Great Day, Drilled hole thru Engine!

my912 · 09-12-2003, 01:51 PM

Well after spending over $3500 dollars for a good paint job,$500 for rims,$100s more for parts, Today I tried to add a MSD Coil, To do so I needed to drill a small hole to mount a part that comes with the coil. Of all the spots I needed to pick, I choose a spot on the fan Cover right near where the old coil was.I go to start the car and I get to see my Brand new oil leak. I'm just about at the end of My rope with this car.I've been into this hobby for 30 years and have NEVER had something like this happen. I live In Greenwich CT, If anybody in the Tri State area is looking for a 912 maybe the best thing I could do is sell it for $ 2000.00 and go buy a HDTV.

Duke · 09-12-2003, 02:14 PM

You drilled into your oil cooler.

Maybe it can be repaired?? or get another one from Parts Heaven or Easy & keep the car.

adot · 09-12-2003, 02:22 PM

Sony's HDTV XBR 30" wide screen (6:19) is so sweet !!! And yes its $2000 .

Do you think you drilled thru the oil cooler ? Or is it just a new leak ?

New oil cooler fix will take a weekend to fix. They say you dont need to take the motor out, but I would. Green 912 has a great , step by step, way of removing the motor on this board somewhere. The first time I removed the motor, it took 2 hours. The second time, 45 minutes.

Does the 912 have a sunroof?

GoodLuck

Brett

my912 · 09-12-2003, 02:28 PM

I now know where the oil cooler I didn't have is. At least I didn't kick the dog. Thanks guys for the info.

nocoin365 · 09-12-2003, 10:04 PM

Keep it, you'll be happier. Besides, a new oil cooler isnt that bad in the grand scheme of 912 parts and fixes. worst case, a new one is about $400, a good used one a lot less. You can replace it in an afternoon, okay, maybe a long afternoon.

Green 912 · 09-18-2003, 01:00 PM

Ouch! don't feel bad I almost did the same thing a while ago. I was all ready to drive in a self tapper when the little 10 watt light over my head flickered on. let me know if you want the "pull the motor yourself with hand tools and only one jack" instructions and I 'll post them. You realy need to pull the motor to replace the oil cooler and I recomend a new or very well cleaned internaly used cooler. I hope you fix your car, it's worth it!

ron69912t · 09-19-2003, 08:41 AM

A friend of mine was installing a humidifier in his furnace plenium and drilled a hole thru his evaporator coil inside the plenium. S--T happens.

Good luck

Ron D

my912 · 09-19-2003, 04:49 PM

I'm happy to report that you do not need to pull the motor to take out the oil cooler. I'm glad I work out of my home so I could spend a day and a half working on this car. Hopefully I put the wires back to the right places on the coil ( Dist wire to neg on coil I think) Sunday I hope to have some time to try and start it up.

Duke · 09-19-2003, 05:04 PM

Let us know the procedure you used to remove the oil cooler without dropping the engine.

my912 · 09-19-2003, 06:15 PM

Remove all the screws that are in the back of the engine shield either by hand, small flat blade screwdriver (3 inchs or less in size) or as I needed to do get a socket that has a flat blade screwdriver as part of the socket. I needed to use the socket since I couldn't free up one bolt with my screwdriver. After you do that remove the screws for the front and side engine shield, now remove the Gen,Oil Can, Dist,Coil and anything else that could get in the way. Now the fun starts, there are three bolts that hold the Oil Cooler in place, One is easy to get to its to the left of the Gen inside the Engine Shield. The other two are outside the shield. You need a 10mm open end wrench no more then about 3 inchs or you will not have the room to remove one of the bolts. After you got the nuts off the three screws lift both the oil cooler and engine shield up and back. Thats all there was to it. It was hard to get the nuts back on the two screws but if you go slow it gets done. Does the wire from the dist go to the neg side of the Coil? That question and Where does the Red ,Brown and Black wire go to on the Gen? That info Would really Help.

Duke · 09-19-2003, 08:46 PM

The Dist wire goes to the neg. side of the coil (you will notice a #1 on that side with a minus sign above it, at least on my blue coil). For the generator, connect the red wire to D+, brown to back of gen. body, black to DF. You have the 420 watt generator right? The regulator connections are: Large Black wire to #61, brown wire to D-, red to D+, and the small black wire to DF. Congrats on the cooler & thanks for the info.

Franco912 · Franco912's Garage

Green 912 (Sir),

Could you possibly post the instructions to pull a 912 motor with hand tools and one jack? I think I'll be doing this and rebuilding my motor soon.

Thanks,

Frank

Green 912 · 09-25-2003, 02:41 AM

1 Disconnect the battery and only then disconnect all wiring to the motor from the body. Senders, ignition, generator and such. No need to disconnect the starter or starter wiring.

2 Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump.

3 Remove the large rear pan.

4 Disconnect the shift linkage connector that is under the cover between the rear seats. Don’t forget this part or you will really damage things later!

5 Loosen the rear wheel lugs. I like to remove the rear wheels as it makes it easer to move around under the car but it isn’t required.

6 Lift the car. To do so, jack the car up as high as you can with a floor jack using the tranny center at the differential box as a lifting point. I use a disk of plywood and a patch of old carpet in the jack cup to protect the case. with the car as high as the jack will go use 2 jack stands and a 2X4 as long as the car is wide support the car by putting the 2X4 under the rear floor pan seam. (The seam, NOT the pan. The point where the rear seat pan ends) Set the jack stands under the 2X4 about 3 feet apart. Now remove the floor jack from the transmission and jack the car higher using the center of the 2X4. You will be able to get the car nice and high this way. Raise the floor stands up to again meet the 2X4 and remove the floor jack. The car is stable, high enough, you only need one jack and never had to get under the car while lifting it.

7 Remove the rear wheels if you like.

8 Remove the sheet metal that the license plate is on. You will need to remove the rear chrome bumpers to do this.

9 Loosen the front transmission bolts. Do not remove them; just back them out 3 turns or so.

10 Disconnect all the heater stuff, hoses, control wires to the flapper boxes and anything else you see that runs from the car to the motor. Check to see if there are any mounting straps to the tail pipes ect. (Remove nothing off the transmission, as it will stay. No need to remove the CV joints or starter ether)

11 Put the floor jack under the center of the motor case and put a little upward pressure on it, then remove the rear motor mount bolts.

12 Check that the shift link in the rear seat is disconected and only then Lower the motor about 3 inches.

13 Lean in and remove the front most piece of motor tin. This is the one that sticks up over the top of the transmission. It is held in place with 4 cheese heads.

14 Get a flat cargo strap that is about 1 inch wide, run it under the transmission right behind the bell housing. Tie it off on the top of the rear strut towers inside the motor compartment and cinch it up tight. This will support the transmission after you remove the motor. I use one with hooks on each end. If you bend the hooks about 45 deg to one side they will hook right around the top of the shock

15 Lower the motor until SOME of the weight is off the jack. The strap will stretch some thus giving you some more room to work with. Now slide under the car and remove the 2 lower motor/trans nuts. Then remove the 2 bolts on top. One is a starter-mounting bolt as well.

16 Jack the motor up or down until the motor isn’t lifting the trans and the trans isn’t lifting the motor.

16 Now you can pull the motor gently off the trans and lower it to the floor and then roll it right out the back. Use the tail pipes as handles. Bolt on the motor stand bracket and only now do you need to get a friend to help you lift the bugger into the stand. Yo8u can also strip the motor down some and tip the stand over and conect the mount to the motor. Then it is easy to right the motor now mounted onto the stand without any extra help

One jack, one person and the second time you do it you can do it in 40 minor less. You can remove and install a transmission single-handed as well just pull the motor then use the same jack to go after the trans.

terry@bigbadtoy · 09-25-2003, 06:01 PM

A little off the subject, but a couple of weeks ago I was putting a fan shroud on by old 72 blazer and drilled a hole right into the bottom radiator (new) fins. That stuff does not taste very good. With that history, I will be REAL carful with a drill on my 912. Good luck.

Franco912 · Franco912's Garage

Thanks, Green. You are the man. I like your style as I usually try to find ways to do things alone.