009's vs 050 vs 031 -Don't LEAN into it!
 

I was watching the various threads on distributors. IF set up properly ANY distributor will smooth out your static running problem and actually help out the dynamic running. BUT....the 009 simply does NOT give you the dynamic advance needed to run you car at high end. You are leaning out #3 too much and will eventually burn a piston on #3. The 050 gives a much beter (more) dynamic advance and is much easier on #3. An 031 is imho the best with full advance at @3k rpm, @35 degrees measured at 1.75" marked on the circumference of your pulley from 0T. 1.50" marked on the pulley from 0T is 30 degrees advance about where an 050 puts you with better advance @31+/- a tad. Not perfect but good enough for a low cost replacement. 009's at 1.50 & 1.75" are only about 28 degrees all out! I used an 031 because I had one, but an 050 would be my choice if I didn't have one. I keep a new 050 on the shelf just in case. The debate will rage, but I wanted to add my $.02. Thanks. George

Thanks for this post George. Having a rebuild done this week. Have a blown piston ... probably timing related. In the future I'll cross this concern off the list.

jac912, thanks for the note. 009's have been scorned by Pellow for at least 30 years & and a knowledgeable Porsche engine builder will NOT ever use one because it is in effect a retard unit since it can not deliver advance neded by Porsche engines. Heck, they dont even line up well on install as the condensor hits the oil line. Yet, based on threads seen, there is a "new discovery" of the 009 (must be cyclical as the last discovery was @ 25 years ago & about a year later there were a BUNCH of 356/912 motors being rebuilt). The math never worked for me in that saving a buck on a cheap distributor near term, is worth the huge expense of an overheated engine, burnt piston rebuild in the not too long term....but to each his own.
The 009's appeal because they are shiny, CHEAP and they give the APPEARANCE of working-especially at low end! I have seen and heard of 009 engines burning #3 in less than 5K miles and seldom longer than 10K miles. I have always tried to use only a factory cast iron or replacement 031-you still find them at swap meets cheap and you can send them out for a rebuild & recurve for @$150 American. If that shoots your budget buy a new 050 for @$75 & it will work wonderfully with real decent advance and will not burn up your motor (unless you are a steady long duration redline driver). Pellow made a science of the evils of 009's & so have many of the "noteable" engine builders and old E production SCCA guys. Best of luck on your engine rebuild.
My $.02. Cheers.