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Join Date: May 2003
Location: London UK
Posts: 49
901 gearbox crunches when hot, OK when cold..???

Selecting first or reverse is fine when car has not been running for long, but after it is warmed up for 1/2 hr or so the gear change into Ist or reverse crunches unless youre very very gentle with it.

I have new rubber transmission nose mounts, but have not changed the engine mounts at the back. Thought perhaps its the mounts getting warm and moving about in their old age once the engine warms up. Any ideas guys? Also, I have not changed the trans oil since buying the car a year ago, but I guess this would be worth doing anyway.

Cheers...


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Silver '73 2.4E
Old 09-23-2003, 04:07 AM
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Location: Dallas, Tx.
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Yeah, I'd try changing the gear oil first...but it sounds to me like either weak synchros or worn brake bands...if the oil change doesn't help it at all...you can keep driving it as is or start hunnting for synchros and bands...
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Kevin,

1969 912
1992 Firebird
1985 Eldorado(SS roof)
1992 Ranger PU
1976 Cutlass(tha beast)
various others in the country for parts
Old 09-23-2003, 07:11 AM
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Location: Austin, TX
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Is your idle climbing when the engine is warm? I had a similar issue but it only presented itself when the idle was over about 1200 RPMs..... Just a thought...
Morrie
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68 912 Coupe, 76 914 2.0 backdated, 76 912E SR Coupe"
Gone but remembered- 76 911S SR Coupe "The Clown Car", 89 944S2 SR Coupe, 76 912E "Green Rat", 67 912 outlaw, 68 912 Coupe, 87 924S
Old 09-24-2003, 10:24 AM
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Actually it is. Pending the replacement of my leaky old carbs, the idle fluctuates a lot depending on temp and driving conditions etc, but does tend to build to over 1200rpm when warmed up...

Maybe I can look forward to better changes when I have a nice predictable idle speed then.... I also think the clutch release bearing has seen better days, so will be changed next time I drop the motor.

Thanks for your info guys.
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:58 AM
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Location: Austin, TX
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A couple thoughts

Crunch when warm: When its acting up, try a quick experiment. Pull over and back your idle adjusts down about a quarter turn each, but no further than the engine will tolerate and run smoothly. See if the problem disappears. At least you'll know if its an issue or if it will go away when you resolve your carbs.

Throw out Bearing: My personal experience is with my 67 which sat ubused for many years before I got it. The Throw out bearing would tick when the clutch was not depressed. I found that my tranny sorted itself out well after some driving and shifts alot smoother since I replaced the gear oil with Swepco 201. Sounds like a sales pitch, I know, but it really did make a noticable difference in smooth shifting.

Just offering up som elow cost suggestions... Thats why I am known as such a cheap a##!



Morrie
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68 912 Coupe, 76 914 2.0 backdated, 76 912E SR Coupe"
Gone but remembered- 76 911S SR Coupe "The Clown Car", 89 944S2 SR Coupe, 76 912E "Green Rat", 67 912 outlaw, 68 912 Coupe, 87 924S
Old 09-25-2003, 04:48 AM
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Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
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Howard Beard gave me a tip which worked for me. Before you shift into 1st gear, move the shift lever into 2nd gear which stops all the trans internals from rotating, then shift into 1st gear. The crunch should go away. It did for me.

You just have to remember to do it every time you go to 1st gear.

It's easy to do on a 5 speed shift pattern. Not sure on a 4 speed.

Thanks,
Ron D

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Old 09-25-2003, 04:57 AM
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