Steering Bearing Repair/Modification

[nocarrier]

This is my second post on there forums so I thought I'd post something that might help someone.


So the other day while driving my 930 the steering wheel bound up and took a bit of force to free up. Upon further inspection I found the steering bearing (the one inside on the smugglers box) to be rusted out completely. It was so bad, the individual rollers fell out and were completely rusted through. As a result the ground portion of the shaft was damaged and installing a new bearing wouldn't suffice as the now pitted shaft would quickly wear out the new bearing.

To avoid buying a new shaft and the steering bearing. I ended up finding roller ball bearing with a 26mm outer diameter and a 17mm inner diameter and a width of 5mm.

I then bored the original Porsche spacer found inside the rubber mount for a .001 interference fit and pressed a total of 5 of the new bearings stacked one one top of each other.

Since I am no longer using the pitted up portion of the steering rack input shaft as a bearing race. I am hoping I have been able to salvage this piece.

This all for a total cost of $20.00 for the bearings.








As always, feedback is always welcome

[trusouth]

Ok- I think the issue may be in the smugglers box- don't know but I am hoping that I don't have to take eveyrthing apart.

How do I take the thing apart in the smuggler'sox to get at the bearing. I tried to move the boot on the bearing and the boot is really hard, so it won't easily slide or move.

Do I take the allen bolts loose that mount the hold the shaft in place, just like I was going to take the rack off?

Thanks,

Mark

[nocarrier]

I got it out without removing the steering rack or the steering column.

You need to remove the fresh air blower assembly so you can get to the universal joint.

There is a pressed fiberboard covering the steering shaft and universal joints.

You can then remove the bolts for the universal joints and slide them up to disconnect the shafts. You must remove the bolts completely as the shafts are "keyed" for them.

I used a couple of rags stuffed under the lower universal joint to prevent dropping a nut or bolt down in to the deep and unknown areas of the smugglers box.

Then remove the semi-circle clamp and the rubber bushing above will come out.

The original needle bearing and felt washers come out pretty easily.

I used double sealed bearings to keep dirt and grime out.

[burgermeister]

Seems like a no-loose proposition to me ... great idea!

There is another bearing exactly like the one you replaced inside the rack (upper pinion bearing). If you ever take the rack out, it might be worth disassembling it and greasing everything. Mine was in the condition you described for your steering shaft bearing, minus a few needles, and the pinion shaft was junk (my steering shaft bearing was dry, but otherwise fine). Interestingly enough, the used replacement rack I bought came with a steering shaft that had significant wear and pitting where the steering shaft bearing sits ... must be a common malady!

[mikeatfhc]

I pulled, cleaned and re-greased my rack last weekend (I am in the middle of a total front end suspension rebuild). I was going to leave this bushing/bearing alone until I read your post...

I pulled mine and sure enough - dry and dusty as an old bone. Luckily, mine is still in good shape - I'll grease her up and re-install.

Thanks for the tip. I suggest everyone look at this bearing when you are in there.

[crustychief]

Darn it! now I am going to have to go look at mine now. Great fix/save!

[petercory]

Found this post a while back and followed the same process with great results:

$93 for the bearing inside the rubber donut is insane. I just bought three of these HK1712 (17x23x12) needle bearings from VXB bearings (vxb.com) for $6.77 ea.

You can also seal the bearing above and below with some 17x23x3 seals from Metric Seals Inc. (metricseals.com)

[4flyboy]

No Carrier,

I'm going down this road for due diligence sake. I had similar symptoms and will have to check these needle bearings.

Thanks for the write up.

[Pazuzu]

I just did this, the HK1712 bearing:
HK1712 Needle Bearing 17x23x12

and (2) VG 17x23x3 oil seals:
https://www.metricsealsinc.com/single-lip-springless/wao-17-s-17-x-23-x-3-wao

Worked perfectly. If you can, stuff the original felt pads in there as well, or buy 2 extra oil seals to fill the sleeve up (it's about 24mm wide total).

The sleeve pressed out easily from the rubber housing using a vise and some big sockets, it's pretty much just glued in there and the glue will have broken down by now. The factory bearing press out of the sleeve, then press in the new ones. Put in the oil seals, then press the whole assenbly back into the rubber. There's a hollow in the rubber where it sits, so it locates itself. Once the clamp is back on the assembly it will hold everything in place.

Good for another 20 years!