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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Heath, TX
Posts: 82
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I have pulled my motor to find the oil leaks and am wondering what to clean the large aluminium pieces, third piece and heads with. The Maestro warns against hot tanks and talks about some tank. What is safe to put my parts in. Thanks DG
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,417
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David,
Before you go to the nasty chemicals, go pick up a gallon of simple green. Wet down the metal, spray it on full strength, let it soak, and scrub it off with a plastic brush. Newspaper underneath will soak up the nasty stuff and the simmple green won't do bad things to your skin and lungs. Mine had about a quarter inch of old grease and cat hair from being stored in a barn for ten years. A little patience and it shines real nice with no harsh chemicals. Best, Morrie
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68 912 Coupe, 76 914 2.0 backdated, 76 912E SR Coupe" Gone but remembered- 76 911S SR Coupe "The Clown Car", 89 944S2 SR Coupe, 76 912E "Green Rat", 67 912 outlaw, 68 912 Coupe, 87 924S |
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David,
Morrie hit it right on the head, no pun intended. I used simple green to clean off the many years of road scum buildup on my tranny when I had the engine out. C |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Heath, TX
Posts: 82
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OK guys. We're not talking about external gunk anymore but the real nastyleftover burnt oil brown collection those of you have seen if you have split your case or taken off your third piece. Anyone out there. Hey thanks Morrie for a great get together. I had a great time. Later DG
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There have been several discussions on this at www.bay912.org, might try posting your question there as there seems to be a very particular process you want to follow, I just can't remember what it was.
C There are 2 kinds of pedestrians The quick and the dead |
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I use a Hammerite de-greaser here in the UK I put it on the club forum here and some guys bought it . It really works Gunk is tame and mild it some off this stuff just disolves grease. I even used it on my fuel finger in the tank ( when it was out) it took the glaze of and the crap over night to a nice clean new looking filter.
Even did it on my fuel sender unit that I stripped down and used this it works great. I guess you guys might not be able to get it in the US I will look for a picture of it and then you can see if you regonise the lable. It is getting hard to get it here now ??? don't know why I bought 5 ltrs the other day as it was the last one but it really works. Cheers Mark UK
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Too many cars too little time.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Heath, TX
Posts: 82
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So far the locals have suggested 1. Oven cleaner-2. kerosine-3.Lacuer thinner. I have used aluminum wheel cleaner, WD-40 and engine degreaser. None have produced a shiney clean surface. Looking for the chemical the Maestro talked about in some kind of Aluminun cleaning tank. The small passageways in the third piece are very hard to get to with brushes. I'd like to submerge in something. Still waiting. With all the cars listed with E-Bay and registry that have rebuilds surely someone knows how to do this. Thanks DG
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Morrie - I thought you were kidding...
Quote:
'What - you mean they're not SUPPOSED to be black???!!!' Not quite at the q-tip stage, but spent several hours under the back-end of my car discovering the actual color of the metal under there. Went through the entire spray-bottle (actually, they didn't have a gallon container. I looked). Amazing what I found under there... of course, it also proved that 15-year-old layers of grime make excellent seals, and when you remove it you discover a whole new round of 'ooze points' 'Um, Mister - your dipstick is leaking...' - Discovered that the cap on the dipstick was incompletely welded, and oil was coming up out of the top of the dipstick - in rather large amounts when the engine was hot! (enough to drip down a fair amount onto a hot exhaust and produce rather embarrasing and stinky amounts of white smoke. Don't have a torch, so tried filling the gaps with superglue, and replaced the rubber gasket under the cap. Hopefully that'll help. Couldn't run the engine up hot enough this morning to test it out. Anyway, just another side-trip in my adventure in restoring my baby! As always, this community of owners is fantastic, and always a source of inspiration and guidance, whichever board you're on. Thanks! Jason '68 912 Coupe |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lynnwood Wash.
Posts: 35
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AS for aluminum cleaner go to an engine rebuild shop or radiator repair shop and use there aluminum cleaning tank. I have a hot solution tank for aluminum large enough for the entire engine if anyone needs to have it done in my area. No charge. My diesel engine rebuild shop is in Lynnwood Wash. It is fast and after press washing everything looks new. I also have a hot tank large enough for the entire car for the non aluminum parts. Although I dont recommend doing body pieces this way as the chemical stays in the seams and will come to haunt your new paint job.Media blasting is better.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Heath, TX
Posts: 82
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solution
What is the hot solution in your aluminium tank. I'll look at my tape from the Maestro to see what he says is bad. Can't think offhand. Some chemical to avoid. DG
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