OK Guys, I Have To Fix This Thing!

JTO · 02-24-2003, 07:48 AM

Hi,
No doubt you are tired of hearing about, and I am tired of telling about my ongoing clutch woes. But, even afer a new clutch kit and cable, the clutch is not disengageing properly. I had to take the floor board out to allow enough pedal movement to disengage the clutch. Before installing the new clutch kit, I inspected the TO fork, the TO shaft, etc. All looked ok. I lubed the shaft and reinstalled it. Afer putting the new clutch in, I drove the car and the clutch worked great. I felt it needed to engage lower, but other than that it was smooth and great. Well, after getting the car hot, the clutch began to not disengage fully as indicated by grinding going into first at a stop. I tightened the cable a bit and it helped for a little while (hours). Now the clutch cable is so tight, it creeks as you work the clutch. What the heck is going on??? This happened with the MM kit too, but on top of the disengagement issue, it shuddered. I just ordered from PP a new TO fork, shaft, TO shaft seal, guide tube and seal. Please advise because after the above items are installed, there is nothing left, or is there?

Thanks,
Troy

osidak · 02-24-2003, 07:57 AM

Assuming everything has been installed and adjust properly check to see if the clutch pedal is bent.

When I reinstalled my engine after a rebuild and new clutch I had the same problems. (do a search on my name). I had to remove the floorboard to get the clutch to release. Turned out to be a bent pedal. Don't know how it happened but that is what it was.

Good luck

JTO · 02-24-2003, 08:06 AM

Thanks osidak.

The pedal moves smoothly but does sit about 1/2" lower to the floor than the brake pedal. The creaking sound comes from the rear of the car (TO area).

I really need to solve this. Could it be the guide tube interfering with the movement of the TO bearing?

Troy

osidak · 02-24-2003, 08:11 AM

If you pull the pedal all the way back does it still sit lower to the floor than the brake pedal? If so it is bent. The bending will not affect the feel of the pedal just the range of motion. I spent 2 weeks fighting this issue. Just never occured to me that it could be bent.

I belive the 75 setup is similar to mine (1978) You want to make sure the bowden tube is secure against the bulk head and also anchored to the transmission. If it flops around to much then it eats up the travel of the cabel..

avendlerdp · avendlerdp's Garage

The bent pedal is a likely culprit. If not, look to see if the cable is collapsing. I have also seen the lever on the bellhousing start to bend. Does anyone know if an over cut flywheel could do this? If so there may be a spacer for the throwout bearing.

Alex

JTO · 02-24-2003, 08:18 AM

osidak,

would 1/2" difference in height cause the symptoms I've mentioned?

Troy

osidak · 02-24-2003, 08:39 AM

Yes that 1/2" will do it. I think mine was less than 1/2" difference. The second I pulled it back up to be level with the brake pedal the clutch was working great.

Take a monkey wrench and tighten it against the area that is circled in in the photo. This is the area that bends.

Good luck and let me know

JTO · 02-24-2003, 09:40 AM

OK, thanks for the advice. Funny that this hasn't been mentioned to me before.

Troy

gregk1 · 02-24-2003, 10:06 AM

I had a 914 with the same type of problem, After pulling my Hair out for a while, I found that the small tube that runs down the center of the tunnel that the cluch cable routes thru had broken loose from the tack welds, And made the clutch not work right, So you might check that out also, You never know

JTO · 02-24-2003, 10:58 AM

osidak,

do you suggest I straighten the clutch pedal back to its original shape?

Troy

osidak · 02-24-2003, 01:14 PM

Sorry for the delay actually had to do some real work. Yes bend the pedal back into the proper location.

This is assuming you had adjusted everything and the pedal box is in good shape (no slop due to worn bushings)

2 weeks of banging my head fixed in 10 minutes.

Hope it works for you

JTO · 02-24-2003, 08:24 PM

Hello Dr. Osidak,

I went home and did the following: I loosened up the clutch cable at the transmission. I pulled the clutch pedal to its proper location (bent it back to shape). I then went through the clutch adjustment procedure. The clutch still will not disengage with 1" of free travel. I adjusted the cable until it was very tight and still, the clutch would not disengage. The clutch still makes a pop and a squeek when pushed through its travel (sounds come from back of car). I think my problem still exists at the TO bearing/guide tube/fork, eventhough upon inspection, these things looked good. I will be receiving these parts from Pelican this week. I will pull the powertrain for the sixth time and continue to address this issue. Boy, I am tired of this issue and the car right now!

Thanks for your advice today. I was very hopeful it was the solution.

Troy

osidak · 02-25-2003, 02:44 AM

JTO sorry to hear that didn't fix the problem. I was having almost identical problems and that cured it.

Hate that you have to pull the engine again as well. If I can think of anything else I will let you know

dickster · 02-25-2003, 03:12 AM

i read this thread yesterday and was going to respond until i read the bent pedal post. that hasn't worked so........

years ago i had a problem clutch (same symptoms) and replaced the clutch. problem continued. after another strip down and inspection i found a hair line crack in the fork, so that when presure was applied the fork distorted.

its got to be something simple like that or incorrect install........

btw - i had a wheel wobble on the same car and ended up replacing the steering rack. after much head scratching and $$$$ i got a friend to drive the car in a straight line towards me (standing in the road) and right away i saw one of the wheels wobbling like crazy. one trip to the scrap yard for a secondhand wheel .......

good luck.

JTO · 02-25-2003, 07:33 AM

Thanks guys. I am replacing the TO fork and shaft to ensure these aren't the culprit. The fork was new but the shaft is original. Hope this time it works,
Troy

avendlerdp · avendlerdp's Garage

Hey, I just thought of somthing. I had this problem on a Triumph once and it turned out to be bad thrust bearings in the crank. Easy to check. have a friend push the clutch down while you look at the rear pully on the motor. If it moves in and out the thrust surfaces are fried on the main bearings. This is not very likely but it seems there are few stones left unturned here.

Alex

scarebus · 02-25-2003, 07:54 AM

Troy,
I had almost the same problem a year ago, with my clutch
hard to engage, until finally wouldn't disengage. Adjustments
didn't help. Separated trans/engine, found one arm of the
fork broken. Got a new one, and voila, fixed it.

Chris

JTO · 02-25-2003, 11:49 AM

Hey thanks Chris and Alex. The engine is newly rebuilt so I don't think its the thrust bearings, but I'll check.

Chris, the throwout fork seems likely due to the frequency that this thing causes trouble. Soon, e.g. Saturday, it will be replaced and I will report to the group whether these efforts work.

Thanks again,
Troy

Tim L · 02-25-2003, 12:19 PM

Where did you get you first clutch kit? What kind is it? I had the center metal part of a new clutch disk fail after 1000 mi. The bits of metal were jammed into the pressure plat and made the clutch drag giving me the exact same symptoms you’re having.

Tim

JTO · 02-25-2003, 12:27 PM

Tim,
Its a new Sachs kit from PP. I have about fifty miles on it.

Troy