Turbo Tie Rod upgrade question

[TRACKS]

Thinking about upgrading my 74 to the Turbo Tie Rod kit since I want to replace the original tie rod ends anyways.

Question = are there any kits that still use the castellated nut with a cotter pin ?
The only upgrade kits I see on Pelican just use self locking nuts.... eh ?

OR, can you still buy the original tie rod ends with a castellated nut ?
I don't see any castellated nuts on the stuff available from Pelican.

I want to replace the boots as well, so upgrading to a Turbo Tie Rod kit made sense for that reason also.

thanks all ,
Kevin

[Driven97]

Am I missing something? Those are castellated.

[HaroldMHedge]

Yes, that kit appears to have castellated nuts. If it's the TTK-930N here on PP when looking at the More Info page, it shows non-castellated nuts.

[JRSIII]

Got mine from Elephant Racing and their kit comes with castellated nuts. Shoot Chuck an email verifying that's still the case and is for your car's year.

[TRACKS]

thanks everyone -

Looks like the kit from Elephant Racing has a castellated nut, but it is also more $$$$

Decisions, decisions ...

[wrxnofx]

I when I replaced my tie rod ends 2 seasons ago, one came with the castle nut and pin while the other came with the lock nut. Both have been fine since the day of installation.

[TRACKS]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

I when I replaced my tie rod ends 2 seasons ago, one came with the castle nut and pin while the other came with the lock nut. Both have been fine since the day of installation.

thanks ! good to know.
I'm sure the self locking nuts work fine, its just a mental block for me.
I will wait a little bit before I order the tie rods and see if i get over it by then - ha!

[G50911]

not to hijack the thread, but assuming this post was to address a concern about the ends coming undone, does anyone know the torque specs of the other end? the one that screws in to the steering rack and needs a super slim open ended wrench to tighten? doesn't seem like it could physically get undone but just asking.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by G50911

not to hijack the thread, but assuming this post was to address a concern about the ends coming undone, does anyone know the torque specs of the other end? the one that screws in to the steering rack and needs a super slim open ended wrench to tighten? doesn't seem like it could physically get undone but just asking.

I raped a stout Harbor Freight wrench with a pedestal grinder.

Had to make it skinny and a bigger opening.

Torque? Pretty damned tight.

I'm still alive so guessing it was enough.

[Ayles]

Originally Posted by G50911

not to hijack the thread, but assuming this post was to address a concern about the ends coming undone, does anyone know the torque specs of the other end? the one that screws in to the steering rack and needs a super slim open ended wrench to tighten? doesn't seem like it could physically get undone but just asking.

You can get said wrench at a bike shop. I have one at home and would be happy to let you borrow it. I am in the Bay Area as we speak but I can post the details of the wrench when I get home.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Ayles

You can get said wrench at a bike shop. I have one at home and would be happy to let you borrow it. I am in the Bay Area as we speak but I can post the details of the wrench when I get home.

G50 - pounce on this opportunity.

[G50911]

Originally Posted by Ayles

You can get said wrench at a bike shop. I have one at home and would be happy to let you borrow it. I am in the Bay Area as we speak but I can post the details of the wrench when I get home.

hey sweet! always good to connect with other pcar fanatics (especially local ones!) PM me details on where you’re at 👍🏼👍🏼

[Ayles]

Originally Posted by G50911

hey sweet! always good to connect with other pcar fanatics (especially local ones!) PM me details on where you’re at 👍🏼👍🏼

Sorry I may not have been clear, I am just here for work. But happy to loan the wrench if you need it! I can easily drop it in the mail tomorrow or Sat.

[Ayles]

[jlong]

It appears that the new stock of Lemforder (OEM) tie rods come with a lock nut instead of a castellated nut and cotter pin. Improvement or cost savings? Hopefully both.

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

I when I replaced my tie rod ends 2 seasons ago, one came with the castle nut and pin while the other came with the lock nut. Both have been fine since the day of installation.

that would have pissed me off! did both studs have the cotter pin hole?

I was sent two different rear billsteins many years ago and I was pissed enough to send them back for a matching set. you could see the differences in emblems & eras coming in a repackaged box. one was really old stock matched with a newer one.

tie-rods are not like an old, even if NIB gas shock, but still supplier shenanigans like that can be frustrating.

[mreid]

Please remind me of the use of the spacers on the inner tie rod end. Always or only certain years (84+?). On my 75 I have toe out with the spacers installed. Thanks!

[Oneredspyder]

I just installed a set of Lemforder turbo tie rods on my 86 Carrara that I bought from our host. The nuts for the tie rod ends were not castellated. I am not worried about it' I really think they will stay on. I did not use the spacers, the inner tie rods did not bottom out. I did use lock tite on the inner threads and basically tightened them up as tight as I could with the huge wrench I bought.
The hardest, most time consuming part of the job was getting the new boot on as well as the inner spring loaded collar. Without taking the rack off the car, it takes a lot of patience. I used some long screw drivers, pics, and a lot of elbow grease. I took the outer rod end off the tie rod, pulled the outer puck off the rod and inserted it on the boot. Then inserted the boot with the outer puck fitted onto the rod. Pushed the inner aspect of the boot onto the inner part of the rack with a bunch of trial and error methods. Silly time on a non technical assembly. But it is now done.

[Tremelune]

Thread-locking compound for the win.

[Oneredspyder]

There are easy solutions here, the easiest is to double nut the tie rod end that does not have the castilated nut. Or , I bet for short money any machine shop would drill a hole in the tie rod end to make it castilated. Before aligning the car mark the thread with a punch where you want it drilled. You coule easily drill it yourself with cutting oil and a good bit After the car is aligned, just switch the nut.