Turbo Tie-Rod Spacer

[Graham Archer]

I lined up my old tie rod (with its spacer) beside my new "turbo" tie-rod (with its spacer). The only way I can get the lengths to be similar is with the new one at its shortest length (the tie-rod end screwed all the way in). This will not allow for any toe-in adjustment if the new rod is slightly long.

It appears that the new one will be able to fully screw into the rack without the spacer. Should I just leave out the spacer? It looks like it might be handy for an ad hoc bump steer kit.

[dickster]

are both sides the same? sounds like they've been unequally adjusted.

i understand that the turbo rods need the spacers to fit the rack end properly. i would use them.

you may have to adjust the other side to enable equal adjustment on both sides??


the dickster

[jluetjen]

If your rack is centered, then both tie rods would bottom in their holes without the spacer. If your rack is off-center, I suspect that at least one side should be at risk of bottoming. Anyhow, you don't want the threaded portion of the tie-rod bottomed in the hole. The threads were designed to be tensioned against the top of the hole which is what the spacer allows it to do.

[nhromyak]

Graham,

Looking at one Tie rod and it corresponding arm - Are BOTH your tie-rod end and the steering rack end turned all the way in?

As I recall when you turn the center section, both the tie-rod (outer 14) and the steering rack (inner-12) end will move inward (toe -out) or both will turn outward (toe-in).

From just reading your description - it sounds like you ONLY turned the tie-rod end (14) - all the way in.



I believe sub assembly 13/1 is the "Turbo tie-rod", and sub assembly 13 is the OEM tie-rod assembly.

At any rate, I believe the threads will bottom out on your rack before you can torque down the "Turbo tie-rod" assembly. Hence, the need for the spacer on the non-Turbo racks.

[Graham Archer]

Thanks for the replies....let me try to clarify.

1) Prior to removal of the tie-rods, the car was in alignment and the steering rack was in the center with the wheels in the straight ahead position.

2) After removing the old tie-rods from the car, both old tie rods are the same length (about 11 3/4" from the back of the spacer to the center of the spindle).

3) In order to make the new "turbo" tie rod the same length, including the new spacer, I need to shorten the overall length of the tie-rod so much that it is at its limit (ie it can't go any shorter).

4) If I remove the spacer on the new "turbo" tie rods, then to get the 11 3/4" overall length, I need to turn out the tie-rod ends about 5 turns. (this will allow me some adjustment room).

5) It appears that without the spacer, the threaded portion at end of the the "turbo" tie rods will completely screw into the rack.

[n8marx]

Sorry to dig up this old thread but I have the same question.

When switching to turbo tie rods both of the rods screwed all the way into the rack without bottoming in the holes without the spacers. My assumption is that the spacer is required only to prevent the tie rod from bottoming. If so, then I don't need to use them right? Not using them allows more adjustabilty, which is good.

So, do I need 'em?

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by n8marx
If so, then I don't need to use them right?

I believe "widebody" destroyed his rack seals a couple of times because he didn't use the spacer