Shift Bushings

ron69912t · 10-06-2003, 04:51 AM

How hard is it to replace the shift ball cup bushing at the base of the shift lever?

Also the Sliding Ring Bushing and the shifter coupler bushings at the read of the tunnel?

Any special tools or tips??

How do you know when to replace the bushings? Is it wise to replace all of them if one is worn out?

Thanks,
Ron D

C. Clark · C. Clark's Garage

Just unbolt the shifter from the floor board and things become obvious, the shifter pulls out of a socket and the nylon bushing is in the socket. The shifter shaft bushing is to the rear of the shifter. It's simple too, pull it out and replace it. If the shifting become sloppy / hard to find gears, more then liikely it's the bushings. No special tools, sincc you have it apart change them all.
Chas.
69/912
66/911

ron69912t · 10-06-2003, 09:28 AM

Chas:
Thanks for the information, sound easy enough.

How about the coupler bushings at the rear of the tunnel? How hard are they to replace? Can you do it without disturbing the shift linkage settings or do you have to remove the coupler from the shaft to replace them?

Thanks,
Ron D

craign · craign's Garage

Ron,

You do have to seperate the shifter linkage from the tranny linkage to get at the one in the tunnel.

All I can say is be careful when you do seperate them and try like hell to get them back together in EXACTLY the same position. If you don't it won't feel right when shifting, it will shift, but will feel different and you might have a hard time getting from say 2nd-3rd..........I had to finally take mine to a Porche mechanic and it took him all of 2 minutes to get it set right, thankfully he did not charge me for my learning experience.

Craign

ron69912t · 10-06-2003, 12:58 PM

Craig:
It looks like the pin that goes thru the coupling bushings should just push out one side or the other. How does it come out? Do you need to press it out.
Ron D

Green 912 · 10-06-2003, 01:43 PM

Just scratch ref lines on the rods and link with something sharp prior to disasembly. You can also use a Sharpy.

C. Clark · C. Clark's Garage

Ron,
Any good manual will explain in full on how to adjust the linkage, the Porsche 912 Handbook says, "Move selector shaft of internal shift lever in transmission all the way to stop while in the neutral position. With the transmission in neutral, move the gearshift lever to the right (facing from drivers seat) to stop."
Of course double check the feel of the gears and tighten it up.
Hope this helps,
Chas.
69/912
66/911

craign · craign's Garage

Ron,

I don't think pressing is required but mine was in about 3 large pieces fo it kind of fell out. Sure didn't need to press in the new one.....

Craign

m_r_m_73 · 10-06-2003, 10:44 PM

You DO need to press out the center pin in the shift coupler under the panel in the back floor. If you are not sure if you are equipped to do that at home, then you probably aren't.

I ended up buying a coupler that had been refitted with new bushings as a replacement unit, as its impossible to refit new bushings in the shift coupler with the center pin in place.

Good luck!

Mike

Morrie · 10-07-2003, 03:41 PM

Ron,

Tips as I have done all the bushings and have adjusted the linkages. All are relatively easy, if you know the tricks.

Ball cup Bushing. Cheap and easy. Take the bolts from the base of the shift lever and lift it off. the ball cup is likely in pieces inside the "cup" and all over in the tunnel. Lube the new one with a little lithum grease and snap it on the ball at teh end of the shift lever BEFORE you install the bushing intothe cup. It snaps into place and if you don't do this first, it won't seat and the shift lever will bind.

Tunnel Bushing. Straight forward too. While the ball cup bushing is out, you can slide the old one off and the new one on. I'd replace both at the same time, cheap and neither will mess with your linkage adjustments.

Shift Coupler. This one is the biggest pain. New bushings are around 20 but replacing them is a pain at best. The center pin needs to be pressed out while supporting the surrounding material, and the whole thing is aluminum. You can do some really creative stiff with a vise and a deep well socket. Slide the appropriate size socket over the pin so it rests on the center shaft of the joint, supporting it. Next, use a smaller socket that will firmly press on the pin from the other side. By squeezing this in your vise, the pin should be pressed out in a controled, supported manner. Just be sure the socket is deep enough.

Shift coupler alignment: Once you get this all back together, tighten the coupler a little and work / fiddle your way into 3rd gear (2nd on a 4 speed) With the tranny locked in 3rd, get a helper with a wrench to climb in the back seat. Noe, with the coupler loose again, move the lever down and to the left. You want to put slight pressure agianst the 1-R spring, allowing that to eat up about 105 of the 2-3 play/slop. Now, move the lever up/down until it is comfortably as low to the floor as you want and have your helper tighten the coupler. You'll be surprised how well it works!

Lemme kno if you have any questions, I wrote this in a hurry and from memory.

Morrie

ron69912t · 10-08-2003, 11:20 AM

Thanks for the info guy's. I plan to tackle the bushings this weekend.

Ron D

ron69912t · 10-09-2003, 04:33 AM

Checked my coupler bushings last night and found them loose as a goose. It is surprising how much play there is in the shift lever with only 1/16" fore and aft clearance in the bushings.

Can't wait to change all the bushings and see the improvement it shifting.

Ron D

Morrie · 10-09-2003, 06:08 AM

Ron,

IF the coupler just doesn't want to come apart and the thought of spending 80 bucks on something nobody will ever see bugs you, you can try this, which has worked flawlessly for me and doesn't require you remove the pin.

Go to the hardware store with your shift coupler in hand. Go look at broom handles first, the wooden ones. If no luck there, you can try the Dowel section but I struck out there. What you are looking for is a dowel/handle the precise size of the outside diameter of the coupler bushing. Me, I found it on a broom in my garage, a nice hard ash handle.

Next, cut off a chunk longer than 2x the distance from the center of the coupler to the outside edge, go to the drill press, and drill a hole down the middle of the dowel you can just fit the center pin into.

While you were at the hardware store, you needed to also pick up two nylon washers that will slide over the center pin and fit through the bushing opening. Also, a hose clamp.

So, place a nylon washer on each side of the center of the coulper, offer the pin. Now, cut a piece of the dowel for each side that is long enough to stick out about 1/4 of an inch. Take the hose clamp, square it off with a pliars so it wraps around the corners of the coupler, and tighten it down. The coupler will be solid as new, last a long time, cost about 3 bucks to fix, and new bushings can now be installed in less than 5 minutes, if needed, while the coupler is in the car. After 1000+ miles, mine still works perfectly and shows no signs of wear.....

Laugh all you want, it was cheap, easy, and very reliable. The quick change bushings make it better than new, in my opinion.....

Morrie

ron69912t · 10-09-2003, 07:26 AM

Morrie:
You are the original "Rube Goldberg" (compliment). If I get into a coupler removal situation I will consider your suggestion.

Thanks again.

Ron D

Morrie · 10-09-2003, 07:32 AM

I can send you a piece of dowel if you want it... I have a whole handle....

I have such a small budget I need to put the dollars where they make sense.

Did you guys know that an old CV boot fits perfectly in place of the outer shift coupler boot? It practically 'snaps' inside the lip on the tunel opening and a simple tywrap secures it to the tranny... you just need to take a knife and cut off the small shaft end lip..... free instead of 40 bucks, nobody sees it, and it works perfectly.

Morrie

ron69912t · 10-10-2003, 04:46 AM

Couldn't wait for the weekend so I tackled the shift rod bushings and coupler busings replacement last night.

I discovered the shift rod bushing and support ring bushing were in great shape and were made of the black poly?? plastic. There was no slop in the ball cap bushing. The PO must have changed them not long ago.

The coupler bushings were definately worn. I used my trusty Dremel tool with a thin cut off abrasive disc to mark the clamp position on the rod end of the coupler. The rod is hardened steel and hard to scratch but the Dremel did a good job.

I used two different sockets and my vise to push out the pin and the same to push it back in place after I changed the two bushings. Put everything back together and will test drive it tonight to check the gear selection etc. But the shift rod is free of slop with a nice firm movement.

Thanks for all your help.
Ron D

Morrie · 10-10-2003, 06:59 AM

The socket trick is pretty cool, isn't it. Beats (pun) the keck out of hammering it out and bending things. The Vise gives you lots of control. Congrats on your success!!!

Morrie

eki912 · 10-10-2003, 01:23 PM

One trick for all of you !

When replacing the coupler bushings , put the bigger unit in a hot water for a while. Hot or warm to make it expand.

Put the tight pin in a freezer for a while.Makes it smaller.

Mine went in really easy. Used the vise too to push it in.And the right size socket.Childs play.....

e k i

Morrie · 10-10-2003, 04:34 PM

Good thinkin man- works with wheel bearings too!

ron69912t · 10-13-2003, 04:35 AM

I took the car for a long drive and was amaized how well it shifts with new coupler bushings. The shift lever is firm and moves through the gears with no slop at all. Feels like a new transmission and I dont miss a gear. I didn't know how bad it was until now.

Thank s for all you help and suggestions.

Ron D