head reassembly/oil preferences

[Jim68912]

I could use the advice of a smart guy/girl who has had their head apart...the reassembly is taking place and I'm at the stage where the supports which sit below the rocker arm assemblies (y'know the ones which have the star patterned slots to accomodate the bolt heads on the rocker assembly?) are ready to go back in.

The problem is that there is a square shouldered washer which goes in first, I guess to ensure proper height/spacing on the rocker assembly. I don't have enough of them to fill all the spaces. I also have a hard to read sheet which calls for, what appears to be two different sizes (thicknesses?) of washer.

Can anyone (A) take me through the reasoning for these things use in the motor and (B) advise me as to what they are called and where I can get them if I need them.

Also....what break in oil do folks recommend, and what day to day oil do you all use for these air cooled beauties?

Thanks,
Jim

[Sweetheart912]

Jim, I think what your are refering to are head bolt washers. There is to be only ONE washer per head bolt. They are circular. There should be 16 total. They are used to evenly seat the rocker stands, provide correct valve train geometry for rockers & pushrods, & some (the wide hat ones) provide an oil seal for the heads. If omitted, the bolts will "bottom out" without the washer and cause leakage from a bad seal, etc etc & worse!
356 B thru 912 have the same heights of head bolts, but 356 A models are exactly one head bolt washer longer. A's do not use head bolt washers. Make sure you know what you have...get the correct ones if you dont have em.

I have measured bunches of the washers over the years and nominally they are a thou or so the same dimension. Parts books I saw always had one number for head bolt washers thru 912. VW's use them also, but are thicker and larger in diameter, YET I have found VW ones"whittled" on & stuffed into 356/912 motors. Most parts dealers have head bolt washers for a few bucks, but always check the dimensions of the new ones so they are within a few thou of what you have.

SOMETIMES, these boys stay wedged in the head, even during cleaning etc. Stick a magnet down each hole-if it "pulls" you have one stuck there-either get it out or mark the hole so you know its there during reassembly. Lay out 8 head bolt washers per head! Never use two per hole, as it will crack your stand and your valve adjustment will always be "screwey"...and worse!

Hope this helps, Cheers.

[Jim68912]

thanks for the good advice and quick response. Got any thoughts about break in oil and the right day to day oil?

Jim

[Sweetheart912]

Sure Jim, anytime. You will get different opinions, but select the oil range right for your climate after you have broken the engine in.

I have used this sequence and it always worked for me. For break in, I run the new motor on straight 30wt for about 5 mins at @ 2k rpm,shut off then drain the oil. Check valve lash again, and if no leaks on the engine or evil humors in the drained oil, I run for the first 250 miles on straight 30 wt. Vary speeds during break in-don't "lug" the motor & dont be afraid to redline it either for short durations. Drain at 250 miles, adjust valves, then I fill with Castrol 20w-50. Drain again at 500 miles, check valve adjustment then refill with 20w-50 and then consistently run 20-50 thereafter. I also change the filter at each of these points mentioned above. My $.02.
Cheers.