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Originally Posted by mb911 View Post
Unfortunately its all about who welds it..
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill
Old 12-15-2017, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wjdunham View Post
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill
Thats what I have heard/read too. Not just from Mark but from some of the discussion on the linked earlier threads. Apparently the 3.0-3.2 housings are simply inferior quality-wise to the earlier ones.

Since my fan seems repairable and the housing is a crapshoot (as far as if new cracks will show up) I am thinking source a used 102.0R replacement or an earlier 901.106.101.5R but then I am not sure my alternator will swap over and the pulleys line up correctly. Chart below says alternator lengths and "shroud depth (1)" are the same so it sounds promising as long as the alt bolt pattern and seating bore are the same.



Thanks everyone for the feedback so far!
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjdunham View Post
What I was told by Mark M. was that on the later magnesium housings the metallurgy was so bad that while they could be welded they would not hold up and would crack elsewhere. He recommended against welding mine as a result. The earlier magnesium housings can be welded and will hold up, but they tend to not fail in the first place.

Bill

I am not sure whom Mark is or his back ground but in my experience its all in the prep..
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Discseven View Post
Jose... Sonnen Porsche may have OEM fan and housing for $765 total. I got a few fans from them. All good.

Am using aluminum housing from Vertex. Think it was $565 when I got it. Just looked at their site... they're now getting $949. for it.
I will check out Sonnen Porsche, thanks!

Regarding the Vertex housing price, I get that demand has probably spiked, but come on now.
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:57 AM
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I have been slowly working on a mold for these. The problem is expense..

To cast the part its less then 100 but the mold and machining are crazy..
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Current project 73 914-6 Gt project rusteration 2.4
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
If your not looking for a permanent concours solution, you could get jb weld aluminum putty and gusset both sides after sanding. Will hold for a long time and the putty is the same color as aged magnesium...

This is not the same as jb weld...
Sounds good to me given this is not a weight bearing part as long as the housing holds its shape. The fan housing in the 3.0 has a small crack on the top probably from an overtightened shroud. The fins are fine.

Is this the product you are referring to ?

https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-putty-sticks/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick
SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick

There's also this Hy-Poxy H-450 Alumbond 6.5 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit.
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Old 02-09-2018, 12:39 PM
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Maybe not a contributing factor, but suggest making sure the drive belt tension isn't excessive. This can place additional stress on connected parts.

Sherwood
Old 02-10-2018, 10:00 AM
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[QUOTE=pmax;9920505]Sounds good to me given this is not a weight bearing part as long as the housing holds its shape.

Have you weighed an alternator lately? Not to mention the pulley stress on the other end. I think they come under a lot of stress.
I would go the weld route - with a pro - like mb911.
Regards
Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
Have you weighed an alternator lately? Not to mention the pulley stress on the other end. I think they come under a lot of stress.
I would go the weld route - with a pro - like mb911.
Regards
Alan
The failure is in the same place as this housing here (not mine).

I would think the bolt is the leading cause of the stress crack. Does it serve any purpose other than to secure the shroud to the fan ?

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Old 02-10-2018, 07:43 PM
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The earlier pics showed a different crack - where the alternator supports meet the housing.
But either way the cracks have to be caused by stress. If you want to repair it, I would go the weld route. You have a lot of weight suspended in the center of the housing, plus loads from the crank pulley, plus vibrations from the fan and pulley belt etc.
regards
Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax View Post
The failure is in the same place as this housing here (not mine).

I would think the bolt is the leading cause of the stress crack. Does it serve any purpose other than to secure the shroud to the fan ?

Send it to Ben/MB911.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:06 AM
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Yes, heard you both. Not interested in shipping this for now.

Any idea on my question ?
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax View Post
Yes, heard you both. Not interested in shipping this for now.

Any idea on my question ?
Correct, pNutz - those type bosses are for the fan shroud and the heater air ducting, and JB Weld (the regular, slow cure type - not the putty kind that dowsn't work itself into the small cracks very well - sounds kinky, I know!!!) works perfectly on those type cracks (especially if you stop-drill the crack where it ends - drill all the way through with a tiny drill bit - such as 1/16" or 5/64"). I also know from experience that JB works great on minor cracking of the actual support spars if the cracks are stop-drilled there, as well.
Old 02-12-2018, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
Correct, pNutz - those type bosses are for the fan shroud and the heater air ducting, and JB Weld (the regular, slow cure type - not the putty kind that dowsn't work itself into the small cracks very well - sounds kinky, I know!!!) works perfectly on those type cracks (especially if you stop-drill the crack where it ends - drill all the way through with a tiny drill bit - such as 1/16" or 5/64"). I also know from experience that JB works great on minor cracking of the actual support spars if the cracks are stop-drilled there, as well.
Got it.

I bet a plastic or rubber plug (!!!) or screw would work just as well in holding down the shroud and not lead to a cracked housing.

Wouldn't work for the grounding points obviously.
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Last edited by pmax; 02-14-2018 at 10:16 AM..
Old 02-12-2018, 10:39 PM
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