Door striker - Door won't fully close

[wparon]

Hi,
Hoping for some advice . I bought new plastic parts for the door strikers in my 65 912 but now the doors won't fully close. The first "click" happen but then the door won't go further.

I don't think it's possible to mount the part the wrong way so I have no idea how to fix this. Has anyone experienced the same problem?

[Peter Graham]

If you are out of adjustment and the door latch mechanism is installed/operating correctly, I would suspect either a plastic bit is not the same or the catch was re-assembled incorrectly, prohibiting the full latch. Have you manually operated the latch to full latch position (and released it), eliminating that possibility?

The paint color is awesome!

Peter

[wparon]

Originally Posted by Peter Graham

If you are out of adjustment and the door latch mechanism is installed/operating correctly, I would suspect either a plastic bit is not the same or the catch was re-assembled incorrectly, prohibiting the full latch. Have you manually operated the latch to full latch position (and released it), eliminating that possibility?

The paint color is awesome!

Peter

Thanks for the quick response. The door latch mechanism works as it should, that is confirmed. I dont think it is possible to re assemble the striker the wrong way?

[Peter Graham]

Originally Posted by wparon

Thanks for the quick response. The door latch mechanism works as it should, that is confirmed. I dont think it is possible to re assemble the striker the wrong way?

...but it is possible to use the wrong plastic parts. IIRC, early latch plates (MY65/66) bits are very different from that of later models. The other thing you may need to look at is whether the latch plate is spaced from latch panel correctly.

Peter

[wparon]

Originally Posted by Peter Graham

...but it is possible to use the wrong plastic parts. IIRC, early latch plates (MY65/66) bits are very different from that of later models. The other thing you may need to look at is whether the latch plate is spaced from latch panel correctly.

Peter

I was told the striker parts in 65 ghias were identical to the ones in 912 65, so I bought a kit. They sure look identical when comparing mine with pictures on Porsche parts. If I have the striker in my hand, I can get it to fully latch but can’t seem to get it sorted when it’s mounted on the body.

This is driving me nuts

[ejboyd5]

Congratulations on having the testicular fortitude to paint a car that color. What is it?

[JT912]

The Ghia parts are correct for early strikes. If I recall correctly the early ones are a two click deal. If they are too far in, the door can’t close far enough to get to that second click position. If the strikes are too far out then the cv second click position doesn’t pull the door in far enough. Keep in mind that there are also shims for behind the strike that may be needed.

[wparon]

Originally Posted by ejboyd5

Congratulations on having the testicular fortitude to paint a car that color. What is it?

It's actually Slate Gray. The lighting in the garage has some kind of purple shine to it :-)

[deckard]

on my car the latch won't drop down on the second click unless the striker is greased. i use white lithium grease on the striker and the latch will then slip and be forced down which then closes the door completely.
it will work in your hands as the angles can be manipulated.

[wparon]

Originally Posted by deckard

on my car the latch won't drop down on the second click unless the striker is greased. i use white lithium grease on the striker and the latch will then slip and be forced down which then closes the door completely.
it will work in your hands as the angles can be manipulated.

Thanks for the tip, will try it out!

[helidoc]

I am wondering if you figured out what your door latch was doing. I am having the same problem where the door will close to the sound of the first click in the latch but doesn't turn to the second click when it is in the striker. Works fine when I check outside the striker. Is this normal? I can get it to close full closure after grinding some of the striker holes medially and inferiorly but with only one click. Mine is a 1968 911L that the plastic parts in the striker were broken when I got the car and I used one of the plastic rebuild kits (not the spring loaded type of striker). The clearances are all fine and the firm stop after the first click is in the striker. Not sure if the plastic parts are what is stoping it but there are no visible metal marks or alignment issues. Have attached some pictures.