Can I change trans oil using just jack stands?
 

I don't have a lift, am wondering if I can get enough access to change transmission oil using just jack stands...?? Also, if removing a rear wheel will facilitate access, should I remove both for balance purposes while on stands?

Thanks

Jason

Be sure you can open the fill plug before draining...

Yes you can use jack stands.

The most important thing to do during this procedure is to get the side fill plug out first. If you drain first and things go south with the side port, you cant drive.

I removed rear wheel and used 1/2 drive extensions and a breaker bar on a 17MM allen wrench socket. I literally was on the side of the car rather than under when breaking loose the plug. You have the advantage of being able to push the hex tool into the plug while applying torque to loosen.

When ready, rig a funnel to the door handle with a hose that fits into the side port and make it small enough to allow gear fluid to spill out when it reaches the port level. When you do this the car should be pretty level so drop the rear down when filling. It takes a long time to fill. Maybe an hour.

This is just how I have done it. Others will chime in.

I've use one of those pumps that screw in to the top of the bottle, and also a $10 Harbor Freight fluid pump. Second option was better. Not a ton of fun either way, but slightly faster than gravity.

Having the car on stands with one wheel off won’t upset the balance.

If you find you need to get under the car, Jack it as high as you can.j
You may need leverage of a cheater pipe, and there can be a lack of ground clearance.

Thanks to all.

Ayles and Bob, yes it had occurred to me to ensure that i could remove the fill plug, appreciated.

I bought a fluid hand pump as well from our host - is there any concern of introducing air bubbles when using a hand pump?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1526152259.jpg

Jason

I use Bob's method of going in from the side to remove the fill plug.

Then I use one of these, with a little longer hose, to fill with.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1526152972.jpg

Air bubbles are a moot point.
You're dumping milk into a bowl of cereal.
Not airtight.

Submerge the gear oil bottle in some hot water to lower viscosity.

Yeah baby!

My 2 cents.

No need for jack stands except for safety.

Drain:
Place wheel chocks on passenger side, using a Jack Pad, Raise driver side, place jack stand/s for safety.
Crack loose filler plug located on the side of the gear box, remove and then break loose the drain below and remove to drain into a drain pan. Check magnet for shavings, bit and pieces.
Lower the car and let it all drip out ( car is level and it should all drain ).
Option, drive her for a bit to warm up the gear lube, I found it gets more of the old lube out but that is just my OCD. :-P

Fill:
Raise the driver side, jack stands for safety.
Replace drain plug, torque to spec, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
Pump or Fill 3 quarts of Gear Lube, with the car raised it is much easier when raised.
Lower the car, and let car settle or bounce on it to remove load from the suspension, Gear Box is level now.
Unless you lowered her below Euro Height ( it maybe be too low to fit under there), use your hose & pump or just use the 4th bottle and squeeze to fill remaining 0.25 quarts of gear lube in or until it starts to drip out to a fine slow drip. Do Not Allow an Over Fill, CRITICAL.
Replace Fill Plug, torque to spec, Do Not Over Torque. Clean Up.

Done, now go enjoy your baby and check for leaks. Shouldn't leak if torque wrench is working properly or plugs are good.

I used that one too. Don't make the same dumb mistake I did... The hard plastic tubes that are included are for reaching the bottom of your oil bottle if it's a large one. I didn't use them and was annoyed at having to tilt and squeeze the bottle to pump in enough.

The instructions say each pump moves 1oz or something, so I figured out I would need something like 104 pumps to fill it (check these numbers). I counted 106 before fluid ran out of the fill hole, so I was pretty happy about that.

I’ve done it both ways - pump and gravity. Gravity was easier on my back for sure. I used a heavy garden tamper as the support piece and some tubing, a funnel, and a Velcro zip tie to get everything assembled. Have a tray to catch drips when it gets past full. This gear oil is stinky and hard to remove from a concrete floor.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7d8ad6676.jpg

+1 on all above. 2 additional tips:

1) I use a little anti-seize on the fill and drain plugs
2) I leave the bottles of new gear oil outside in the sun for about an hour (you could use a warm water bath in colder temps) so it'll flow easier & faster.

Great suggestions, thanks all.

Jason

Re: removing gear oil - pour and restore works like a charm. Just in case you do happen to spill some. Not that I’m saying that ever happened to me.

Nice :cool:

Used Draco's technique- worked like a charm, thanks to all for the tips.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1526766785.jpg

Btw, the hand pump worked great, and yes I heated up the fluid (Swepco 201) in a bucket of hot water.

Jason

DRACO-

Why is this mission critical? Is it the mess factor or something more sinister?


Thanks



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The point is, when you drain it AND fill it, make sure the car is level. So if youre going to use jack stands and dont want to raise and lower it raise all four corners equally.