Scissor Lift Summary

[widebody911]

(broke this into a new topic for readbility)

So I've decided the scissor lift is the way to go. I'm going to recess it into the floor, and do the lip around the edge like Ron did, so I can put plywood over it when not in use. I'll be using it for the 911 and for my VW's.

I talked to a rep from Mohawk yesterday. Their version of the HF lift (or is it the other way 'round?) is $2200, but lifts 48" - http://www.mohawklifts.com/hr6.htm


Mohawk has a distributor within 15 minutes of my house, and I'm going to go next week to check out one in person. FWIW, they also have a 72" version of this lift, which runs ~$6k.

The Harbor Fright[sic] version is $959 (an auspicious number!) but only lifts 39"
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46604



Hmm. Would you pay $1100 for an extra 9" :

Pros and Cons:
Mohawk:

• Pro: Appears to have better workmanship - it just looks cleaner than the HF version
• Pro: Local support
• Pro: 9" more lift
• Pro: Adjustable lift pads (4" to 7")
• Pro: American Made
• Pro: I'm actually able to talk to a competent human before purchase, and see an example of the lift in person
• Con: 2x the price

Harbor Freight:

• Pro: Cheaper
• Con: Questionable workmanship (although the one question I've seen appears to have been answered)
• Con: 9" lower lift height
• Con: Non-adjustable pads

The pads issue is interesting to me, because for the bus, the extensible pad would take up the 'slack' so I can actually take full advantage the lift's travel. Specs such as voltage, capacity and lifting time are about the same, so I'll take them out of the equation.

There's also the Snap-On lift, but it's even more expensive still, and is probably more similar to the Mohawk.

Which would you choose?

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by widebody911
[BThere's also the Snap-On lift, but it's even more expensive still, and is probably more similar to the Mohawk.

Which would you choose? [/B]

how much is the Snap-On 37in ?

and, IMO, based on your warp speed development/ projects, and love of cars... Don't get the HF

I think you gotta figure the lift is a 20-30 year toy, so the extra bucks now don't matter.. enjoy...................Ron

[billwagnon]

I would have to put something else under the car too - a jackstand I feel I can trust because it's simple. A scissor lift would make me nervous for the first year or so.

Of course lawyers have made this kind of equipment foolproof, I expect.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by billwagnon
Of course lawyers have made this kind of equipment foolproof, I expect.

all lifts have to meet certian specs.. like all must support a minimum of 6,000lbs..............Ron

[dickster]

thom,

i agree with ron.

i'd get the best i could afford, from what ever models served my needs.

is the mohawk better quality? cheap tools dont last, but quality ones will outlive you.

jmho

snap-on would probably be fav. if it was possible financially.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by dickster

snap-on would probably be fav. if it was possible financially.

Hey Dick..
the way to do the Snap-On is to buy a used one for $1,000-$1,400.. nothing to wear out.. maybe the oil pump after 10 years in a pro shop.. but it's only 37in without the optional extenders..............Ron

[jabb]

Another thought about recessing the lift into the floor.
Instead of doing that you could biuld a platform made of 2x4's and 3/4 inch plywood. build as a ramp to drive the car up and over the lift that way you do not have to hassel with cutting the concrete floor.... Horseshoe shaped ramp |_|

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I buy Harbor Freight and Northern Tools stuff for temporary use--like a parts cleaner that I used for six months during an engine rebuild and then threw out, which was about all it was good for. Their stuff is mostly made in China, then named "Chicago Tool" and stuff like that. I jsut bought a crude but serviceable Northern Tools floor jack that I use to change the snowtires and that's about it.

You can buy a good tool once or cheap ones over and over again.

Stephan

[VincentVega]

A buddy has a 2 post mohawk lift and it's very solid. Overbuilt is an understatment actually. If the smaller lift is on par with their bigger equipment it's top notch.

[billwagnon]

How much are the two-post lifts?

[widebody911]

Originally posted by jabb
Another thought about recessing the lift into the floor.
Instead of doing that you could biuld a platform made of 2x4's and 3/4 inch plywood. build as a ramp to drive the car up and over the lift that way you do not have to hassel with cutting the concrete floor.... Horseshoe shaped ramp |_|

I won't have to do any concrete cutting - the pit for the lift will be included when the forms are built for the garage foundation.

Is this what you meant by the horseshoe-shaped ramp:

[Erakad]

My 2 cents...always go with a little more than you can afford...if your gut says the Mohawk is better, your gut is probably right.

[Wayne 962]

AC Hydraulic has a great scissors lift - I know that their stuff is Grade-A top notch. We're going to be selling it really soon.

The Mohawk rep was a complete A-hole to me at SEMA last year, so they can just go jump in a lake. Very stuck-up and rude.

What I don't like about scissors lifts is that you cannot easily access under the car with the car lifted up. The area in-between the wheels is unaccessible. For this reason, the borchures that sell the scissors lifts always recommend them for brake work, or for tire shops. I don't own one because I think it would get in the way too much...

-Wayne

[jabb]

Originally posted by widebody911
I won't have to do any concrete cutting - the pit for the lift will be included when the forms are built for the garage foundation.

Is this what you meant by the horseshoe-shaped ramp:

Yep.... thats exactly what I mean

[Bob D]

The lift can be found here:
http://www.hydra-lift.com/lowrise_16&17.html
It cost about C$2500 (about US$1600) delivered. I got it through a local distributor.
I chose it because it has nice adjustable lifting pads, the power unit can be used to move the lift around, and the height is about right (30" or so)
I can also put the car on either way and get full access to either end, although it is pretty good as shown in the picture.
It is a bit of a pain to get the car positioned just right,at least the first time, and the drive-over height is a bit marginal for my lowered car with a fairly deep front spoiler. I am in the process of eliminating the lifting arms - the main cross beams of the lift are in perfect position to lift the car with just a small spacer that I will fabricate. then the drive -over height is just under 4".

[CamB]

I'd spend the money. It was discussed in the other thread, but on a 911 the amount of time you need to access the middle of the body is pretty low, so they are good for rear engine cars.

And Thom - I like the formatting in your post!!! You get today's formatting award

(edit) - Waynes post rang a bell. My engine builder uses an AC lift. Here it is with my car:

[VincentVega]

billwagnon - if I recall correctly the 2 post assymetric was ~$3500.

[widebody911]

I was originally going to go with a 2-post lift, but I decided to go with the scissor lift because space is at a premium for me. Unlike Cary, the biggest shop I can build is a 25'x25', due to local zoning laws. I have plenty of space for a larger shop, but da man be keepin' me down.

An alternative to a single scissor lift would be the double, but those are more than 2x the price of a single scissor. A dual scissor lift would alleviate Wayne's concerns about access under the car.

OTOH, I've been a VW/Porsche guy all my life, and I don't see myself coming out of the closet as a Corvette guy any time soon, so... Ok, I had an MG for 2 days once - It was when I was in college - I was young, and experimenting. I never saw it again.

The reps from Mohawk have been very helpful to me, I guess it's all a matter of who you get and on what day of the month.

[dickster]

as a matter of interest can anyone estimate the min. floor to ceiling height required for a scissor lift?? i guess you dont have to use full lift.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by dickster
i guess you dont have to use full lift.

the lock on my lift is only at full lift.............Ron