Head studs question

[kavadarci]

Hi,
While working on te valve adjustment fellow member asked me to check the head stud tightness.
While not using a lot of power I found three on the right (two bottom one top) and 6 on the left (4 lower snd 2 up) were (let me not say loose but not as tight)
I turned them very gently and all are equally tight now with none being pulled, everything feels correct.

Can someone advise if this is normal?
Should I worry?
Previous owner told me the studs were replaced but I can’t prove it.

Here is a photo from the stud nuts .

[john walker's workshop]

Kind of normal after a stud replacement. I get them back in after 1500 miles for readjust valves and check torque. 2.7s are famous for loose heads.

[Flat6pac]

If the studs were replaced on a mag case they should have been replaced with dilivars in the day.
On 2.7 cylinders the studs are outside the cylinders and can be magnet tested either side of the fan.
Cap nuts do need to be checked especially if you have some oil leakage.
Bruce

[kavadarci]

Ok,
This makes me feel a little bit better.
Should they big magnetic? I have access to the sides of the fan.

What are the torque specs for these ?
Thank you

[Jack Stands]

Though Dilivar were thought to be the solution to pulled head studs back in the day, I thought folks were going back to steel studs (ARP, Supertec, etc.) these days due to the corrosion and snapping of the Dilivar ones. Installing Casesavers during a rebuild is probably a must on old magnesium cases as well these days.

[SalParadise]

You did fine. And let me tell you when someone rebuilt my 2.7 in California in the 1990s and very thankfully they did not use Divilar - they used all-new Porsche steel studs.

It was not re-torqued since rebuild, and I re-torqued all of mine last month. Very few needed to be done, but were done.

It's fine, but I would make sure they are all the same value at 24 ft pounds IF the engine has case savers or whatnot to keep them from pulling.