HELP! Which side of axle is which??

[Queefchief]

I purchased replacement axles and noticed they are slightly different on each side. One side purtrudes more as the other is flat. Which side goes to the trans and/or stub axle?? I’ll attach pics of each side. Thanks everyone!!


Protruding side:
https://flic.kr/p/29uJj6S



Flat side:
https://flic.kr/p/MrcxUs

[Pazuzu]

Take the protruding side, grab it firmly, and pull outwards (away from the axle). It will now be like the other side.

The CV joint can float about 2 inches on the axle. You'll want them both pressed in to get into place.

[Queefchief]

Don’t mind me just a bit slow... lol thank you so much!

[bkreigsr]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msa5ua7kZmQ

[Queefchief]

Lol good news is they are in and work as they should!!

[Queefchief]

Now what I could ask “probably another dumb question” what are the torque specs for the stub axle nut? I just have them snug and they seem fine but once I tighten them they are too tight and bind? Is that normal or do a maybe have a bearing issue or something going on?

[brighton911]

What year is your car? Torque specs for the axle with a M20 castellated nut (with cotter key) is 225 ft lbs, for the M22 self lock nut (like my 86) it's a whopping 340 ft lbs. So just snug is far from proper no matter what style you have. You didn't happen to pull the flange plate off (the one with the wheel studs)? If so, then it's bearing time.

[Queefchief]

1980 SC is the car. It has a castle nut with cotter key but I think the nut was a 30? I pressed new bearing in but maybe I messed that up in the process

[Queefchief]

Car rolls as it should with the axles out. Axles in worked but again def no where near 225 I would imagine. Once “tight” the car felt like it had the e-brake on!

[Sboxin]

Originally Posted by Queefchief

Car rolls as it should with the axles out. Axles in worked but again def no where near 225 I would imagine. Once “tight” the car felt like it had the e-brake on!

What other work did you do on the rear trailing arm, bearings, brakes, etc.?

It may be possible that the bearing didn't press all the way into the arm - or if you
replaced rotors they may be rubbing . . . we had to put shims in calipers to match new rotors . . .

Photos of your work might help also?

Regards,

[universeman]

Schnorr washers are highly recommended here on reassembly...

[brighton911]

FYI, when a size is stated for any fastener, it's the diameter of the threaded part that is quoted, not the nut.
Anyway, I second the theory the bearing is probably not fully seated. Most times one needs to use a stout threaded rod with appropriate flanges to pull the outer race in. You must never seat a bearing by applying force the inner race. Good luck.

[DemianM]

also make sure that the allen bolts are not too long with the new axles...the boots change sometimes, are thinner, so the bolts protude at the back and rub on the banana arms....

since you have an 80 SC with the smaller CV joints, I recommend you get some of these and schnoor washers to tighten all up, otherwise these axles tend to come loose:



These are standard on laters cars, but use 10 mm bolts...

[OldSpool87]

^ just to clarify, the picture above shows moons plates and not schorr washers. The moon plates distribute clamping force and the Schorr washers keep the bolts tight.

[DemianM]

Yes, thanks !! I could not remember the name...make sure that there is no grease on the mating surface between the cv joint and the stub axle or transmisión output

[Queefchief]

Will def give all this advice a looking into. I had rebuild everything so all is new. Bearings, rotors, calipers, etc. Thanks for the help everyone! I will definitely track down this issue and resolve