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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 43
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912 Wanted
It is now time for me to put away my GTIs, my MGs, and my Z's and come before this forum to ask for a 912...
I have $3000 (or a little more) to spend on the car for which I am not expecting concours quality - or even carport quality. If it is in DC Metro Area all that much better but I will drive to pick up the right one - or wait until April when I can make it out to California. Let me know through this forum or by e-mailing me. Until I hear from prospective sellers I'll continue searching eBay, Hemmings, Collector Car Trader, the 912 Registry, etc... Thanks for you time, I'll thank you later for your car, Keith |
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 189
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Your lucking if you get a car that runs for 3,000.This cars are getting harder to come by.It's not that easy!Be more specific in what your looking for,If your want a car you can a least take it around the block,that's going to cost you at least 6 to 7 thousand.The mechanical operation of the car is always going to be important,I spent over 10,000 dollars on my car(just mechanical operation)And it only had 80,000 original miles,when i bought it.But i can take my car anywhere i want.So if you get one(912) It's a continuous investment,in order to enjoy.This cars are not cheap.
Art |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 43
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Art,
Thanks for the suggestion - I've lived aboard and restored sailboats so I understand the concept of pouring money into a vast cavernous hole in order to make the object of our affection (or is it affliction)... In order to be more specific... I am looking for a car that runs (obviously), however, I've turned a wrench or two so I am not adverse to having to work on the engine, brakes, electrical, what have you. Prefer a solid body, but will do so body work but prefer to stay away from suspension and jack points. If I could find an ugly (cosmetically) with some rust but running car that would be my choice. Keith |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: arlington,va USA
Posts: 180
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Keith
Bought 912 very good cond in 2000 for $4,700 then sold this year for $3000. Running, very good cond. IN the Arlington, Falls Church area. GoodLuck Brett
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PtCruiser 03burb 4Kids Best 356/912 Shop I found on the East Coast: TimBerardelli Racing 703.461.3436 Long and Gone: 610 Boss302 41coupe XKE 240z Sqback 2002 912 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 43
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Brett,
Reminds me of my days surfing when I'd oft be told..."Dude, you shoulda been here yesterday." LOL...anyways, I keep looking at Cars.com and another of the online sites, as well as paying attention to several forums...I might just put off my purchase until April when I can go out to California and have a few to choose from (or so it would seem)...but I am not without hope in these matters. Thanks for the encouragement. Keith |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,417
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Here's a couple in Texas that belong to a guy in my group.
http://www.912bbs.org/index.php?a=thread&p=81102 Morrie
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68 912 Coupe, 76 914 2.0 backdated, 76 912E SR Coupe" Gone but remembered- 76 911S SR Coupe "The Clown Car", 89 944S2 SR Coupe, 76 912E "Green Rat", 67 912 outlaw, 68 912 Coupe, 87 924S |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: san mateo, ca
Posts: 261
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The most common rust spots for the 912 are, unfortunately, in the front suspension and jacking points. The front "pan", which holds the gas tank, the spare, and the front suspension, often rusts because it also holds the battery. The second worst rust spot is under the rear window (esp. at the corners), caused by a bad rear window seal. Fixing this usually requires some reconstruction of the window area. The other common rust spots are fairly easy to repair, esp. if you can weld.
Trying to find even a nice shell outside California for $3000 will be quite difficult. Many, if not most, of the cars came here originally. I'd wait until April and continue to save until then. It's much easier to find a reasonable car in the $5-8K range, which will run a lot less money to fix up to a nice standard than the $3-4K cars. If you do decide to buy in California, the best place to check is www.craigslist.org/car. There's a $3000 '67 in San Bruno (near SFO airport) right now. There are four other cars (three '67s and a '69) for sale, as well, all for under $8000. The '69 is in Sacramento (two hours NE of San Francisco), the others are within a hour of SF. |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 43
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Reality
I think I've come to that reality as well - which is not a bad reality to come to...waiting until April and wandering off to Cali to pick up a nice car...
Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll keep my eyes peeled until then. Thanks, Keith |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: shreveport, louisiana
Posts: 2
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Common Interests...
Keith,
I noticed that you have done the live-aboard thing... I used to keep a sailboat moored in Detroit and used it often as a 'motel' when the hours at work made my 92 mile (EACH way) commute too painful to endure... Funny thing is, I am returning to Motown next spring and I want to find another boat to throw money at, and I will likely end up selling my 1969 912 to do so. She is VERY corrosion free, and pretty much stock except for the 40 IDF's and some sort of Bursch style exhaust. 105,000 original miles with an rebuild at 75,000. Ideally, I am looking for a mid-30's length sailboat with a steel hull (yawl or ketch rig would be nice) and a Scandanavian style transom...but the only thing I am firm on is the steel hull. A shot in the dark to be sure, but any chance you have a boat of that ilk to trade? Regards, Doug |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 43
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Doug,
Sadly my feet have been dry for the past four months and even worse, I had been living on a beautiful Rhodes-Seafarer 28'9" that might have fit your wants and needs...the only reason I am pursuing a Porsche is that I actually have a garage to work on one for a while (which is a rarity indeed for me) so while my feet remain dry I will indulge another of my passions and that is cars. Keith |
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I think I got a helluva steal then. I paid 1800 for mine (a 67). I drove it home from where I bought it, which was about a 45 minute ride. It was fine on the freeway and everything. I got it home, did an oil change, valve adjust, new plugs. It had brand new webers, pretty nice paint (has scratches and a couple of small chips), pretty straight body. It has rust. The passenger floor pan is pretty rotted and needs replacing. The drivers side isnt too bad with two holes about the size of a silver dollar. The jack points are rusty and the longs have some surface rust. One of the suspension points needs patchwork as well, but thats nothing I cant fix with a welder. All in all, I got a 912 that runs well, a fairly complete car (complete interior), nice straight body, some rust, and a tired suspension and brakes for $1800 cash. Sorry, its not for sale
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'73 914-4 with 2056 '67 912 with wet paint (SOLD) '96 GTI VR6 |
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 189
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rust is a killer
Sounds like you got a rust bucket.i can buy the same car tomorrow,but i don't want one, your car will never be worth much.Not unless you invest over 20,000 dollars.Then maybe?No sense in fixing the suspension until you fix all the rust.If you plan to fix all the rust,you'll have to strip the car entirely.Then there's no sense in installing the old interior,also if you strip it down and fix all the rust,the next common move would be to paint it?Any body can own what you have,people are missing the point.(just being honest)
Art |
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Who wants one,let me know.Save your money and buy a decent 912.
Here's a picture of a decent 912 that was for sale(for 8,000). Art ![]() |
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Re: rust is a killer
Quote:
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'73 914-4 with 2056 '67 912 with wet paint (SOLD) '96 GTI VR6 |
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Quantum Mechanic
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What it costs - really
I read thru all this and after 2 years of 912 ownership I would suggest that you not even consider purchasing a car for 3000. There are stories of people paying less than that and maybe a few of them have had enjoyable ownership experiences. But the reality is that these cars are VERY maintenance intensive, parts can be expensive, and you need to ask yourself if you are willing to spend the time required to get a $3000 into shape so you can drive it and enjoy it.
The other question is this - if you have an engine problem, the spare parts situation - especially cylinder heads, bearings, cranks, and a few other things - is such that you can easily spend $3000 on a "cheapie" engine rebuild - and then have to do it again 5000 miles later because there was a problem. It HAS happened. Do you really want to put that kind of money into a car with obvious rust issues ? By far your best strategy is to buy the best car you can possibly afford, so you have something that's worth fixing AND you can take advantage of the generally rising market value of these cars. Good examples can be had for $8000 if you look around. I would say April is the WORST time to buy - that's when the pre-summer prices are highest. I paid 10 grand for my car and I've put about that much into it - rebuilt engine, suspension, brakes, etc. It's a delight to drive but requires constant tinkering. Parts are expensive and are likely to get more so, because of the increased popularity of the 912 and late 356 Porsches that use the same engine. There are a few exceptions but in general if you only have 3000 bucks to play with, consider something else because a 912 at that price will not be good enough to make you happy. After you've spent $4000 on your $3000 car, you'll find you need to spend another $5000 to turn it into the car you really should have bought in the first place... http://www.petry.org/pics/babe9.htm Just my opinion... Mark Petry Bainbridge Island, WA |
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There a man that knows what he's talking about.
When i said, sounds like you got a rust bucket, to mattr 914.I wasn't trying to be an assh@le,I'm just trying to help people out.I just think it's not the way to go.If i offend one person,to help ten others,then it was worth it. Life is good,Art |
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20 grand on rust repair? Thats such a rediculous exaggeration you wont be helping people. You can buy all the panels you want from restoration design for common rust for a LOT less then that. And if you have a MIG welder, some know how, and a few weekends you can have a car that is virtually rust free.
What was offensive was: "i can buy the same car tomorrow,but i don't want one, your car will never be worth much" That is not helpful to anyone. And you've never seen my car, so GO TO HELL! I got my 912 to get me around until my 914 comes off stands, then the 912 goes up. Its a project car. But I do all my own work and Im smart with my money (as ive been on my 914 and other cars ive done in the past). If you pay someone to work on your car then I'd agree, but if you dont mind getting your hands dirty I'd have to disagree with you mpetry.
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'73 914-4 with 2056 '67 912 with wet paint (SOLD) '96 GTI VR6 |
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Goo,
Just surfing the boards, saw your search... BEWARE! I also switched from LBC's (Mini's,MG's, Triumphs) to Porsche (bought a 944). I was shocked by the difference in mechanical skill and parts cost from what we were used to doing. My 944 is now done, but I spend probably twice to three times what it cost me to restore a similiar mini restore. For example, windshield washer motor $79 Porsche vs $19 MGB. Paid 2500 for the 944 (vs 3k for the mini), put 7500 into the 944 (vs 5k into the mini) for a 944 in near perfect condition now worth 7k vs a driver level mini worth worth 14k. Maybe the 912's carry more value when completed, that I do not know, but you are in for a surprise the first time you go to make a repair and find out that a "special" Porsche tool is required and which, of course, is more expensive than the repair bill itself! Porsche are GREAT cars... I'm glad I finished mine, but BEWARE... these are not little british (or Jap) sports cars! By the best 912 you can afford.... Bart |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 527
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There are some decent deals out there still though.
I think the moral we're trying to get to is that your average $3000 912 will have some big trouble. Your average $6000 912 will probably be 'decent' , meaning not terminal in any way, probably running, paint will be 'okay', may need minor rust repair- floors or front pan? So, start with a $3000 car and put $3000 into it. Do you have that average $6000 car? Probably not considering the cost of engine parts, brake parts, and a little rust repair. DEFINITELY NOT if you have to pay someone shop rate to fix even 1 of those things. I find that alot of the advice we get at these BBS's is worst case scenerio- most people think that a $3000 912 is a parts car simply because it's not up to their standards or they're not up to the task it takes to make it roadworthy again. So, go shopping and be your own judge. Take the advice here with a 'grain of salt' - not too literally. My 912 was $3000, and I have about $6500 into it- but it is now rock solid, with great original interior, 2 sets of Fuchs, an 'overhauled engine', perfect tranny, perfect brakes, working gas heater- and more. The catch is the 500 hours I have personally put into it in the last 9 months. But, hey, that's what I do! Good luck with the search, you'll find something. Bob O
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If it aint broke.. ... ... .fix it anyway. |
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Well said Bob. I totally agree with that. I just dont think cars should be catagorized as a "$xxxx car". I paid what I paid for mine and that doesnt necessarily mean it runs like crap. I know why the PO sold it for the price, but my engine runs strong, trans shifts well, and (now) it brakes and steers properly. It has rust, but I know where it is and its all fixable. The paint isnt too bad, but again... what car doesnt need paint? It has a straight body, etc. Its not a new car. But then again, Ive never owned a new car.
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'73 914-4 with 2056 '67 912 with wet paint (SOLD) '96 GTI VR6 |
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