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A few tips for would be MFI pump calibrators, in case anyone is considering doing this at home:

- please please please don't use gasoline to test your pump. If you don't burn to death very quickly, you'll asphyxiate slowly or at the very least suffer brain damage from the fumes. Use calibration fluid. I bought a 5 gallon pail of it for $105 shipped, and added some fuel injector cleaner for no other reason than to add a bit of color so the readings are a bit easier. The test fluid smells suspiciously like mineral spirits, although it seems like it doesn't evaporate as quickly.

- if you get inconsistent and unpredictable readings, consider the possibility that the cheap-ass test tubes you bought on amazon aren't agreeing with each other about exactly how big a milliliter is. Of the 8 test tubes I bought only 3 were accurate within 1 ml when checked with water on a gram scale.

- it will drive you crazy if you let it. I adjusted cylinder #6 I bet 20 times before I got it.

- related to above - if you are brave enough to take your pump apart (honestly I wouldn't advise it for most normal, sane, people) make sure the control sleeves turn smoothly within the gear segment. Ideally they'll be easy to turn/adjust smoothly with the clamping screw turned a consistent number of turns, and you'll get to know this number. If a control sleeve is tough to turn, do whatever it might take to de-burr it etc. in order to rectify the issue, or it will make life difficult later. The required adjustments are very, very fine.

- Once you have the individual adjustment sleeves adjusted and are getting even flow rates, rely on the rack movement distance where you can. It relates to the injection amount in a linear fashion, and it's quicker to read the rack movement that doing yet another volume test.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:06 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #521 (permalink)
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Rod bearing woes continued

Quote:
Originally Posted by blee View Post
Too bad about the rod bearings... that's an expensive throwaway. What did you end up ordering? I hope you considered these:



Clevite Tri-Metal sourced from EBS.
I'm beginning to think I'm losing my mind - maybe rod bearing edges are supposed to be misaligned? The AA/Clevite bearings arrived and they too are too narrow for the rod/crank at 17.60mm.



Brian, when you look at the photo of your bearings it looks like yours could have the same issue - is the bearing offset towards the camera by a small amount? It's not something you would notice if you weren't looking for it, You'd put the rod on the crank, the cap on the rod, button it up, and go. At he end of the day it doesn't likely matter, and I'm getting to the point I'm going to give up looking for bearings that "fit".

I got the bearings from EBS, thinking I better buy them from a supplier who can provide expert opinion if I need to call. Plus they were $100 bucks cheaper than other places with free shipping and they arrived in 3 days.

So I called and talked to Don and he was willing to listen, is going to look at my pictures, and maybe talk to AA about it too. Time will tell and I will be sure to update with the news.
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:00 PM
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:04 PM
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Pretty Parts

Not sure how sick we are that we can get excited about VALVE COVERS!! But these found their way into my "To Cerakote" pile a while back and I finally got the mix of colors right. None of the off the shelf colours seemed to look right. Maybe you're not supposed to be able to mix cerakote colours but I'm a rebel. Basically I want them to look like they are "virgin" parts freshly bead blasted. I think I nailed it, finally.

These will be on Johan's RST soon enough (if winter ever ends!).....





I also did my big-bore 41mm throttle bodies in black. Not a totally correct colour but I like a bit of gloss so they don't show my greasy fingerprints. Just need to install the new bushings and assemble.



Parts back from the plater include bits for the throttle bodies so I can get on those in my spare time.

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Old 02-23-2019, 02:12 PM
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We have the technology.....

My next build is going to be called "The Six Million Dollar Car". Better, stronger, faster.

And shiner and better looking too.

It seems like every time I turn around I am figuring out how to do something new, which is entertaining and satisfying, although time consuming. My old fan centre was buggered up and butchered plus I wanted the early style fan hub/pulley for my MFI motor. The hub/pulley came from the UK, and after a bunch of searching I got rivets from Germany. I had to buy them in bulk which is a good thing because I went through quite a few figuring all this out but the results will be worth it in the end. Just a test piece so far since the zinc plating on the fan hub is kinda funny looking right now.











Those last two pics are just to prove to Johan that I was practicing on MY fan, not his!
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #525 (permalink)
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Colonel Sanders, can you provide your secret cerakote recipe? They look brand new. I prefer your suttle classy look which will stand the test of time.

Thanks & regards,

Frog76S

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Old 02-23-2019, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog76S View Post
Colonel Sanders, can you provide your secret cerakote recipe? They look brand new. I prefer your suttle classy look which will stand the test of time.

Thanks & regards,

Frog76S

I'm hesitant to answer because there are a lot more variables than just a recipe. Depending on your spray equipment etc. I think you could get different results. I did a lot of testing on old intake valves:









I got wise after spending hundreds of dollars on pint bottles ($60.00 for a pint, and $35.00 for a tester, I figured why not get the big size it's a better deal). Well all I found out is (A) - the Cerakote colour chart is not evenly remotely accurate and (B) - whoever dreams up their colors should be wearing a respirator cause not only do they not match the chart, some of them are just plain FUGLY. Maybe if your wardrobe consists mostly of camo they make sense but not for our use. PLUS the names are all out of whack. When I hear Satin I think flat. They mean glossy. Half of the colors have a puke green tinge to them. I could go on. I have a real love-hate relationship at this point with Cerakote, to be honest.

Anyway, I ended up mixing Burnt Bronze (which is actually quite striking, I can't wait to do some parts for my Trials Motorcycle in it) into satin aluminum (which is way too bright, looks like that cheap aluminum spray paint) to warm up the silver. In the range of 20-30%. But I'll warn you, your results will vary.

And please note - the fans are bead blasted, NOT cerakoted. I am still deciding what to do with them. The fans bead blast to that gorgeous color and is really what I'm trying to replicate. I might try Cerakote clear (see previous posts for that).
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:21 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #527 (permalink)
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Certainly more involved than I imagined, thanks. I’ve already documented your cerakote fan method complete with pics. Besides Mark Modgson (the fan refinish guru documented on this forum, sorry if spell incorrectly) your fan refinish is a close second and I plan on replicating it, regards!
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog76S View Post
Certainly more involved than I imagined, thanks. I’ve already documented your cerakote fan method complete with pics. Besides Mark Modgson (the fan refinish guru documented on this forum, sorry if spell incorrectly) your fan refinish is a close second and I plan on replicating it, regards!
I think it's Mark Motshagen, and yes, he does very, very, nice work. He seems to have landed on his own method for getting the finish he wants and it looks great.

Like I said, I have not done the final prep/finish on either of those fans. Got two housings back from welding (Thanks Ben!, MB911) so going to work on those this afternoon. The housings seem to be a different alloy than the fans and are prone to corrosion, so getting a nice finish is going to require some prep work (not that the fans didn't require quite a bit already).
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:34 AM
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Jonny, Just the right colour. And that smooooth finish.
Those riverts are outstanding.
Can’t wait to bolt everything onto the RST. Have to admit that it’s really cool to me to have something restored/improved by such an accomplished fellow Pelican. And a fellow Canadian to boot. Many thanks.
Johan
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Old 02-24-2019, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uwon View Post




Jonny, Just the right colour. And that smooooth finish.
Those riverts are outstanding.
Can’t wait to bolt everything onto the RST. Have to admit that it’s really cool to me to have something restored/improved by such an accomplished fellow Pelican. And a fellow Canadian to boot. Many thanks.
Johan
You're most welcome! Now that the housing is back from welding I had time to address what to do with the corrosion on it. I tried filling it with JB weld but wasn't happy with that so in the end just got rid of the corrosion entirely, as I think that will give the best result in the long term. Quite a few individual steps of varying grits of grinding/sanding discs:







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Last edited by Jonny042; 02-25-2019 at 04:43 AM..
Old 02-25-2019, 04:34 AM
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Finishing with sanding and finally by hand and then a media blast:





And then at long last! Coating!





With this rather discouraging result...... I didn't bother to set a timer for the flash over (supposed to be 15 minutes) and I guess I pushed it into the oven too fast and got bubbling.



Aargh! So now I have to remove the Cerakote. You really get an appreciation for how tough it is, how well it sticks, and how closely I got the colour to match.... when you have to remove it in the blasting cabinet. Oh well live and learn, I will not make that mistake again!
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Old 02-25-2019, 04:40 AM
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The fan had gone through a similar finish process:







With the same disappointment in the oven:

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Old 02-25-2019, 04:49 AM
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Aargh!
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
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Aargh!
Haha! I was pretty frustrated..... but got over it.

I always like to remind myself - if that's the worst thing to happen to me all week, life is pretty good!!!
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:16 AM
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Success! Finally.

Well Johan's parts are packed and shipped and making their way to sunny Muskoka!



Pretty sure I identified the trouble with the bubbling during curing as too heavy a film thickness, and not enough flash time, and maybe too much heat too fast.

I revisited my old razor blade test and got a post-bake film coating thickness of .0008-.0009 so that's good. I realize I was laying it on way too thick, trying to get a wet coat. If anything this round went the other way but I figure that best.





My secret is to flash-cure the coating for a bit so I can handle it (say, for instance, flip it over and do the front, etc. I use my IR paint curing lamp for this. Parts like throttle bodies, etc. get hung, sprayed, pre-cured till they are safe to handle, then given the full bake. Cerakote guidelines exist for this in case you want to do stenciling, masking, etc. but it's handy for things you don't want to hang. It's hard enough trying to get even coverage on a cooling fan without it spaying around in the breeze.



Last, but not least, I think I have the riveting thing nailed.



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Old 02-26-2019, 01:42 PM
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I've been putting this job off and couldn't any more.... I got the valve guides removed last night and spent most of today performing various feats of exhaust stud removal.

Previous builder had cut the studs off to fit thin flange SSI's and not done it very artfully.... my Snap-on stud remover works absolute wonders but won't get the outer exhaust stud because the body is too big. So all the usual tricks, but I ended up having to drill 4 of them out. Note the left hand drill. I managed to not mangle anything!!









The six heads are as bare as they are going to get, I have to finish cleaning them up and then some slightly more fun work - I need to build a fixture to hold them in the lathe to face the cylinder sealing surface, weld up the CIS injector notch, port the intakes, drill/tap for MFI injectors and probably several other things that haven't occurred to me yet.

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Old 02-27-2019, 05:06 PM
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Delicious work, and thanks for showing us those tasks that didn't go right the first time. John.
Old 02-27-2019, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
I'm beginning to think I'm losing my mind - maybe rod bearing edges are supposed to be misaligned? The AA/Clevite bearings arrived and they too are too narrow for the rod/crank at 17.60mm.



Brian, when you look at the photo of your bearings it looks like yours could have the same issue - is the bearing offset towards the camera by a small amount? It's not something you would notice if you weren't looking for it, You'd put the rod on the crank, the cap on the rod, button it up, and go. At he end of the day it doesn't likely matter, and I'm getting to the point I'm going to give up looking for bearings that "fit".

I got the bearings from EBS, thinking I better buy them from a supplier who can provide expert opinion if I need to call. Plus they were $100 bucks cheaper than other places with free shipping and they arrived in 3 days.

So I called and talked to Don and he was willing to listen, is going to look at my pictures, and maybe talk to AA about it too. Time will tell and I will be sure to update with the news.
Well there's been some closure with this - indeed, ALL 3.0L (and compatible, ie, GT3) conrod bearings do indeed measure approx 17.60mm in width. There does seem to be some slight variation in locating notch position, leading to the misalignment. Even .5mm in each notch leads to 1mm offset in the bearings, which looks like a lot, but I guess in the grand scheme of things isn't that important.

So now we all know...... and I have decided to keep and use the AA/clevite bearings since they are the ones I have on hand now. This was an expensive and time consuming exercise!

If I had to do it all over (which I will, but not on this motor!!) I would use the Glyco GT3 bearings. They were quality items and the price was reasonable. I'm sorry, but $300 for rod bearings for a 6 cylinder is a bit dear, even in Porsha-land!
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Old 02-27-2019, 05:33 PM
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Having my heads examined

Early going, but started on building a fixture for resurfacing heads. It's coming along. I am locating off the dowels that register on the cam towers. My intention is to be able to leave the fixture in the lathe (dialed in for runout in all axis) and machine all 6 heads one after the other, keeping them parallel to the cam towers, and equal height to each other.

This stuff is fun.... and time consuming. I'm learning a lot. Luckily I have a junk head to play with and use for fixture making etc.









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Old 03-01-2019, 08:00 AM
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