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Weird Horn wiring issue (wire keeps breaking blinker cancel tab!)
Hey guys, title pretty much sums it up. My horn was inoperable when I got the car. Added a Momo prototipo with Momo hub (and an offset adapter that positions the wheel a little higher up when steering straight ahead), and started investigating why no horn. Turned out there was no relay! Replaced the relay, threaded the horn wire into the hub through the little hole in the hub (which I'm assuming is the purpose of this hole!), and wired it up. Horn worked great! But then "crack" at first turn of the wheel, accompanied by no more blinker cancel. Took everything apart and sure enough, the horn wire wrapped around the base of the steering wheel (near the splines) and broke the cancelling tab on the wheel (oem cancel ring transferred to the Momo).
I've now wired it up three times using different wiring routing through the steering wheel column, all with the same damn result. Once the force of turning actually pulled my wiring out from the crimp connection, the loose wire grounded against the hub, and I had a fun SUPER loud constant horn in the neighborhood until I could pull the relay. Yes, all the neighbors came out and I felt like a total as_hat. I couldn't get that relay out fast enough...it was like one of those nightmares you had when you were a kid where you can't get your fingers to move fast enough to open a locked door with a monster about to devour you from behind! (ok, maybe I wasn't a kid when I had that dream the last time!). Anyway, I'm either totally dense and missing something obvious, or there is some secret trick to wiring up an aftermarket horn button! Help, I'm running out of jb weld for my cancel tab! Thanks in advance! |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/138526-idiots-guide-momo-prototipo-install-carrera.html Or this one http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/947198-momo-steering-wheel-install.html |
Thanks! Yup, read both of those in my quest to see what I had done wrong. Weird part is that I routed the horn wire just as the poster in the first linked thread...through the hole in the hub. If you think about it, as you turn the wheel (and thus the hub) the wire is going to be pulled in the direction of the turn. Then, when you turn the wheel back, at least in my set up, there will be extra slack in the wire from being pulled into the hub and somehow that wire, at least in my set up, will eventually interfere with the cancel tab of the horn ring, which then snaps off. I can't see how to keep this from happening, which is why it is so weird to me that no one has ever mentioned this issue on the forums (at least as far as I could find in a pretty in-depth search).
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Can you post some pictures showing how you routed the wire from the steering column to the associated hubs and how the wires are connected? I'm having difficulty visualizing how you did it that would result in the problem you have.
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There is a brown wire with white stripe coming out from the left side (top) of the steering column. It appears to originate behind (or even at) the turn signal switch assembly. Installed a spade on that wire and threaded it through the hole drilled in the top left (driver side) side of the hub, and connected the spade to the connector on the horn button. Seated the horn button, everything works fine when button is depressed. Then go for a drive and the wiring gets tugged around and eventually jams up into the blinker cancel tab. I almost wonder if my hub is not seating all the way down onto the steering wheel splined shaft, which creates a small gap for the wire to work its way into the area where the cancel tab swings. So strange. I've put aftermarket racing wheels on other cars and never had such an issue lol! |
That wire goes to a horn contact strip that screws to the top of the plastic housing. It does not go into your hub at all.
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Well, john was right in identifying my screw up. I was thrown off because as you can see, my horn contact wiper switch is MIA (and the gold colored spade connector on my contact ring is completely broken off). Will order these parts. Thanks all!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1525190140.jpg
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Tyvm |
From what I've seen, the need of the additional ground wire depends on the type of horn button you're using. Theres horns with 1 attachment on the rear and theres horns with two. The one with two require you to running a ground cable between one of those two connectors and the Male connector on the 'ground plate'.
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deleted. I see the original post was already resolved. with the same info I just posted.
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Yes, that's correct. Feel free to post a pic of the rear of your horn. Pics usually tell a lot more.
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Normally, your button doesnt require any additional wires. Only the original one that is there to operate the horn. That one should be fitted to the spade connector on the rear of your button.
The so called wired running out of the side on your button is your ground attachment. Those used to touch metal when being mounted inside old style hubs but the current ones (the collapsibles) have a larger center hole. So in order to make the wire from the horn touch ground, you may need to put one of these between your hub and steering wheel. (Sharp side mounted upwards) P.S.: on the horn buttons with 2 spades, an additional ground cable is ran between the 2nd spade on the horn and the spade on this ring. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564786757.jpg |
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Ty so much I can’t wait to get it done! Sunday. |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564946379.jpg |
No problem, you're welcome.
i don't see any paint on the wheel myself so i'm not sure if that's it. At least you know the wiring in itself is good, it's probably just one of the contacts that doesn't make good contact. |
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