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Also, while I was polishing, I cleaned up my Signal Yellow decklid and Bahama Yellow Fender. They can often look similar in pictures to me.

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Old 12-21-2017, 04:57 PM
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I'm loving these updates! I don't know how I missed it, but wow!!! That's some impressive metalwork you have done!!
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Old 12-21-2017, 05:12 PM
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I've finally had some time to get to the shop and get back at it. -30 here this morning so it's a good time of the year to hole up in the shop and get something done!

I have a VERY, VERY, VERY long way to go, but couldn't resist undertaking some re-assembly. Love the way the light plays off the surface of these cars.

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Old 12-27-2017, 07:41 AM
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So much talent, keep it up.
Old 12-27-2017, 08:42 AM
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Love the attention to detail, no shortcuts which is good to see😎
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Fixing the broken bits in the garage or ragging around the track
Old 12-27-2017, 11:58 AM
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Thanks everyone for the kind words..... they really help when I feel like no matter how much time I put in, I can't seem to move the pointer forward.

One thing that's really been getting me down is nailing down a process to rid my paint of the "urethane wave" that I'm getting, even after 4 steps of sanding and 3 steps of polishing. Tonight I think I got it! I've got to do a first step of (wet) block sanding with a coarser grit before moving onto the finishing steps.

I was refining this quarter tonight:



It's got a long way to go but looking really good. Obviously photos can't really capture it. Also, earlier today I sanded and polished the left drip rail. Although I tried to get a nice, wet, flowing coat of paint on the drip rails (but without runs!!) it still cant compare to "perfected" paint thats been flattened and polished. The left drip rail looks and feels like it's from a different planet!! I tried to capture it in a pic but there's no way.
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:18 PM
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This came up in discussion on Munky King's build thread:

'75 build (time) to infinity... and beyond!

So I thought I 'd post them here. This actually relates to my "Heavy Metal" reference, which is really a nod to the fact the car will be quite the opposite! I've been choosing aluminum for panels where it's practical , especially in the rear. A weight comparison is interesting:

Steel:



Fiberglass:



Aluminum:



Steel:



Aluminum:

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Old 12-30-2017, 06:53 AM
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Some lightweight stuff there for sure. What is the trick for getting the paint to bond to the aluminium properly?
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Old 12-30-2017, 01:42 PM
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Aluminum is a PITA to paint properly. It will naturally create a oxide layer starting immediately after being exposed to oxygen (air) to protect itself. It's important to create a conversion layer with chromium oxide or similar or it will corrode under any paint that is applied. I don't currently know what is available for use, but with Ford and Chrysler's new aluminum vehicles, as well as Audi's, there must be a relatively non-toxic method that works well.
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan9eleven View Post
Some lightweight stuff there for sure. What is the trick for getting the paint to bond to the aluminium properly?
Modern epoxies stick like poop to a wool blanket. Use good product and you shouldn't have to overthink it.

The RM EP series primer bonds well to galvanized steel and aluminum - I feel surface prep is important, I sanded the decklid with a fairly coarse grit (180 IIRC) to provide some mechanical adhesion. The epoxy provides a layer impenetrable to moisture and oxygen to prevent oxidization. You cant really do much more than that.

If I had an entire aluminum body to paint I might have searched out a zinc rich primer but it's just a decklid, and I decided to trust in what my paint supplier (and the paint manufacturer) recommends.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:17 AM
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Good advise so far.

Ask your paint supplier about the need to treat the aluminum before painting. There is a conversion chemical, phosphoric acid, that is used to chemically remove any oxidation and etch the metal for good adhesion before painting.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:04 AM
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Also good advise

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackrash View Post
Good advise so far.

Ask your paint supplier about the need to treat the aluminum before painting. There is a conversion chemical, phosphoric acid, that is used to chemically remove any oxidation and etch the metal for good adhesion before painting.
This looks like good advice as well. In particular if you didn't want to heavily sand the aluminum prior to the epoxy.

Not related to the decklid, but my paint supplier and I discussed the use of RM 801 treatment on the galvanized steel body when I stripped it but I took different steps to prevent oxidization. Keep in mind the relative humidity in my shop is less than 25% and I took great pains to not leave any galvanized steel panels exposed to the air for more that a couple hours. He's seen more issues related to the improper application and subsequent cleanup of the treatment and didn't think it was necessary in my case.
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Old 01-01-2018, 06:38 AM
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Some more lightweight parts.......... there was more than 15 pounds savings in this area, in the absolute best place to lose weight on the 911.

I don't really have a weight goal for the car, but am doing what I can, within the confines of the overall design.







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Old 01-01-2018, 06:47 AM
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What did you use for tail light housings? Four and a half pounds is fairly significant for a couple small items. Mind you I could lay off the ice cream for a bit and achieve a similar result...
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1987 ROW coupe, Marine blue, with a couple extra goodies.

The cars we love the best are the ones with human traits, warts and all.
Old 01-01-2018, 08:02 AM
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Subscribed! Awesome craftsmanship and pure patience.
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Old 01-01-2018, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada Kev View Post
What did you use for tail light housings? Four and a half pounds is fairly significant for a couple small items. Mind you I could lay off the ice cream for a bit and achieve a similar result...
They are the plastic units available at a few vendors in the UK and also at least one in the states. If you google "911 lightweight taillight housings" you should find them easily enough.

They are not plug and play, and were it not for the weight savings I probably wouldn't bother with them. I think I had to actually tap them for 4mm threads to accept the lenses and that feels a bit hokey - thinking I might have to machine a threaded insert for them and glue them in.

It's hard to argue against removing weight at the extreme rearend of the car, so far back from the axle - when you pick up one of the original housings you can definitely see why they used the fiberglass parts in the 911R.
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:39 AM
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Back to the backdate

Sorry all, got distracted by shiny parts and forgot I was supposed to be documenting my backdate.....

One thing that drives me nuts is the fact that impact bumper cars have longer jack receiver tubes than longhoods. It becomes really obvious when the rocker cover is removed. You can also remove the brackets it screws to (on the drivers side at least...... you'll be sorry if you take them off the passenger side )



Not picking on Dave - he's built some REALLY nice cars!!! But I bet he has scars on his shins.....

I trimmed mine to pre 74 specs. Well actually I just did what I thought looked right.




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Old 01-02-2018, 04:58 PM
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Taillight supports

In order to properly support and locate the rear bumper seals, there is a lip on the bottom of longhood taillight frames. There are various approaches used to locate/retain this seal, some people make a new lip and attach it, some people use two way tape to stick the seal to the bumper, some builds just leave it out entirely.

In addition to the seal retention issue, the shape of the stamping where it meets the body is different on the early cars.

First I removed the reflector panel spot welds.







In this pic you can see the difference between the frames:



The reproduction frames weren't great. I had to drill out the spot welds holding them together as they weren't even close to being right. The stanpings are accurate, but I swear the component parts were put together by eye, and not very well. You can imaging how much time all this took. When you're done imagining, multiply that by about 5, and you might come close......$##$@^%&!!!


And yes, the laser level was used to make sure everything is "just so"



I must have been consumed by frustration and forgot to take "during" pics. Here they are "after" endless hours of farting around.


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Old 01-04-2018, 06:23 AM
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Just... wow...

i don't have any of the skills being shown here, let alone i'd build my own car. But a backdate remains a dream of mine and i like going through a detailed topic like this one.
So cool to see the level of detail you are putting into this thing and even more, the fact you are sharing all of it with us. Thanks and good luck with it!
Old 01-05-2018, 12:34 AM
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Stunningly beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-05-2018, 06:00 AM
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