heating/cooling & idle

[ScotMcLean]

Hi! I have a 69 912 that is being tempermental. Mobil One oil and a 14 mile commute and no problems for months. Now:

1) mechanical fuel pump allows gas to evaporate/escape requiring "pumping" w/pedal to get gas to carbs.

2) idle starts rough, then after a minute's driving, climbs to 1800 and hold steady (used to run at 800/900.

3) temp guage shows quick heating (to middle of guage, then very slow creep) after 10 minutes driving after never getting above the white block, L side (winter time in AZ, 60/70 - summers don't count).

Is the distrbutor & timing the source of the quick warm up? Availabitiy of fuel a contributinging issue? Any feedback appreciated.

[flouese]

For item #3, check belt tension and oil level. On my 66 912 if low in oil, quickly heats up. If belt slightly loose, heats up pretty quickly. GHood luck. Have you any experience in generator hub removal? If so, please see my post from 01-09-01 FRED

[ScotMcLean]

Thanks for your reply. I have changed the oil (although the old oil wasn't very old) again + filter, using Mobil 1 synthetic as always, changed the belt with a new one, and taken off the rainguard (little need in southern AZ). It heats less quickly now but I haven't had a chance to really run it.

The smell of gas is in the garage now, and after removing and replacing the fuel pump and all hoses (behind the shroud included) plus checking the carb gaskets for obvious leaks, there is stil the faint odor of gas. I thought perhaps a carb rebuild was in order.

It takes a fair amount of pumping to get gas to the carb and get the car started if it has sat for a week, but starts up first try if you try once a day once using it. Let it sit and the gas smell is gone after two days, and again you have to pump to get gas to the carbs.

Any ideas?

[Jones Low]

The pumping and smell of raw gasoline may indicate a leak in your fuel line (over night it drains out thus the required pumping). Check the rubber gas lines in the following:

1. Front from the tank. You'll have to raise car and remove the front metal panel that covers the steering assembly. There is a rubber hose from gas tank to metal tubing. Check/change rubber hose and clamps.

2. Behind tunnel and above transmission is also a rubber fuel hose that connects the metal tube coming from out of the tunnel to the metal tubing to engine compartment. Check/change rubber hose and clamps.

3. In the engine compartment there are several places: hoses from supply to inline filter, inline filter to fuel pump, fuel pump to left side carb distribute lines. In back of fan housing is a short rubber line that connects left side carb distribute line with right side. This one gets missed a lot since you can't see it (sounds like you know about that one already).

Other possiblities: leaky gas tank, bad hoses in your overflow/vaper recovery system located in front trunk, leaky gasket on your fuel gauge sender, and leak in filler hose (a rather large diameter hose inside of trunk that connects the gas tank to filler).

Jones Low
69-912

[ScotMcLean]

Thanks! Good advice & info I haven't found in any of the manuals, including the original maroon factory one. I assumed the lines from the tank to engine were metal, like the main sections of the brake lines. I'll go after #1 & #2 and replace it all. Given the 32 years, I bet at least one of the interior lines is shot.

[josh912]

Having to pump the gas after the car has been sitting for a week is very common. The carb floats, if not adjusted absulutely perfectly, drain thus you having to pump more gas into them. If the drain slowly, as in your case, your best to leave the carbs alone until you need a rebuild as its not a major problem.