WEBER 40 IDF CONVERSION part 2 of 3
 

PART 2
SATURDAY MORNING:
Before I bolted anything together, I cleaned all adapters, carb bottom, and tops of Solex manifolds with alcohol & brake clean again. Wanted clean & smooth sealing surfaces to help eliminate any of the dreaded air leaks.
Lay out tools - removed the paper towels from the manifold throats!

For each side: Get the 2 gaskets that look like stock Solex gaskets-they go between the manifold & the adaptor. I used @ 1/16" ring of Permatex on both sides around the manifold intake hole – didn’t want any air leaks there. Applied the thin Permatex ring with a small paint brush to spread thinly & uniformly. More is not better here.
Set gaskets on, adaptor on, and screwed in with 4 special Allen bolts provided … turn in evenly & tighten. I used a little never-seize on these Allen bolts. Next, get the 2 irregular shape gaskets for between the carb & adaptor, I put a little permatex on the side that goes to adaptor plate but none on the carb side (in case it has to come off for some reason).
Put carb on using the 13mm nuts provided in the kit. Be sure to a have spring or schnorr (my preference) washer between each nut & carb. HOWEVER, I ended up using a 12mm atf nut for the back inside stud on each side - much easier to work in there with a wrench/socket ESPECIALLY the 1-2 side. You can use the 13 but it’s a struggle, as the contour of the Weber is different than the Solex (Solex nut was easier to get at).
I used a ¼” ratchet, long extension, swivel joint and socket, putting the last hand calibrated pull on each nut with a thin box wrench. No need to “reef” down on these and make them too tight….snug is plenty here.
At this point, both carbs are on & we are happy so far, so its time to stretch, have a cup of coffee and marvel at the cool looking set up & rest my knees.

I did NOT want to cut my original Solex lines, so I went to NAPA earlier, and bought 5/16" flared steel brake lines with fittings (one 40", one 21", one 12" length.).*

I also bought a nice, slim, brass female "T" for brake lines, to accept the 3 new steel lines.
I used my 89 cent, Taiwan tube bender and bent new metal lines to match the original Solex line contours (this step takes a little patience and trial and error). One line from fuel pump to T (21"); another from T to 3-4 carb (12"); the last to the 1-2 carb (40"). Fit & cut of excess lengths of line. Use Teflon tape on the 3 NPT fitting nuts (you need a ½” wrench) and seat & tighten all 3 lines into the T. I put a thick towel in some vise grips to hold the T so it wouldn’t get marked up.
You will also need about a foot of 5/16" rubber fuel hose (a piece cut to length for each carb and a piece at fuel pump), and 6 small clamps (fuel pump-2, & 2 each Weber side). Man, it looks real nice!!!

*You can skip all that line stuff by just cutting off the 2 banjo ends of your stock lines, but you will still need some rubber hose & clamps.

Next, the throttle rods. Adjust both rods to length, make sure there is no binding, and be able to have full throttle open when both carbs are hooked up & full throttle applied. I had to fuss with this a little. Two 8mm wrenches needed. Grease all the sockets before snapping on & off. I use a thin 10mm open end to pop them off.

The Red line kit had great arms on the Webers but you will have to "tweak" the 1-2 side, or it binds a little and you can’t get full throttle. Undo the 11mm locknut on the 1-2 arm, take the arm off, and tweak arm as needed on the $5.99 Harbor Freight special Porsche vise. Reckon you can bend it with 2 pair of pliers also. Reinstall and check for full throttle. DO NOT over tighten the arm locknut-it will stop you from getting full spring back when you release the throttle (ask me how I know).
Also, I had my wife come out and push the accelerator all the way to the floor to make sure I still had full throttle.( If no wife, then put a paint can or something on the accelerator pedal to hold it down.) Mine was just a tad short of full throttle, so pop off the rod on the backside of the fan housing & adjust it a few turns so all is happy the way the good Herr Doktor designed it (uh @ 1938 I think I read). I think you can also adjust the pull ball on the bell crank rod, if more is needed; (check the manual on that point) but that adjustment means behind the fan shroud, under the car & out & under & out & behind & ….


OK just about ready to start it up. I always have a fire extinguisher handy- I recommend it just in case. You can pour some gas into the bowls, or just keep cranking until you get some squirt from the injector nozzles. That done, stand back and double check your work- you pro’s & more skilled guys can skip this, or any step I reckon.