Looks good. Should be a blast.

That's gonna haul butt! :D

Congratulations!

All you 3.6 swappers are making me look into 3.2 turbo systems! Love the fan. That thing is gonna snap your neck!:D

3.6 Liters and 2,325 lbs. works for me, this thing is going to fly!

Keith

Nice work! Keep us all posted on your progress.

I like the black and gold too. Hope you don't mind me copying your color scheme, since my SC is black. My engine's out for some work, and I'm going to gold powder coat the valve covers and fan.

Good news Paul, nice to have one more resource should I ever get time to work on mine!

Paul,
Looks great...any possiblilty of getting a closer shot of the engine? I'd love to see how the polished housing and powder coated covers look.
Rick

Paul: Thanks for sharing! 'Can't wait to get my 3.6 built and installed in my 72.

Felmir

Awesome Paul! How long did it take? 2 weeks? I'm sure it seemed long to you, but it sure seems like you hauled a$$ to me.

Did you document it all, so you can do an article for Pelican?

After taking Monday and Tuesday off work I was finally able to sort out several of the problems and drive the car. the car made it's first 5 mile trip to the muffler shop. I thought I was going to get pulled over because the car is so LOUD! In fact I got about three blocks from my house and saw the red lights. Luckily the cop understood and I had directions to the muffler shop so he let me go without incident. He told me he had heard the motor start in my garage and head in his direction!

I couldn't open it up because 6K RPMS down PCH in Newport Beach with an open exhaust is not the place to do it. I've heard full on race cars that were quieter, or so it seemed. The car does have a VERY noticeable increase it torque.

I took off the cat b/c it became so hot it would have melted the fiberglass rear bumper. It was also too loud even with my experience with the OEM Sport muffler which was already loud. I had intended to go with the OEM sausage style muffler connected to the 993 exhaust but that is not going to work It may with a stock valance but not mine. We tried to attach a flow master but it will not work with the 993 exhaust headers due to the outlet angles.

A muffler will run off each manifold and out either side. The exhaust will run almost straight out so ther ewill be very little restriction. I am changing the rear valance so the exhaust tips will be hidden for the time being. I'm picking up the car this afternoon for its first real drive.

THE ISSUES:
Chip: initially the motor would stall with the lightened flywheel. I changed out the chip to a Centex chip from Timmins, capped some hidden open vacuum lines, and the car revs and drops to idle, never missing a beat.

Throttle cable: I don't know on this. Several have posted problems with the supplied throattle cable, and it just doesn't seem great. I'll have to look into this further or maybe go with the Patrick Motor Sports modified cable.

Druck Pressure: I though I had received the correct sending unit, but the druck pressure is reading double. Bill V posted about this and he lives with it. I may or may not.

Heating: The heater system is not hooked up. This is going to take a little fabrication. I plan on making a fiberglass piece that will slip onto the bottom engine opening and direct the flow from the RS by-pass tube to either side of the heat exchangers. From there it's just a direct connection to the heater valves. the car may not have AC, but damn if I'm going to be cold.

The whole process took me 6 straight days - working alone. This was my first engine drop on a P-car so everything was new to me. I also took the time to paint the engine compartment, pretty-up the engine, and change all the necessary seals/sending units in the motor and tranny. I'll take some good pics in the light later. I would estimate that anyone who knew wiring and is adept at motor R&Rs should be able to do the switch in a full weekend. The most difficult and time consuming part is getting all the parts lined up.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Irritating points I had, was

1) the vacuum leaks, seemes like you got them
2) the micro switch(s) on the throttle linkage, they seemed to need adjustments
3) and the return spring seemed to be weak.

I don't know about you, but the ability to "blip" the throttle was something I missed with the stock throttle spring.....the addition of a Kragen return spring firmed it up and the joy of the blip was restored.... :D

On the cat thing....my NEW dual cats do not seem to get very hot. Maybe the one you have is clogged.

Congratulations Paul!!

Go with the Patrick Motorsports throttle cable. It is a vast improvement.

I put a second spring on before I even started the motor. I remembered your comment at Dunkles regarding this, "you'll see why."

Paul,

Great posting and good job. Did you have any "instructions" to go by or did you wing it? What was the most difficult part? Hard to do all the wiring or moving the DME and harness?

Have bought Bill Verburg's car and will do the swap in a month or so and good to see eveyones input on this. Also, have heard that the Patrick throttle cable is the way to do as well...

Thx,

Joe

Looks fabulous Paul. You should be proud.
Here is a lightened pic of the engine that shows off your work a little better.

Paul, the oem 993 heat ducts including the visable piece here which parallels the cat may help in you quest for heat. This is a '97 v-ram but the '95 heat is the same.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...93_motor_1.jpg

The duct visable above the cat heat shield in this pic is the transverse part. If you use as much of the factory ducting as possible and SCAT when necessary(you should only need the SCAT from the heat outlets from the 993 headers to the heat control valves under the car.

Paul, did you ever sort out if it was the chip change or the plugging of the vacuum leaks that made the motor idle properly?

Ingo

nice

Ingo, It was the chip. I had plugged the vacuum lines and the motor was still stalling. It may work on your since the flywheel will be a little heavier.

Bill, I asked at hte dealer, just for fun, what those ran. $650! I think I can fabricate something that looks nice out of fiberglass for about $5 plus the cost of the hose.


I picked up the car from the muffler shop and took it for a drive. Let me say the car is really fast! The difference is night and day. I'm going to get into trouble.

THe exhaust is still way too loud. Any ideas?