Solid/Mechanical Tensioner - how tight?

[strictly]

Found some collapsed 930 tensioners today, lucky i had the collars fitted. Ive also got some cam/rocker leaks so going to pull the motor in a few weeks and have a good look at the top end. 71 2.2T

In the meantime i have some solid stomski tensioners to hand, my question is how tight for the chain? I can see the sprockets and chains are worn, so presumably i dont want to go too tight. Chain housings are mag too, so better watch those bolts/pins.

The only advice i have so far is set them with the motor hot and no slack in the chain.

Its a short term fix while i keep it running and driving, while the sun is out =P and i get things in order to pull the motor

[Trackrash]

It's not that big of a deal to rebuild the tensioners. It's going to have to be done anyway, why not do it now?

[DanielDudley]

Set them wrong, and you can wear out your intermediate shaft bearings, the result of which is low hot oil pressure. I don't like them in general, having had that experience.

[Jack Stands]

I’d just rebuild your tensioners and reinstall them (or convert to the oil-fed tensioners). If solid tensioners were appropriate, Porsche wouldn’t have spent all the time and money developing the tensioners. I believe they were really meant for racecars that are being continually serviced.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by Jack Stands

I’d just rebuild your tensioners and reinstall them (or convert to the oil-fed tensioners). If solid tensioners were appropriate, Porsche wouldn’t have spent all the time and money developing the tensioners. I believe they were really meant for racecars that are being continually serviced.

Or the hydraulic ones were used to stop an expensive engine from grenading when the too often situation of a mechanical tensioner failing. In this case the OP had the collars to stop a catastrophic end to his failed tensioner.

Hydraulic tensioners can still fail.

[strictly]

Ah yes, I have the rebuild kits to hand, I just forgot to order the main spring which dosent come with it.

At the moment I'm looking at other things, like making sure I know where all the oil leaks exactly are before I pull the motor.

Good thought on the ims, with a too tight chain.

With a fully bleed 930 tensioner (or pressure fed) how much should the tensioner plunger move during normal operation (I.e in use)

2mm or so, or more like 5 to 10?

The workshop manual has a test, where a weight is placed on top of the plunger and movement of 10mm over 10 minutes, is a defective tensioner

[strictly]

I pulled out the tensioner and idler arm. It has the later idler arm, but I am surprised to see someone put 2 shims behind it, as i understand it they are designed to float left and right so the chain will centre them? I should refit without the idler without the two shims behind right?

A porsche technical bulletien, says the later idler arms should not be used with the earlier 930 tensioner (049) and i must change to the 053?

My tensioner is 930.105.501.0R, so neither of these numbers...and I have a 901 tensioner on the other side, which looks identical to the 930.105.501.0R, i'll pull it out and photograph in a minute

See pics

[strictly]

This the right side, 901 tensioner, okay with the later idler arm?

[strictly]