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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb911 View Post
Unfortunately its all about who welds it..
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill
Old 12-15-2017, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wjdunham View Post
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill
Thats what I have heard/read too. Not just from Mark but from some of the discussion on the linked earlier threads. Apparently the 3.0-3.2 housings are simply inferior quality-wise to the earlier ones.

Since my fan seems repairable and the housing is a crapshoot (as far as if new cracks will show up) I am thinking source a used 102.0R replacement or an earlier 901.106.101.5R but then I am not sure my alternator will swap over and the pulleys line up correctly. Chart below says alternator lengths and "shroud depth (1)" are the same so it sounds promising as long as the alt bolt pattern and seating bore are the same.



Thanks everyone for the feedback so far!
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjdunham View Post
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill

I am not sure whom Mark is or his back ground but in my experience its all in the prep..
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Discseven View Post
Jose... Sonnen Porsche may have OEM fan and housing for $765 total. I got a few fans from them. All good.

Am using aluminum housing from Vertex. Think it was $565 when I got it. Just looked at their site... they're now getting $949. for it.
I will check out Sonnen Porsche, thanks!

Regarding the Vertex housing price, I get that demand has probably spiked, but come on now.
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:57 AM
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I have been slowly working on a mold for these. The problem is expense..

To cast the part its less then 100 but the mold and machining are crazy..
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Old 12-16-2017, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
If your not looking for a permanent concours solution, you could get jb weld aluminum putty and gusset both sides after sanding. Will hold for a long time and the putty is the same color as aged magnesium...

This is not the same as jb weld...
Sounds good to me given this is not a weight bearing part as long as the housing holds its shape. The fan housing in the 3.0 has a small crack on the top probably from an overtightened shroud. The fins are fine.

Is this the product you are referring to ?

https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-putty-sticks/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick
SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick

There's also this Hy-Poxy H-450 Alumbond 6.5 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit.
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:39 AM
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Maybe not a contributing factor, but suggest making sure the drive belt tension isn't excessive. This can place additional stress on connected parts.

Sherwood
Old 02-10-2018, 09:00 AM
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[QUOTE=pmax;9920505]Sounds good to me given this is not a weight bearing part as long as the housing holds its shape.

Have you weighed an alternator lately? Not to mention the pulley stress on the other end. I think they come under a lot of stress.
I would go the weld route - with a pro - like mb911.
Regards
Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
Have you weighed an alternator lately? Not to mention the pulley stress on the other end. I think they come under a lot of stress.
I would go the weld route - with a pro - like mb911.
Regards
Alan
The failure is in the same place as this housing here (not mine).

I would think the bolt is the leading cause of the stress crack. Does it serve any purpose other than to secure the shroud to the fan ?

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Old 02-10-2018, 06:43 PM
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The earlier pics showed a different crack - where the alternator supports meet the housing.
But either way the cracks have to be caused by stress. If you want to repair it, I would go the weld route. You have a lot of weight suspended in the center of the housing, plus loads from the crank pulley, plus vibrations from the fan and pulley belt etc.
regards
Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax View Post
The failure is in the same place as this housing here (not mine).

I would think the bolt is the leading cause of the stress crack. Does it serve any purpose other than to secure the shroud to the fan ?

Send it to Ben/MB911.
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Old 02-11-2018, 10:06 AM
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Yes, heard you both. Not interested in shipping this for now.

Any idea on my question ?
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax View Post
Yes, heard you both. Not interested in shipping this for now.

Any idea on my question ?
Correct, pNutz - those type bosses are for the fan shroud and the heater air ducting, and JB Weld (the regular, slow cure type - not the putty kind that dowsn't work itself into the small cracks very well - sounds kinky, I know!!!) works perfectly on those type cracks (especially if you stop-drill the crack where it ends - drill all the way through with a tiny drill bit - such as 1/16" or 5/64"). I also know from experience that JB works great on minor cracking of the actual support spars if the cracks are stop-drilled there, as well.
Old 02-12-2018, 10:12 AM
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Just to update this thread having removed the unit.

Turns out the fan housing ribs are giving way. It wasn't the shroud causing this.

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Old 03-12-2018, 07:30 PM
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Welding mag fan housings

Found cracks in my 88 fan housing. Went and spoke with Jay at Jay's Precision Machine Shop in Santa Clara, Ca. Jay does tons of work for Jerry Woods, Engine Builders etc. Jay and I have known one another for about 40 years and have become friends.
Jay had me grind out all of the corrosion. He would not weld it until I showed all good metal. Hairline cracks were not acceptable. Thin metal was not acceptable. The holes got bigger and bigger. Yes, it is all in the preparation.
Jay is an amazing machinist and welder of both aluminum and magnesium.
Jay sat there for 2 hours filling in the holes by puddle welding.
After he was done it was up to me to finish the housing, grind down the metal and get it where it was acceptable. I used a die grinder and then sanded it down until there was no interference with the fan and welded area. $150 that was well spent.
Could have gotten an early housing from Parts Heaven and have him open up the area for the alternator to fit, but thought this was better. $$ saved.
If you do not get all of the corrosion out, the welding will 'bubble' and make a mess.
Did not take before and after pics. Included are finished pics, and one can see how much corrosion was in there. Note: The finish product is by me. The welding by Jay was flawless.
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Old 04-01-2018, 04:24 PM
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Beware of the VErtex units. They dont fit. Several threads about them, concluding one I had. They are aluminum, and unless they ahve fixed their casting, they do not fit on the block right. They sit too high, and much be ground to fit.

Heard the Carpoint ones are good, I will be getting one for my Anniverary car (has a crappy VErtex one now).

I would trust Ben implicitly to weld mine if I need it. His welding is second to none, and he give great customer service.
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Old 04-01-2018, 06:54 PM
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On a separate thing about Vertex. Had them do a PPI on my 88. Specifically asked about rust and condition of the clutch. Was told that there was no rust and the clutch was fine. Car sat while I dealt with heart issues. Long story short, clutch was shot and there was rust under the battery and across the front tank support. Tank was eaten into as well. $4K for rust repair and $3K clutch. Another $4K for broken head studs. Vertex is not my favorite place. Stick with Pelican or get and older fan housing and have it opened up to fit newer alternators.


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Old 04-01-2018, 11:16 PM
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...

Last edited by wjdunham; 05-11-2018 at 01:32 PM.. Reason: already replied
Old 05-11-2018, 01:30 PM
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SRT,
I will contact Jay's Precision Shop to see if they can fix my housing. A local shop like that is perfect. However ...

Bill/WJDunham,
I tend to agree with your assessment. The housing (from my 80) is cracked in more than one area, the fan shroud bolt location and the rib as I have shown above, so it may well be a lost cause. There was no weird noise or vibration when it was running.
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Last edited by pmax; 05-11-2018 at 01:47 PM..
Old 05-11-2018, 01:44 PM
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Velios did mine

$75 Magnesium Fan Housing Fix (Pics) Vellios Machine Shop, Lawndale, California
Sorry freakin Photobucket hijacked my pics

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Old 05-12-2018, 09:07 PM
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