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Handy hint

I've had the doors on and off my car dozens of times. I put the hinge pins in loosely, by hand, each time, but they can be a little hard to pull out after. My solution gives me just a enough extra purchase on the pins so I don't have to go find a hammer (Edit - waiting for the comments on my personal hygiene... specifically my need to moisturize!)



I've also tried to protect the paint as I go along.

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Last edited by Jonny042; 01-12-2018 at 07:22 AM..
Old 01-12-2018, 07:11 AM
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Rock and a hard place.

On one hand I must continue to read this thread for all the inspiration of work done at such a high level.

On the other hand I shouldn't read it at all because there is no way any build I do will ever live up to this. I guess I just have to accept that the non-shiny parts of my car will never actually be clean and nice. There is an underside for a reason, I tell myself.

Seriously beautiful work, and I completely agree with the choice of a galvanized later car to transform. Its enough hard work without also quilting together a car from a rustbucket. Great work!
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Old 01-12-2018, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan9eleven View Post
Rock and a hard place.

On one hand I must continue to read this thread for all the inspiration of work done at such a high level.

On the other hand I shouldn't read it at all because there is no way any build I do will ever live up to this. I guess I just have to accept that the non-shiny parts of my car will never actually be clean and nice. There is an underside for a reason, I tell myself.

Seriously beautiful work, and I completely agree with the choice of a galvanized later car to transform. Its enough hard work without also quilting together a car from a rustbucket. Great work!
Thanks!! Not every build has to be so over the top - there is a lot to be said for leaving some things well enough alone and driving and enjoying the damn thing!

It has occurred to me that I'm spending a lot of time fixing things that weren't really broken in the first place
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Old 01-14-2018, 05:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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Going all the way.......

So I got ahead of myself a bit. I tried, I really did - I was going to throw some paint on the fenders, prime the other stuff that needed it, bolt on my lovely satiny aluminum deck lid, and shift my attention to building a motor. I got this far:















Let me tell you, the car looked pretty kick-ass, in a vaguely outlawish kind of way. Not to mention the groovy interior. But then.......
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:59 PM
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Then this happened

I found a dime sized piece of surface rust under the windshield seal. So I removed the windshield. Then in order to fix it properly I decided I needed to remove the dash. Then it seemed like I may as well strip the paint from the cowl, and......





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Last edited by Jonny042; 01-16-2018 at 05:23 PM..
Old 01-16-2018, 05:07 PM
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Lol.
I like your style!
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:09 PM
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Not much to say. This is about as much fun as it looks.















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Old 01-16-2018, 05:15 PM
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Keep it covered

I did what I could to make sure I left no bare metal open to the atmosphere for more than a shift. Seemed like the right thing to do....













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Old 01-16-2018, 05:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #108 (permalink)
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Oh man... this is exactly why it is said you often do a more meticulous job when you DIY.
Old 01-22-2018, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw_singer View Post
Oh man... this is exactly why it is said you often do a more meticulous job when you DIY.
Yes, it's true, it helps not to be accountable for a budget, or a schedule!! No need to cheap out or take shortcuts.

Mind you, we haven't really gotten to the meticulous stuff yet!!!
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Old 01-22-2018, 05:58 AM
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Once the body was stripped and coated with the first coat of epoxy, it came time to start fitting panels. Not a 5 minute job, especially if you are striving for something closer to perfection than the factory could achieve (see above post about schedules and budgets!).

My aim was always to build the car so it looks flawless and straight - and this includes blocking all the panels and the entire car together, as a unit. I can't even begin to describe how time consuming this is, at this point - putting straight edges up against body gaps to make sure everything is at the same plane, and making adjustments. Adjust one thing and it affects two others, etc.

I remember spending an entire day working on getting the hood alignment right. And at the end of the day didn't really feel like I got it.

Of course the laser level made an appearance.
















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Old 01-22-2018, 06:35 AM
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Those gaps are so consistent. And those hood and lid corners are beyond perfect. I’m amazed how you even got the gap closed up where the front fender panhandle meets the door just above the mirror holes. Friggin awesome Jonnny.
Cheers,
Johan
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Old 01-23-2018, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uwon View Post
Those gaps are so consistent. And those hood and lid corners are beyond perfect. Iím amazed how you even got the gap closed up where the front fender panhandle meets the door just above the mirror holes. Friggin awesome Jonnny.
Cheers,
Johan
Thanks!!! - Actually these pics are after the panel alignment, but before I got picky with the gaps

Lots of cursing and swearing and hammering and welding and grinding and just about every other trick in the book! Days turned into weeks......

The pan handle gap you refer to was a real pain - I ended up adding quite a bit of metal to the panhandle on both sides to get it to fit.

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Old 01-23-2018, 05:53 AM
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One thing that I did at the trial fitment stage was to stand the chassis at the front torsion bar fittings and by the rear torsion bar tubes, then added about 400 lbs to the seating area. Lots of flex and surprisingly did a good job of approximating the final mating of the panels.
Johan
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Last edited by Uwon; 01-24-2018 at 04:38 AM..
Old 01-23-2018, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uwon View Post
One thing that I did at the trial fitment stage was to stand the chassis at the front torsion bar fittings and by the rear torsion bar tubes, then added about 400 lbs to the seating area. Lots of flex and surprisingly did a good job of approximating the final mating of the panels.
Johan
It won't suprise you to hear that I have thought a lot about this!! Usually when I should be sleeping.....

I won't lock down the final alignment until the car is substantially assembled and on the ground, but I am secretly hoping I don't have to disturb the door hinges and the paint on the bolts, and also the hood to cowl alignment. Everything else can move around a bit.

Were you able to quantify the changes you had to make when you added the weight?

I did end up shimming my doors up a bit at the rear by adding .5mm of shim to the bottom hinges. It occurred to me that maybe I'd end up having to take them out later.
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Old 01-24-2018, 06:48 AM
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The most noticeable change in my car were the doors. The 400 pounds added did bind the latches a bit so I added so every thin shims on both bottom hinges. When I took the weights out, you guessed it, the latches did bind in the opposite direction. When ire-assembled the body after painting, I re-installed the same shims which did bind a bit while the car was up on jacks. Can’t recall if things changed as I installed the running gear, motor and front end. It all went away when the wheels hit terra firma. A year and half later now and I notice that I’ll have to put another very thin shim on the bottom of the passenger door.
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:27 AM
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By the way, I notice that you are painting the door hinge bolts the way the factory did. So I can understand why you want to get it right before final paint. In my case, seeing that my build is intentionally a hot rod with a personal interpretation, I opted to instal shinny new yellow sink bolts which remain unpainted in anticipation that I might have to adjust.
Cheers,
Johan
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Old 01-25-2018, 08:00 PM
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I'd take shiny bolts over battered paint any day! Indeed, I do have a backup plan...... incorporating a nod to the earlier (pre 71?) 12 pt hinge bolts.

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Old 01-26-2018, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny042 View Post
I'd take shiny bolts over battered paint any day! Indeed, I do have a backup plan...... incorporating a nod to the earlier (pre 71?) 12 pt hinge bolts.

Damn, where were you with this pic 2 weeks ago when I was dealing with painted bolts and washers! LOL. I like the look of those bolts. Very cool 😎 From ECS I guess? Mark
Old 01-26-2018, 07:18 AM
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Sorry!! I haven't ordered any, actually I just did a google image search for "triple square m8 bolt" and this one caught my eye. It's a VW Part number available from our host, too:

N90-823-203-VAG

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=N90823203
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:36 AM
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