ignition key issue
 

I have a problem with my 83SC. My key won't turn. The problem started last summer - but I've always been able to get it to start - by turning key upside down, etc. Reading old posts, i've squirted brake cleaner, WD40 and run a narrow allen key to toggle the tumblers. Now my car is stuck in a parking lot and there was no amount of trying got it going.

Any more last ditch efforts I can try before getting it towed? What's the next step otherwise? Get new cylinder and get it recoded to old key?

Thanks.

Getting a new cylinder coded to your key is an expensive proposition, so my local shop guided me. Basically it is ordered through Porsche, and IIRC, costs about $800. I had a key break off in the cylinder, and it took a lot of work to get it extracted. Finally got it resolved, avoiding the above expense.

Sorry, no fresh ideas for you though.

Good luck

Jason

stuck lock
 

Give this a go,
WD40 is not always the best solution to use, and i noticed you used ,
brake cleaner then WD40, if you did in this order, go and start again and do this,
Take a couple of dry cotton rags, try and buy small bottle of Graphite dust,it is
still the best to use for locks.
Now start again and use a small amount of brake cleaner in the cylinder lock, now
let it dry,and by putting your key in and out alot of times and wiping it as do this
with the rags,after about 5 6 minutes, place a small amount of graphite dust on one
side of your key,then slide it in and out of cylinder lock, then do the same with other
side of key, and slide it and out,only require small amount of dust.each side,
Now you are ready to try turning your key very carefully, not forcing it, also
pull the key out about 1or 2 thou the try turning it , this method usually works,
if no luck, get another key cut , tell the lock smith to place 2 layers of tissue paper
under the key before does the cut.Good luck.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523085021.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523085117.JPG

I have a complete ignition switch with key for 300 + ship if you are interested in the for sale section. You could use this for now.

Thanks Wayne. My son has just had his pinewood derby race - so I have some graphite around. I'll try that first.

Zed - I'll check out your ad. My immediate problem is getting my car home before it gets towed to a pound.

The problem might be a break in the tab that goes from the mechanical lock to the electrical switch on the back. If you undo the screws that secure the electrical switch to the back of the lock, you may be able to unlock the steering wheel, then start the car separately with a screwdriver in the switch. It would be worth a try.

Don’t use powdered graphite. It makes a slushy mess in the lock. Remove the ignition and send to tweet. He will make it work like new.

nikos -- I'd also take a look at how worn your keys are. The sides of my original keys had worn down with use, causing the "shoulder" of the key cuts to become narrow and pointy. Having an old-school locksmith cut new keys (with wide shoulders on the cuts) from my worn original keys allowed the lock cylinders to engage a lot better and solved a key issue (on my door locks) I was having -- still working properly 80k later.

I'm guessing he tried jiggeying the steering wheel right and left as he gently tried turning the key at the same time. I've had this issue on occasion when I parked with the wheels turned and somehow jammed the steering wheel locking link... really had to lean on the wheel to get 'er to release.

@mepstein --- is "tweet" a member here on Pelican? I have a full ignition unit where the mechanical tab broke. Would be great to get that repaired.

Thanks!

When I got my lock fixed this is what the locksmith told me.

I second the wiggle the steering wheel.

Is the key stuck in the 'lock' position or is it stuck partially turned?

If it's partially turned it has probably already broken somewhere. The tab on the back of the ignition barrel has a tab that breaks off in the ignition switch lock. New replacements are $$$$.

If you can't get it going you have to get it towed, then pull the lock out.

Go get a can of tri flow spray it in the lock add key tap lightly on key as you turn it. Never use graphite it gums up everything. I can fix your ignition or rekey a used one I've got a few for sale.

^^^ What he said, I've talked to locksmiths and they all say NO graphite,
no WD40, etc,Tri Flow only!

I've just pulled my ignition lock as I bought a project from a collection and had the wrong key...

Sent the lock to Sierra Madre and they have been amazing. The customer service has been brilliant and the 3rd party they sent my lock to, really knew what he was talking about (to someone like me who knows very little anyway).

If you end up pulling your ignition lock, I would recommend them if you don't want to tackle it yourself. Including disassembly of the barrel from the unit, production of the new key bank and two keys (one OEM, one not) and shipping was just over $250.

The removal of the barrel from the lock was the part I wasn't looking forward to. Drilling out the steel pin holding it all in place looked terrifying.

They also told me what my key number is. This is normally written on the top side of the ignition assembly. It may still be readable on yours - mine, not so much...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523206090.JPG
This is a microscope image of the paper sticker and even with different lights and image renders...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523206237.jpg
Well it looked like there was a 3 in there somewhere!

If you have the number on yours, it's much cheaper to have the key made.

Good luck! :D

+100 Yeh, this.

I listened to the "graphite" lobby years ago; the somewhat-sticky locks on my 944 got worse the more I used, until I started getting concerned about the key pressure necessary to unlock the door in the winter...

Used Tri-Flow, just because I had some (dumb luck), until no more gummy junk came out of the lock, worked the key for 30 seconds or so - and locks worked better than they ever had.

Local locksmith (who recognizes old 911 keys by sight and has blanks on the shelf) later confirmed graphite not the best idea...

Just repeat as needed; every couple of years or so. Tri-Flow doesn't dry out/get sticky like WD40, but minute amounts come back out on the key :)