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D.I.Y. Induction System + cold start
Here are the pics of the first attempt let me know what you think?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/induct.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/induct1234.JPG
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Andi, you are nothing if not ingenious. Not quite sure how that installs to the system. Looks awfully big to make one for each individual intake stack.
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O.K. have a look at this it clears the deck lid perfect.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/induct654321.jpg
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Not bad, but what about the other side? The MFI pump is in the way. Are you going to mount a single injector centered in the middle of the airbox or try to center one over each individual stack? Also make sure you come up with some way to get an airtight seal between you new airboxes and the intake stacks.
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The cold start system will be made of rubber or pvc pipe to a metal t section, then rubber pipe to the air boxes then a ridgid metal pipe frame with 3 exits, each with a welding nozzle on the ends.
1 question for a clever person: How far down the shinny cylinder tubes do i want the petrol applicators? as far as poss? |
Well iguess that answers half of it.
On the other side there is more clearance from the deck lid, so the other air box will be an inch taller: allowing the filter to be mounted an inch higher than the other side, fingers crossed it will clear the pump. What about the breather pipes? put on a small K&N? |
that's really ingenious.. I think I might even buy that if it works like it looks... it would clean up the engine bay.
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Hi glad it seems O.K. in other peoples eyes!
I'm trained on sheet metal work, this one pictured is a prototype the final product will be welded and polished until smooth. My friend works with fibreglass and abs vacuum formings. So i could get them produced in S/steel, Mild steel, fibreglass or ABS plastic. I think S/Steel polished to a mirror finish will look the best under the lid. Just thinking I could even position the holes for the filters so they line up, then i could use the standard porsche air filter, but i wouldnt be as pretty as twin air cones! |
It will be air tight on the stacks, ive got some rubber trim to put on the bottom or i could bevel the edge like the standard air box.
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Go with steel or aluminum. That way if you get a backfire when starting you don't have to worry about an engine fire or melting the housing.
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S/Steel it is for me!
Can't wait to fire her up and have a listen, bet it sound awesome. Still gonna take 15mins to start:) What about the breather pipes? put on a tiny filter? |
Nice. Now if there was only a way to not use the K&N's. Oops, there I go and started another discourse on their use.
How about providing an option to mount the filtering media remotely; connect the air housings with flex hose to an air filter mounted in cooler air? Track cars might take advantage of a large remote air filter in the back seat area fed by NACA ducts through plastic rear quarter windows. Sherwood Lee http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
I thught about havind the air filters exposed out of the botton of the wing, but i think they will just get wet and soggy.
NACA duct would be nice but with 15" subs where the back seats used to be I'm not sure ive got the space. |
You have a right angle bend that may be an air flow problem. A more gentle "S" bend is prob. a good idea, tho it is hard to measure these things to be sure.
Also, if there is a way to insure that it does not collect hot engine compartment air, that would be an improvement. |
Andrew,
Interesting but might work very well. My concern is are the screws you used to hold it together just sheet metal screws or are there nuts on the backside? If there are nuts, pls secure them with some very good locking method! Would not want to see one of them vibrate loose then get sucked in a cylinder. Joe |
True a screw in the cylinder would be a downer to say the least!
Here is the pic of the finished prototype. I'm gonna weld the next ones together then spray satin black. It sounds like a F1 car. So I'm happy:) |
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