as optimum, around a 2% taper I think.

I'm not sure at this point if I'll have to first bore the stacks with a few parallel steps then ream, or if my planned ream/cutter will do the entire cut in on motion. The difference in time between the two methods would be measured in days....
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:35 AM
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Looking forward

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
That's the plan at this point. Just trying to figure out how to accomplish it. Sometimes I wonder what I've gotten myself into. Then I remember if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

What I'm planning is to make a tapered ream to cut the appropriate taper in the stacks. It's a fairly slight taper but matches what I've read somewhere (David Vizard perhaps?) as optimum, around a 2% taper I think.

I'm not sure at this point if I'll have to first bore the stacks with a few parallel steps then ream, or if my planned ream/cutter will do the entire cut in on motion. The difference in time between the two methods would be measured in days....
Jonny, really looking forward on your final steps to accomplish this taper. Since my intake adapters were individual, it seemed easier to machine the required taper on my lathe. (38-34mm)
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by acme911 View Post
Jonny, really looking forward on your final steps to accomplish this taper. Since my intake adapters were individual, it seemed easier to machine the required taper on my lathe. (38-34mm)
Not being that experienced a machinist, it never really occurred to my how problematic it is to make a tapered hole!! I am certainly finding out.

I asked several places local to me if they could do this job and I was met with a lot of blank stares. I left a stack with a CNC place (seemed to me a natural way to go about it) so they could give me a quote but after not hearing anything for a few months I went and retrieved it. Basically they told me it wasn't possible.....

Well that's not the right answer!!

I've been thinking about this for a long time so it's nice to be actually making some progress. Yesterday I made the holding fixture for the plastic stacks. This afternoon I will hopefully have a stack step-bored down it's length then reamed to a taper. Will report back!
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Old 12-12-2018, 05:36 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #397 (permalink)
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“Not possible “? That is definitely not the correct answer. Almost everything is possible, just have to think harder and find the right person.
Old 12-12-2018, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
Not being that experienced a machinist, it never really occurred to my how problematic it is to make a tapered hole!! I am certainly finding out.

I asked several places local to me if they could do this job and I was met with a lot of blank stares. I left a stack with a CNC place (seemed to me a natural way to go about it) so they could give me a quote but after not hearing anything for a few months I went and retrieved it. Basically they told me it wasn't possible.....

Well that's not the right answer!!

I've been thinking about this for a long time so it's nice to be actually making some progress. Yesterday I made the holding fixture for the plastic stacks. This afternoon I will hopefully have a stack step-bored down it's length then reamed to a taper. Will report back!
I'm not a machinist either, but have some experience in micro machining. A manual taper requires a taper boring head. The cutting tool is angled and thus created the taper. The workpiece is rotated, not the tool. I'm sure there are other solutions.
Old 12-12-2018, 06:35 AM
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I bored some MFI stacks recently. I ended up with a straight bore. I could not fixture the stacks well enough to cut with taper ream. The ream is the easy part. I just did not have enough room to jig the parts. I could not cut the taper by hand. Just some downward pressure on the ream due to tool weight was enough to prevent me from taking a cut.

The drill on an extension worked well. I cut in 2mm steps out to 38mm. be aware. That plastic (phenolic) is really hard and will bind easily. It will heat and expand at the cutting edge and then contract behind it binding the bit.

The throttle bodies are basically a plunge cut followed by a blend with a flap wheel.
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Old 12-12-2018, 07:17 AM
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