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New leak after oil change / replacing sump plate gaskets and washer

Hello everyone,

A few weeks ago I did my first oil change on my '80 SC Targa (ha - first time I've done an oil change at home since around 1991...). I replaced the two gaskets and washer on the sump plate and of course the washer on the oil tank. The nuts on the sump plate were really difficult to get off. They all came off, except for one, where the bolt actually came out as well. Since the bolt was threaded and didn't seem to have loosened from the nut, I put it back in. I can't find the technical article now, but I did follow the advice from our host and tightened the sump plate nuts with a torque wrench to 6 ft-lbs.

Since it was done I have noticed a small leak from the sump plate. See the pictures below. We had some snow and cold weather here in Portland right after so I haven't driven much. I did get to drive it last Sunday and check the oil afterward - no appreciable difference. Is this something to worry about? Should I just keep driving and keep a close eye on the oil level? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Todd




Old 03-07-2018, 04:56 AM
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That's annoying. Seems like a decent enough leak to warrant a re-do. Though in my case, I'd opt for fresh oil. I know a lot of people would probably re-use the oil if they are careful. The reason I say this is because the cost. It's a 50-100 dollar mistake if you count new oil. :-) On my car (and yours looks similar) I think I remember there being two gaskets.

In addition to the aluminum crush washer for the drain plug, you have three things to replace. Two gaskets and the crush washer on the plug. (well and all new nuts and washers for the sump cover)

Did you re-use the nuts? I can't remember if they are nylock or use a crush washer as well. Either way replace with new hardware.

Here's what I would do:

Start over, drain the oil, take off the cover, lock tight the loose stud back in or just make sure it's snug. Don't over tighten it on the mag case.

Inspect both gaskets and replace if necessary. Clean the mating surfaces religiously. Repaint the sump cover, install new nuts AND new washers (come to think of it, those are mini aluminum crush washers there too if I remember correctly)

Tighten by hand in a star pattern. DO NOT overtighten and I wouldn't torque them. I would do it by feel, snug is all you need. If you over tighten that can lead to leaks.

Edit: Found a pic of mine: I've since repainted the cover but you can see both the nylocks and the crush washer for each stud. Two gaskets one under the sump screen and one under the cover.

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Last edited by 75 911s; 03-07-2018 at 06:05 AM..
Old 03-07-2018, 05:59 AM
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As Duane has suggested, you need to re-do this. Pull the sump plate and screen. If the plate was over-tightened at some point, the plate warps at the holes. This causes an uneven mating surface and causes the leaks and only gets worse the more you tighten the nuts. I would say source a new sump plate, with all new hardware.
Since you just changed the oil, you can drain just the oil from the engine and reuse it if you are careful to keep it clean.

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Last edited by stevie 77 930; 03-07-2018 at 11:05 AM..
Old 03-07-2018, 07:54 AM
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I took my sump plate gasket out and put it on my granite table and banged it flat, that seemed to help with my leaks...you could try that.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:27 AM
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@Stevie...whats up with the custom made air injectors spider? :-) Looks well made. You couldn't source an original?
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Old 03-07-2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post
@Stevie...whats up with the custom made air injectors spider? :-) Looks well made. You couldn't source an original?

It is in fact original and not custom made. Early 930 air injection spyder. It's been powder coated grey
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:08 AM
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Thanks everyone for the input. One follow up - are there any tricks to removing the studs? I was surprised and a bit worried when the one came out with the nut. I guess they are made for replacement. I have a feeling they may be difficult to extract.
Old 03-07-2018, 06:15 PM
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If you used two new gaskets and 6 lb./ft. of torque on the nuts, you may have to re-torque the nuts several times after multiple heat-cycles until the gaskets are fully compressed. I've used the same gaskets with no leaks for ten years and prolly 10 removals/oil changes. By looks, I'd replace the nuts with nylocks, run a thread chaser over the studs, glue the offending stud in place (w/o a rusty nut) & maybe clean & paint the cover plate and check it for flatness as mentioned. If you pull the cover plate you'll only lose 3-4 quarts of oil.
Old 03-07-2018, 07:26 PM
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I have had several leaks over the last three years. One was on top of the right below the fan housing at the split of the two casings. The second one was at several of the nuts on the sump cover. I tried re-torturing the bolts on the casing near the leak and the nuts on the sump cover. The leaks persisted continued.

I did a search on how to fix leaks on a split case engine and it lead me to a VW repair website that recommended the following.
The fix was to buy a tube of hi temp (700F) grey silicone. Degrease the areas where the leaks showed. Applied a thin layer of silicone on the location of the split case and each of the nuts on the sump plate. Waited 24 hours and took took the car on a long drive. No more leaks found.

Granted, it is not pretty but it worked and sure beats an engine rebuild to fix a leak on the split case. The nuts are completely covered and I can live with that.
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Old 03-08-2018, 04:00 AM
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If you run the car for a short time, there will be only about 2quarts of oil in the sump, if that.
Working quickly, that will be your loss.
Bruce
Old 03-08-2018, 08:17 AM
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The leak looks like it's coming from the front of the engine. Coincidence? Iv'e seen stranger things happen. The plate you're using looks very rusty I'd replace that. Make sure the orientation of the drain plug is correct you don't want it below the oil pump pick up tube could cause cavitation.
Old 03-09-2018, 06:23 AM
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*yeah if you tightened up the case bolts while you were poking around down there, you may have introduced a new leak that drips down around the cover area. Also, there's a suspect through bolt toward the back of the car that gets tightened and stripped and then leaks.
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